Mr Froman

-I think you'd want to worry about correct pinion angle more with a daily driver because it will cause noise under loads and possibly premature bearing failure. With a race car you are setting it to compensate for axle windup.

-You have a limited amount of camber that you can adjust to make up for the lowering springs. You should be okay with the pro series. I've had my car up on the rack after I put in the eibach pro kit and was able to put camber, caster, and toe within spec.

91slpz

i was wondering if there is a thread on how to install the bags on a 3rd gen fbody. if anyone out here can tell me what they used to mount the bags on the frame rails and how they did it that would be awsome as i have a bag kit i got off my brother. it was his spare set up from his s10 he ended up not using. any help would be appreciated. i was thinking using bolt in bag cups would be easiest just have to drill a hole through the sub frame. let me know what you guys think. thanks for the help

91slpz

nevermind i finally found the info i was looking for and the only thing i could use from this set up is the air management.

Trevmust

If i buy the hotchkis handling kit do i have to use the provided springs?

Mr Froman

I don't think it is necessary. I believe the lowered springs are just provided to improve handling.

Trevmust

K cuz from the way ppl talk about it, it sounds like lowering is just a pain in the keister.

Ryan3834me

If Sportlines aren't a racing spring, you've lost me! They are one of the highest rates you can find, and barely friendly to even Konis. Can you cite this dialog with Eibach?

dgrejtest

Hi,

I've been searching the board, but didn't find the answer...

Anybody tried to fit Vogtlands or Eibachs on V6?

Previous owner of my car cut original springs too much, so when I lift the car, they fall out (well, allmost).
I'm from Europe, so it's hard to get any springs, even stock... :S Only Vogtlands are on german ebay... The shipping from US costs more than springs...

Any advice?

Ryan3834me

Your V6 car is identical in every way to V8 car. The only change would be the stance.

I've not heard of anyone putting the 'sport' spring or struts on a v6 car. Maybe try a Turbo Trans Am site (1989 TTA). The ride of sport spring and sport lines is quite stiff! But controlled. You may be in for a shock if you go with them. Factory V6 setup is soft compared to stock WS6. If I were you... Maybe consider the 'touring' spring and shock setup from Eibach and Koni and cut fronts for stance.

If you do lower, you should strongly consider Adujustable tie rod ends. You can raise the pivot point on the spindle with them to help bumpsteer.

dgrejtest

Thanks for the answer.

I've had hard suspension on my cars... so I know what is hard... But this... I'd say it has no suspesion (well, maybe 1,5 inches). The front is so fu**ed up, that the tire rubs on the inner fender (i don't know the exact english word for it) - and yes, the plastic fenders were allready taken out..

After searching the board I think i'll try Vogtland's as they are the only available/affordable option... And we'll see from there.

Stance is secondary problem right now. I'd like some more drivability first.

I'll report.

plum92_camaro

I've spent alot of time reading the suspension board and reading the search result threads that come up about eibach springs as those were my first choice and i couldn't decide between the pro-kit and sport lines. So many mixed opinions (although all very creditable) I was less sure than when i started(and ended up researching lots of brands) Of the eibach people it seems that those with the pro-kit all love the ride but the complaints are "its not low enough", or "I didn't even notice a difference". and some pics IMHO supported these statements. The sport line people are a mixed crowd, they either love them or hate them. the complaints i read were mostly about them being too low, or too soft in the rear or "kept hitting the bump stops". I called eibach and got the spring rates (they are on here but sometimes its best for me to hear it from the source).Here is what they gave me.
Prokit front:714 linear, Rear 109-177 progressive
Sportline front:700 linear, Rear: 80-137 progressive

So trying to stick just to eibach springs here, the question i would like to propose to ya'll is; If your going to use eibachs wouldn't the best option be to buy the prokit and cut them down to get a lower ride height as that would keep the spring rates up and and eliminate (or at least improve) the usual complaints about the sport lines?

