Will the Edelbrock strut tower brace for TBI cars work in a V6 with a 4-bbl carb setup?

 

Not sure, but I like the Edelbrock one the best because it is square tube instead of round... looks better... I believe its 3 point also...

BUT, if not sure just get a TDS Wonderbar... supposedly better than STB, and easy to put in...

 

it should , but there is an age problem . #5226 fits 87-92 tbi , its round . # 5227 for tpi with small mods should fit any year , its square . i have had both , i think the #s are correct . i may have them reversed ???

 

I checked out www.edelbrock.com and the 5227 is for TBI or carb V8's.

I also went out to the car and taped a line between the fenders that passed over the forward inboard studs of the upper strut mount. The line passed right over the rear edge of the alternator, right over the top of the a/c compressor, and over the snout of the V6's stock air cleaner snorkel.

Based on the picture of the 5227, the configuration is unsuitable for use on a V6. I would have to shorten my alternator, bore a hole through the compressor, and cut the snout off the snorkel and weld it back on upside down. I think it would be easier to install my little 327 instead.

I shall consider the Wonder Bar idea as an alternative. I've seen pictures of the thing and I'm still trying to figure out how it works. It looks simple enough to fabricate at the hangar.

 

The Wonderbar is a GM BandAid introduced to strengthen the steering box area of IROC's and their 16" wheels. It wasn't then the performance part that it seems to have become in recent years. Most drivers, in a blind test, wouldn't know if the Wonderbar were installed or not. Still, it's a good preventive.

JamesC

 

Here is a pic of mine if that helps you out a little better to get an idea.

 

Here is a pic of mine. They don't reinforce the area around the strut towers, but it's a good idea if you run 16s or bigger... I'm pretty sure it's a good idea on any of these cars lol. I have the wonder bar, and I'm planning to get a Edlebrock STB as well.

 

The Edelbrock 3-pt. can be seen in my Car Details below.

JamesC

 

id have to agree with OP.

Just by "eye-ing" it, you can see that the pulleys of the accessories are pretty much in line with the front of the inner fenders towards the top. ie: if you held a wooden beam from side to side along the top of the inner fenders (where the strut towers mount) it will hit the pulleys on a V6 engine. See pic.

http://www.fernfactorypictures.com/c...o_engine_m.jpg

Conversely, if you look at the posted pic above, the strut tower brace on the picture posted above, the strut brace follows a strikingly similar pattern. I would second the notion that it will interfere.

However, if you are able to modify it, i dont think it would be too much trouble to move the front of the brace forwards a couple of inches. Or heck, even make a new brace yourself. Shouldnt be too hard.

 

You car underhood is only about 1232.339 times cleaner than mine.
But looking at those, it makes me wonder how they'd fit with my old-style J&M strut mounts.

 

I have Spohn Strut mounts, fits just fine.

 

Great pic from 91 Camaro. I think the bar would clear the V6 compressor and alternator if it was mounted upside down and the firewall bracket was relocated.

Then it would hit the bottom of the hood for sure!

But if I built or bought an IMSA style hood like Dingman Bros. used on their Firebirds, it would clear. This wouldn't be such a bad idea styling-wise since my car already has IMSA style fenders.

But then it would be a paper tiger with the little V6 under such a ferocious exterior. So it would make more sense to install one of my mouse motors so the car would walk the walk as well as talk the talk.

Then I would not have to mount the bar upside down or modify it.

Yadda-yadda-yadda!!! This is a typical never-ending hot rodder story. Haha!

I would like to thank everybody for their input. I am no closer to a solution but my brain is now more crowded with ideas, which I like. Being a realist, I realize one of the solutions is no solution at all, i.e. no STB.

 

Maybe UMI's STB will work

 

The old J&M's are made different

 

I definitely noticed when I put mine on, and I already have alot of suspension upgrades.

 

I stand by my statement.

JamesC

 

To krisb410 :

Thanks for that pic! That UMI bar certainly looks like it'll work. Who supplied the unit?

 

UMI, they are having a group Purchase right now!

