I got an 84 Z/28 H.O. I plan to drive it daily and race it on the weekends. I have just put a "mild" 425 horse 383 in it. It is not a T-TOP car. Can the stock frame handle that? Do I need subframe connectors, torque arms, or other frame goodies on it?

 

SFC, subframe connectors are a MUST for any 3rd gen, especially if you increase the power output.

as for the suspension, with it all original and stock, you will most likely have pretty bad traction and wheel hop. Replacing the rear lower control arms and using relocation brackets for them will help. also a panhard bar, adjustable if you are messing with the ride height and a good crossmember mounted torque arm will help a lot. It removes the torque arm form the trans tailshaft, though it can be a pain if you plan to run Lt headers. Look at UMI performance, Spohn performance, or BMR fabrication for these parts.

 

What are lower control arm relocation brackets, and panhard bar? This is my first hotrod and I'm learning as I go. I have Hotchkis weld-in subframe connectors, and an Edelbrock torque arm that does mount to the trans. I haven't had them installed yet though. I also have my local powertrain shop putting an Eaton limited slip dif in the rearend. I'm running 265/35 zr 18's street tires. I doubt the car will actually see a dragstrip more than once or twice. There isn't a strip near me so legal drag racing is a pain. It is gonna see a lot of the "stoplight gran-prix" though. Think I'll have those problems with this set up? Do I need to do more? Whats most important between the two? I'm trying to get just what I need and nothing extra. I'm on a tight budget.

 

these are lower control arm relocation brackets (LCARB's)
http://www.umiperformance.com/produc...ategory_id=108
they bolt, or preferably weld to the control arm ounts on the axle, they allow you to increase the angle of the arm for increased traction.

Panhard bar is the bar that runs parallel to the axle, its right behind it, get down under the car and have a look. It keeps the axle centered in the car. the bushing tend to wear out and leaves you with slop back there.

The edelbrock torque arm is not much better than the stock piece, its probably a little stiffer, but nothing major. It will work ok, but remember to change the rubber mount for it that is located on the trans, to a poly one. The stock mount is probably shot anyway.

Most important, get the subframe connectors (SFC) installed. the are a must for any thirdgen.

The factory rear control arms are very flimsy. You can box them with some flat stock and use poly bushings, or go aftermarket.

The make sure shocks and struts and in good working order, as well as tires.

 

not to be an ****, but what good is that HP if you cant get it to the pavement.


I've spent about 3000 on upgrades for my 92 rs 5.0, and havent touched the engine at all, YET. that will be last.

efficiency of power transfer. . . before I started "hacking" at the 'maro, I squirreled up and read for days on end. every thing I read pretty much said start with the suspension and work from there. I'm sure you know way more than i do if youre tinkering with stroked motors. Spend the money and get the subframe connectors, lower control arms and panhard, a torque arm, and all new front end (centerlink, idler arm, tie rods, balljoints, swaybarz, etc) hell, both my right strut/shock were blown...and someone had put spring spacers in there--=--handled pretty good, ha! just my 2cent$

 

Dude, you know way more than I do! The stroker I have is the first engine that I have ever built. I had a friend walk me through it, but he's a dodge guy and knows nothing about camaros. I need all the help that I can get. I know he has a badass big block in his challenger with no frame mods and its fine so I was suprised to find out that I might need that stuff. I knew jack about the mechanical side of cars untill I started this one. This car was baught principally to teach myself how to hotrod a car. It wasn't untill I did some reading that I bought the torque arm. Right know the car is at a shop getting exhaust run and the subframe connectors installed. ( I can't weld or I'd do it myself) Last night I ordered trailing arms and a panhard rod. The front suspension is next.
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I want to thank you guys for the advise. You taught me a good bit, but I have another question. My car has the ten bolt rearend. I'm getting an Eaton limmited slip and new axles. My question is, will 84 disc brakes fit on my drum brake rearend? What does that conversion intail? Remember, I'm a novice at this stuff, can't weld, and am on a tight budget. Should I tackle this?

 

not much to the brake upgrade to rear discs... you'll need the calipers, a proportioning valve and rims that will fit--your stocks might work, I dunno. there are specs on what 3rd gens came with rear discs.

If youre going through all that trouble, I'd suggest upgrading the rearend to a 4th gen rearend... get one out of a 99+ as it will have the aluminum disc brakes already, larger rotor, etc... and get one out of a ls1 6spd car, and the gears will be 3.42 with a zexel-torsen posi in it---no clutches to burnout of the carrier... it's a pretty wicked looking carrier/ring/pinion. I'm doing that right now--thought about brake and carrier/gears upgrade, but **** on all that work... getting everything lined back up inside seems like a lotta work---never tried it though. got a 40000 mile 4th gen transam that had most all the specs I wanted... less work too.

search the boards, there'll be more info on it... the only downfall is that the 4th gen rear will stick out of the fender well about 0.5".... not too bad, with a spacer set on the front wheels, it looks like it grew there. the 7.625's arent that great, but will take moderate abuse... dont expect 500hp /640tq launches to make it last long. but they're good. if you've got the money and plan on building a monster, there are aftermarket hardcore rearends.... but they're expensive---but stronger than all get out. moser, dana, etc all have some rears 12", so on. the ebrake cable is a pain on the 4th gen rear swap too, and you'll need 16" rims to clear the calipers. Find a 3channel rearend (without traction control) to keep flaring to a minimun as you'll have to "T" the rear brake lines together if you get a 4channel rear.. might be referred to as a 2channel/3 channel, but I think its 3 and 4. everything else mates right up---springs, rear suspension, torque arm, driveshaft, etc.

hope that helps