Because I REALLY like to autoX my nice weather cruiser i didn't get the eibachs cause of this dilemma and the progressive rear springs. It took me a several weeks of debating and researching several brands, and considering several different combos from MOOG IROC springs cut down to mixing and matching eibach fronts with Global west S40 rears (190 lb linear) to finally break down and spend the big bucks for ground control weight jacks. They were everything i was looking for (except the price), all linear springs, spring rates i want, and any ride height i want.

I don't claim to have any expertise i just wanted to share my experience so that hopefully it may help somebody else. The "best" springs depends on what purpose you car serves for you. Eibach is a quality product and may be perfect for your 3rd gen. If you ask ten people on here what "the best springs are" you'll get ten different answers.

PS I did look into coil overs and between the fact that that part of the car wasn't made to support the weight and the fact it prevents wider wheels/tires, I decided against them very quickly for my build.

TKR 88 GTA

So plum92_camaro, did the ground control weight jacks you went with require the struts that they ask about when you go tovthe website? I was considering the weight jacks as well but saw that they asked about shocks and struts that cost $750+ alone and that kinda made me shy away from them. What is your set up of? You seem happy with what you've got lol

midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

If you're going to run the weight jacks you'll want to upgrade your struts and strut mounts to spherical bearing, raised mounts and good quality adjustable struts/shock. Stock or old struts and shocks are junk by now and should be replaced immediately regardless of the car's ride height or intended purpose.

With the weight jacks, el grande cheapo struts and shocks don't do a good job of dampening with a high spring rate and wear out quickly, especially if the car is cranked down to sit low.

Weight jacks don't really "require" any special strut or strut mount per say, as they fit in exactly like the factory springs, but I wouldn't run them without decent condition struts/ shocks period and I wouldn't do anything radical with the height or spring rate without using high quality dampers like Tokico Illuminas, Koni Reds/ Yellows, or KYB AGX's... which is the main purpose of getting them. The weight jacks in themselves are pricey so the only way they're really justified is if you're tuning the car carefully for top notch handling or if you're going to run a crazy stance, both of which require good struts and shocks. Otherwise, skip it, buy the best quality dampers your budget will allow and some off the shelf drop springs and call it a day.

plum92_camaro

way better answer than what i was gonna say.

Well i'm defintitely excited about my set up but i don't know how happy i am yet because i haven't installed anything yet due to the longer than normal iowa winter. Like i said i'm no expert but i did a lot of reading to select my parts and i'm continuing to read to learn to set them up properly.

TKR 88 GTA

Thanks midnightfire! A lot of good info and I guess that just steered me away from the weight jacks. My car is a daily driver for the most part and as of right now the car is sitting with its left side sitting a good amount lower than the right side plus the front is higher than the rear because of the new engine set up that lightened up the front end a good amount. So I definitely need new shocks/struts and springs. But I didnt want to lower my car at the same time which got me interested in the weight jacks but im not gonna use the car for any hair pin turning or anything like that just a street and probly strip time once a month. So in that case ill probly just go with an eibach set up with idk what struts and shocks yet lol

And plum92 I feel ya on the longer than normal winter over here in colorado its ridiculous, snow was suppose to stop and then we ended up getting 8" this past weekend lol ive been wanting to do some stuff but nope lol

midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

Yeah the Eibach springs are great! Probably the most popular choices and most people seem to like them. Like I said, shoot for the best shocks and struts you can afford since you usually get what you pay for there. I was dead set on Koni so I rode around on some 20 year old Monroes for a couple of years until I had the cash (Going to college, having a girlfriend who was an expensive date, and working for slave wages sucked!)

Same here in Indiana... did all my research, got all the parts for lowering, had the car out for spring break finally and was JUST about to put all the new stuff on at my buddy's place and then it snowed and they put down salt everywhere and back under the cover it went.

TKR 88 GTA

They have magchloride crap up here that builds corrosion here on everything rims hubs anything aluminum lol my cars my daily too lol I have to research from the struts and shocks available someone told me kyb is a good bang for your buck lol do you already have the koni's lol and midnightfire I feel ya on that last part. I gotta a girlfriend that has no job and a one year old, on top of paying back my college loans on a 13.50/hour job that only gives 30hrs a week lol plus side babies give you a ton on tax returns lmao time to give the gta some much needed attention lol

dgrejtest

I've finally put new shocks and Vogtlands (for V8) on the car. They fit V6 perfectly and the stance is great.