 

I'm not ready to participate in a group buy right now. Is there a website where I can view UMI's various products? I've Googled them and got no hits.

 

http://www.umiperformance.com/

 

Thanks for the URL, 86TA! Greatly appreciated! UMI's webmaster needs to do something to improve results for potential customers. Perhaps I will drop them a note to this effect.

 

Does the Edelbrock STB work with the Dual snorkel setup for L69 Camaro?

 

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If you have AC, the driver's side compressor will interfere, so no--I doubt the ducts would fit either.

JamesC

 

IIRC, the Edelbrock blurb specifically stated that it would not work with the dual snorkel.

 

Yup! Here it is; cut and pasted from www.edelbrock.com:

1982-92 Camaro/Firebird V8 with Throttle Body Injection or carburetor (fits vehicles with A/C compressor on passenger side, will not fit dual snorkel air cleaner) #5227

 

hey how come the Edelbrock 5226 strut tower brace wont fit on the formula firebirds

 

i believe i read that it had something to do with the firebirds underhood bracing. im not 100% on that ive never dealt with firebirds.

 

thanks but what i dont get is it will work for the firebird coupe and trans am but not the forumlas which is weird cause their not that different in construction at least i think

 

i dont really know either, the formula has the raised part on one side and the TA or firebird doesnt right? i've read many people modifying the pieces that mount to the strut towers because they are thin and flex

 

Anyone know if these are bolt on, or need to be welded in?

 

Bolt-in.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...-3-pt-stb.html

JamesC

 

thanks

 

Four years after I started this thread I finally have a QA1 (formerly Edelbrock) 5227 STB mocked up in the car.

In order to get the brackets to sit flush on top of the strut towers, the stock shock mounts are almost all the way inboard and all the way back, making for lots of negative camber and positive caster. There is very little room for adjustment.

Descriptions of various aftermarket caster/camber plates tout additional caster adjustment so maybe maximum caster with stock shock mounts is not such a bad thing. Lots of negative camber might be good for a track car but mine will be primarily a street machine.

Has anyone trimmed their stock shock mounts to allow for more adjustments with the 5227's brackets installed?

 

In order for my Founders strut mounts to fit (with the Edelbrock already installed), the Founders base plate required trimming.

JamesC

 

Thanks, James!

 

The bores in the strut tower ends of the QA1 5227 STB are 12 mm or a hair over 29/64" i.d. The bolts supplied in the kit are 3/8" and so are the slots in the strut tower brackets. That makes for an awful lot of wiggle room in a device designed to maximize rigidity.

Should I:

a. install 3/8" i.d. bushings in the bores to eliminate play?
b. use 12 mm bolts and either modify the supplied brackets or fabricate new brackets?
c. install the brace with the supplied hardware and oversize bores?

 

I came across the problem of the STB limiting the possible position of my aftermarket founders strut mounts too. I refused to grind the strut mount, so instead I notched the STB bracket and then welded another piece of steel to the bracket on the inside to ort of box it in and add strength. Then I just cut a rectangular piece of steel and installed it under the bracket in the wheel well to add more support. Overkill, but I feel better now.

 

Based on the paint patterns left behind on top of the strut towers after removing the strut mounts, maintaining the previous caster setting will not be a problem with the stock brackets. However, the brackets do limit camber adjustment. I intend to trim the brackets as much as possible and the strut mounts as little as possible in order to allow a decent amount of adjustment.

My concern now is that the bolts supplied have way too much play in the bores of the strut tower ends of the brace. The simplest solution I've come up with is to bush the bores so I have a nice close fit for the 3/8" bolts they supplied. I'm also considering upping the bolt size to 10 mm for the sake of metric uniformity.

 

Posting some pics of what I did with the Strut tower brace' brackets. I ended up making my own out of thicker steel and welded in a plate on the front. Then Cut out a small portion to clear the strut tower in all possible directions. The bracket is very strong even with the metal remove for clearance. I even did one bracket where I just welded in the front metal for support and that was probably plenty.

 

Thanks for posting the pics, Tibo. I had a similar idea and all inputs are welcome.