OK so this saturday im going to be putting on my new springs, struts and shocks and i have a few questions about installing them.

First the easy one im going to replace all my swaybar bushings and endlinks. The correct size endlink for our cars is 2 5/8? thats the size energy suspensions website says.

Is there a way to tell what size my swaybars are? i know i dont have a 36mm one and im assuming there stock, so what sizes came on a 91RS? I know there is a tool that you can use to measure this stuff but i went and asked at the local pep boys today and they looked at me like i was stupid.

Now onto the shocks. I have access to a full service shop with lifts and air tools at the air force base here in tampa. THis will be my first time imstalling struts and springs up front. I swapped out my whole rear so i got that down already. I might have the help of a friend but i might not its up in the air 50/50 right now. How long do you think installing lowering springs and shocks/struts will take one person??

Im renting a spring compressor because of how many times i read about people having troble getting the front springs out and how dangerous it is. And im also going to use a chain to chain the spring to the a-arm.

Do you remove the spring completly while the strut is still bolted down but fully exended? or do you remove the spring as you lower the a-arm using a jack? Would the spring compressor keep the spring from flying out? I dont want anything popping out and suprising me while im doing this.

 

i dont know the answer about the end links, measure yours, just the spacer i believe, and you will get the answer.

measure the sway bar with a caliper, find a good part thats not bent and measure there, you probably have a 32mm bar?

time to change shocks and springs? one person who has never done this before and nothing breaks? probably 4-6 hours conservatively.

for removing the springs, you have to have the strut removed, the brake caliper removed form the spindle, just hand it on some wire or something you dont have to disconnect the brake line. You dont have to remove the spindle, but it may help.
With the car off the ground, you first have to support the a-arm under the spindle, under the balljoint, in the compressed position. This is a good time to get the spring compressor in. I assume you rented the one that goes inside the spring? if so you will need a 4" long pipe nipple to go over the threaded part and some large washers for each end of the nipple help too. Get the two parts of the compressor with the arms onto the spring and get them as far apart as possible, get the top one as far up in the spring as you can get it. Now crank away on the hex end of the compressor with an impact gun, compress the spring as far as you can. Chain is to something now if you want.

***be aware of what is happening, you dont want the 2 moving parts of the compressor to jam together on the threaded shaft, and it is possible for the compressor to break, so just be careful***

Then you can remove the strut.

Lower the support slowly from the end of the control arm, slowly letting pressure off the spring. The spring may pop loose on its own, of you will have to push the a-arms all the way down, pointing straight down, and it will come out, or it will need a little persuasion with a prybar to get it out. again, just stand clear in case something blows.

That should get the spring out, now you can uncompress it on the floor.

The new lowering spring may be shorter that the stock one, you probably dont need the spring compressor to get it back in. When you put it back in, dont forget to put the insulator back on. It may be stuck to the old spring, or stuck up inside the spring pocket.
Be sure to index the bottom of the spring, the end of the coil should sit between the 2 little holes in the back of the a-arms spring pocket.

For the rears, unbolt the shocks, unbolt the brake line bracket for the body, its just 1 bolt, 1/2" head i think, and lower the rear all the way and the spring will come loose.

I think thats it, lets see if i forgot something.
-Phil

 

What are some things i should look for breaking? This is the first time my struts will be replaced and with my luck something will go. Im trying to have all the parts i need to replace now, so i dont have to redo everything.

And what is a pipe nipple? I have not rented the compressor yet but i will be renting one tomorrow from Auto Zone or advanced auto. Would all of these things come with the compressor?

And just clearing this up, when putting the front spring in should i chain it to the a-arm? Make sure to intalll the spring and use the jack to hold it in place before bolting the strut up?

For measuring the endlinks i just measure the big metal washer thing that sits between the two bushings for the top and bottom?

 

86TA seems to have it right. I think it's a good idea to invest $20 in a repair manual for an at hand reference. I did that after I tore both ends apart and put them back together with no guide. Surprisingly, nothing was broken/incorrectly installed. I've never had anything I'm not replacing break, but you can probably expect some new bolts will be needed. I've never chained the spring. Not saying nothing won't go wrong, but I've been carefull with no spring compressor or chain and removed the front springs several times without a problem. Might need the compressor with removing the stock springs, though.

What parts you thinking about going with?

 

As mentioned above, you can measure your sway bar diameter with a digital or dial caliper. You can get cheapy ones at Harbor Freight Tools, some of them are even plastic but they work OK and can take a little rough handling. While the cheap ones are not nearly good enough to replace a micrometer for fine work, a caliper is a very handy tool to have around for measuring things in a mechanical world.
The watch- battery powered digital ones usually measure from 0 to 5 or 6 inches or so. And they usually have a switch on them to switch back and forth from thousandths to millimeters.

 

sometimes the big bolts that hold the struts to the spindle break, thats probably it.

Pipe nipple, once you get the compressor you will see what i mean. It it made to work with a much longer spring that these cars have you you need a spacer. It goes on the end of the thread rod, just under the hex head and between that and the first compressor arm thing.

no need to chain the spring in when re-installing. just get the spring in and indexed, then jack up the control arm a bit, bolt the strut on, then keep jacking it untill the strut is back up through the strut mount and put the nut back on.

measure that little spacer like you mentioned for the endlinks.

and as mentioned above, make sure you have a chiltons/haynes manual or other repair manual for this specific car before you start. they have pictures and decent instructions for the job.

 

I have a haynes manuel for my car so that should help me out a bunch. Its my first time doing struts so i just want to be dead set on what im doing before i get there as i will have no access to a computer while at the shop.

Does anybody see anything wrong with doing the rear shocks and springs on one day, driving the car home about 4 miles, then going back the next day to do struts and front springs?

And i can pretty much visualize what a pipe nipple is from your description, but would it come with the compressor?

Thanks for all your help guys it makes life sooo much easier.

 

Considering I can do the rear shocks/springs in about 30-45 minutes (including jacking the car up without our busted *** jack), you shouldn't have a problem in doing it in a half day. Actually, if you start early, you might be able to squeeze it all in one day. Just make sure you have an allignment scheduled the day of or the day after you do the front. Otherwise, you'll need new tires lol.

 

Yea im going to have an alignment done the monday of. Seeing as sunday there is the superbowl in tampa i doubt ill be able to get one done then.

 

All the shops are closed around here Sundays. I usually sneak in to get mine done on a Saturday. I only pay for every other allignment hehehe.

 

The nipple won't come with the compressor. Here's a pic of the four-inch pipe nipple I used:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...s-dsc00195.jpg

BTW, my fear factor is enormous where springs are concerned. You can't go wrong with a chain.

JamesC

 

Link you posted is a dead one james......

Yea im going to home depot today and buying a chain, along with renting the compressor, im assuming i can buy a pipe nipple at home depot also....

 

Works for me.

JamesC

 

and me too!

 

hmmm maybe its just something in my computer, anyways i picked one up today so im all set. thanks