Sorry for bad pic, but this is how it looks:


The car finally drives how it should.

Firechicken355

Just wanted to give you a heads up on lowereing. Even an inch drop will change the geometry of your suspension and require re-alignment of the front and one that isn't mentioned often is the rear lower control arm angle.
You may not notice much of a difference on a "normally" driven car, but if you do burn outs or race it you will find that after lowering you can develop a nasty wheel hop issue. This is bad because it can break parts, like the tailshaft housing of the transmission. I personally beat the snot out of mine and never had a problem until I put another person in the car with me. I just wanted his opinion on how the car ran (never had it on the track) The person with me was my Ford Fan uncle. To make it short, I tached it up and poped the clutch and out of nowhere my car started a violent wheelhop off the line. Thanks to others post, I identified the issue and determined that the 1" lowering springs combined with more angle from the additional 200 lbs of passenger changed the lower control arm angle enough to induce the wheelhop. Apparently these cars are known for this and just to be sure its gets fixed I ordered a heavy duty track arm and transmission crossmember.

blacksunshine'91

iTrader: (10)

What you need are LCARBs, not a heavy duty track arm and tranny crossmember.

Firechicken355

blacksunshine'91
I neglected to mention the relocation brackets. I have those also, but not installed yet. Others have stated the correct lca angle is 3/4" to 1" drop in angle front to rear? But lets face it, the stock LCA's are flimsy stamped sheet metal stampings and so is the torque arm. Ok for a daily driver, but way too much flex for some serious performance. I beat mine like a redheaded stepchild.

manolis1969

MeenZ28

FYI, the link in the first post for the Racecraft drop spindles is not working anymore. The correct link:

http://www.racecraft.com/index.php?m...dex&cPath=7_13

94ElBanditoDeCa

So in other words I wouldn't have the LCA problem if I lower the ride height evenly front and back, compared to having the front slightly lower than the rear.

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

great info in here

mmadden55

The New link to racecraft

http://www.racecraft.com/index.php?m...4ba4bc9ed2c331

wheels777

Is there a 2" drop spindle that uses the OEM brakes available? The Racecraft spindle require adaptor and different discs.

Adrenaline1

iTrader: (1)

So, ive had some belltech drop spindles sitting around for about 5 years now. Since i just bought a house ill have space to actually start working on my car again and had a few questions. Is there anythign in particular i should look out for when installing these? Based on the research i had done in the past and recent searches, everything should be pretty straight forward and drop in. They also work with the stock brakes as long as i didnt miss anything.

nicksavio707

My silver 1985 Camaro IROC-Z with Eibach Sportlines lowering springs. 16" original wheels. Equipped with KYB shocks and a QA1 adjustable panhard bar. The perfect drop, not too much but not too little. Love how it looks and rides.

roper88cars

My Fire mist Red 1987 Trans Am with Eibach Sportlines lowering springs. 16" original wheels. Equipped with stock shocks and a UMI adjustable panhard bar, Subframe connectors, and 383 Stroker. The perfect drop, not too much but not too little. I to love the way it sits and rides.

roper88cars

Forgot the Pictures.

5 speed

That is the stance I'm going for with my 86 IROC.
Did you go with the relocation brackets for the lower control arms? Are you running the stock lower control arms too?
Love your hard top..

SpectroRacing

I'm working with BMR to perfect some new Lowering Springs:

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

Dude, how tall are you?

SpectroRacing

Lol 6'1" usually T-TOPs help, actually going to a racing event tomorrow and upset to hear it might rain, I will have to lay back to fit lol but playing slip and slide will be fun

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

Wow, I was thinking like 6'7", or something.

Get some Fiero seat brackets.

You'll be amazed at how much lower you'll sit

RDPrime

Will Eibach Sportlines be to low for a 92 Z28 with 20" wheels?

