1988WS6

My motor is basically done for now, besides maybe some new heads. So next I want to redo the suspension entirely. It's not been touched so I think it may be overdo. I'm not looking to lower it, but better handling, cornering and the like. Where do I begin?

BluFBdy

iTrader: (1)

i started with a new set of struts and stut towers, that helped out the handling, woke it up a bit, then i recently installed a polyurethane energy suspension kit, which stiffened it up even more, definitely cut my body roll in half, no more swaying just the familiar side to side wobble like the rear is gonna kick out in the middle of a turn oh and i installed new ball joints

Im putting on thicker sway bars and installing a wonderbar on my RS, cant wait for the results.

Basic list :
Poly bushing kit
shocks/struts
Subframe connectors
Springs (if necessary)

simple refinishing of the suspension to factory standards with new parts will make a difference, the poly kit makes for a rough ride but its a thirdgen, its expected

1988WS6

What brands do you recommend?

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Welcome to TGO. SFC's are the first mod. Period. Everything else can follow. If you wish, check my Car Details below for some ideas.

JamesC

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

There are several threads about this topic. Here are some that might help-

"Lowering/Making an F-body Handle" - something left out in this thread is the need for SFCs. Get those first. I bought mine after all the mods in my sig with the exception of the front brakes and I still noticed an improvement.

"I want better handling!"

Suspension build from scratch.

Reading through those should answer any questions you may have.

1988WS6

How much did you end up spending on the suspension?

1988WS6

Alright looks good. I appreciate it.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Humm, I probably don't want to know, but a couple grand or so, I'd guess.

James

1988WS6

From what I'm reading these seem the first place to start-

1)Shocks/struts
2)Springs/sway bars
3)Control arms

Does this sound right? Also, when looking for control arms do you want do you want to look for?

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

I have spent about $2300 on my suspension, but I have more then what is in my signature (check my VBgarage for a more up to date list).

Stick to either UMI, Spohn, or BMR for most suspension stuff. If you can swing it get the Koni Yellows and then for springs, just don't get the Eibach Sportlines. For lower control arms, you should get rod poly to prevent bind.

I know everyone always says to redo all the bushings then figure out where you want to go with the car, but I disagree. If you know you want to replace something, don't buy the bushings for it since the new part will come with the poly bushings. You'll just be wasting money.

Mike

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

In all honesty if your really going to do everything then before even spending a dime you'll want to have your car on a frame rack this is one thing really over looked by many and its important you can have tons of money into the underside and have a tweaked frame its a fairly cheap investment it doesn't cost much to get it on the rack to be checked out, its when they have to pull the frame back into place and if thats the case you have to make a decision, i had my framed checked out before i did anything i also im going to have it framed again and have sub frames welded on at the same time so it will be 100% straight - sub frames, springs, shocks and sway bars are the bread and butter of handling characteristics

You can also check out my thread
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...-up-start.html

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

SFCs+ install = $340
LCARBs + install = $80
Sway bars + bushings = $300
LCAs = $180
PHB = $160
ProKit = $250
KONIs = $700
J&M strut mounts = $180
Wonder Bar = $75
Total = $2265

That's just a rough estimate, I can't remember the exact dollar ammount. That's not counting 'sport' wheels/tires, 4th gen rear end, or brakes. With those, I'd say somewhere in the realm of $4000.

jb3829

iTrader: (1)

I recently replaced my LCA's and panhard bar, poly bushings (midlink & endlink) on both sway bars, and added a wonderbar. I think it's a big difference now. I'm waiting to have the subframes welded in. Depending on how handy you are, you could probably save a few hundred bucks doing it yourself....most of this stuff is bolt on. I did it with air tools and a blowtorch for the stubborn LCA bolts. Just spray those suckers down with a lot of WD-40 or whatever. As for the shocks/struts....well I guess it depends on your budget or how serious you are. I currently have KYB's front and rear which I think are decent for a DD. It might be a good idea to freshen up your steering linkages a bit also if they seem worn.

84olmpcboy

PST has a front end rebuild kit. For $400 I got kyb gr2 front struts and gas-ajust for the rear, both balljoints, tie rod ends, and all polly bushings, and the sway bar bushings. I am waiting on the spring insulator to get in so hopefully it will be on the road this weekend. It should make a big difference on my car because the shocks couldn't even support their own weight and the bushings were about shot. It isn't the fanciest but its a good vaule for what you get.

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

i would not use ANY polyurethane on routing part.
in less you have no other alternative.

jb3829

iTrader: (1)

on routing part? Huh?

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

"Rotating parts" sorry.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Why is poly not good on rotating parts? Example? Not heard of this before.

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/1701/bushings.htm

This pretty much sums it up, glade i found this so i don't have to expane it. . .

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Oh, I see what you mean. Your wording confused me. Yes, definatly do not put polyurathane in the LCAs. I've spoked out against this for a long time.