I recently rebuilt my steering, including ball joints. I also replaced the struts with KYB AGX units. I replaced the steering parts with Moog except the steering box itself which I adjusted according to an article I found on here.

The specs I used were:
+4.5* Caster
-.7* Camber
1/16'' total toe in

According to the shop where I took it, I couldent quite get all my caster and camber due to my factory mounts not having enough adjustment; but they are very close. I have a full print out if anyone is interested.

The car is quite amazing now in comparison to its previous state. Turn in is as crisp as I could want from my street car. What is most pleasing is that the shifty, darty, road steering car that I had before is completely gone. This thing is a pussycat even on the grooved out roads in my area. I cannot vouch for long term tire life at this point, but we will see.

Thanks,
Max

 

I've had similar settings with my allignment. But, mine's closer to 5-5.5 caster, -1.0 camber, and 3/32 (I think) toe out. Much nicer than stock settings. Now it's set at same caster, about -.5 camber, and no toe. Tie wear wasn't that much worse with the more aggresive allignment, but I was putting on my winter wheels/tires and needed an allignment after the LS1 brake conversion so I went with less.

 

Yeah I knew there were more aggressive specs out there. I had done some reading prior to having the alignment done and it seemed as though a little toe-out was better for immediate turn in, but likely to cause scrub in long sweepers. Applying this to the street would tell me that scrub is unacceptable.

I want the maximum from my car (tire,susp.,chasis) but I am also looking to give my expensive Run-Flat tires more life than a typical auto-x low(Neg.) camber, toe-out alignment will provide. So after some research and some help from the good ol' TGO this is what I came up with.

More info if anyone needs....

Thanks,
Max

 

I got the extra caster from my J&M mounts. Really nice pieces. I alligned it for auto-x (no sweepers, just alot of turns). Just never made it to auto-x lol. For that matter, most of the roads I drive around here have anything I'd consider sweepers. Pretty tight switch-backs for the most part.

 

I've done some looking into upper mounts and have seen a lot of names thrown around. Hotpart, Sphon, Hotchkiss, ect..... Seems like the the steel ones with the extra strut height are the best choice.

Yours are J&M? You say nice pieces so I assume you are happy with the quality?

Thanks,
Max

 

The J&M have extra height built into them as well, just in a different design from Spohn's. I have the orginal design J&M's and am going to go to their new design when money permits. The only complain I have with them is the hood clearance. That's why I'm going to the new design that has no such issues. I really reccomend their pieces.

Mine:




New design:

 

Man, those look plenty beefy....

I'd say these are next on the list of the suspension budget. It was tubular LCA's, but since I tightend up the front end with all those new parts I can really feel those upper mounts 18 year old slop. These will still clear my Edlebrock Three point STB right?

Max,

 

Yeah, once you get some new parts up front, the old ones really shine through lol.
I was worried about the same thing and started this thread. Check post #7. More good news about the Edlebrock piece is that it'll clear a LS1 swap as well as the stock TBI. lol, extra info.