85projectZ28

Ok so, two things I am trying to find out that I didn't see.

1. When lowering, are shaved or smaller bump stops required?

2. If adjustable lower control arms are going to be used, are the relocation brackets still required?

potterc32

iTrader: (1)

No to both. The lowering springs are usually stiffer, and don't allow that v much suspension travel. I have yet to hit the bump stops, I'm lowered about 1.7 inches in front and 1.5 in back.

The relocation brackets are meant to solve issues with hop. Not necessary, but if you lower it and start to experience a lot of wheel spin, the brackets could help.

bk2life

Any updates on drop spindles? $800 a pair from raceline seems a bit over kill. My 1 ton dually drop spindles are nearly half that price

lpfeifer1980

One good thing to add is that you may need a bump steer kit when lowering them. Seems like once you lower it more than an inch the car likes to be tossed around the highway if there are any ruts or uneven spots in the road. A little scary the first few times it happens.

Jeff TX

iTrader: (1)

I am the second owner on my car and the original owner put lowering springs on it. I had it in the air the other day and the springs had a code 3801.301. Any idea what springs they are? I assume they are Eibach as they currently have a 3801-140 spring. Is the 3801.301 an out-of-production Eibach spring? Any info on this (e.g. spring rate, lowering height)? I couldn't find anything online and I'd be curious to know. Thanks

Tony V

iTrader: (5)

https://eibach.com/us/i-7388-pro-kit...4-springs.html

firefox7518

I have the 2" drop springs from Detroit Speed Engineering installed in the rear and their weight jacks int eh front. The rear ones are working ok but are too low for me. The UMI torque arm is even hitting the tunnel now under load and the cat converter is constantly touching ground on bigger bumps or even if you want to drive off the street on a parking lot. Also the springs do not have any preload so they do not stay in place when you lift the car on a lift and not by the axle. I kinda don't like that the spring could jump out of the seat on a jump, and yes you can jump on certain streets here in Switzerland. It's a hilly country, haha. Our vehicle inspection will let me fail or actually even impound the car for being dangerous! Because of that and always scarping on the ground make me search for alternatives now.

I also have the Eibach Sportline springs. I first installed them but hey were simply to soft and you always had the feeling that something is bottoming out be it the shock of the bump stops. They were the reason to switch to the DSE ones. They sadly only have 2" drop springs and nothing else. Are the pro lines Eibachs stiffer?

70's iron

Hi

Call me Stupid : I want better cornering springs with Stock height.

My car is a 1983 WS6 T/A, and I consider new UMI springs with 1.0/1.5 inch drop. But I also consider 1992 factory springs, will they mount on a 1983 ? Thx

seanof30306

iTrader: (4)

I put Hotchkiss 1" drop springs on my car when I put 17" Hawks GTA wheels and new tires on it.

I'm pleased with the drop, was hoping the front might settle a bit.

BOY it rides rough though!

Dragster Racer

I wouldnt mind lowering my stock Iroc but dont want to do a ton of mods in case I want to sell it. Everything is original low miles so I would want to be able to convert it back easy.The drop spindles sounds like the best option but I dont see anyone talking about doing it? What are the pros and cons of drop spindles? Original post says using drop spindles allows for no changes to suspension up front.

Jeff TX

iTrader: (1)

Pros - keeps originally designed suspension geometry.

Cons - they’re nearly impossible to find.

that said, you can change your entire suspension out in a day. Keep all the OEM parts. And if you want to sell as an original car, just takes another day to get it back to original.

ahinojos943

If anyone could help me I’d appreciate it so I bought a 90 iroc that came with a 4th gen rear end and am hoping to lower it a little bit, could I just by coil overs for a 3rd gen all around also is there anyone who recommends a certain brand of coil overs something in the median price range ?? Thanks

plum92_camaro

Rear suspension parts are all interchangeable from 82-02. Is there a reason for coil overs? Weight Jacks are ideal for most thirdgens in my opinion. Look to UMI either way.