I wasn't sure where to post this so i decided this was the best. My car pulls nose up all the way down the track. I'm working on transfering enough weight on a hard launch to pull the front wheels. I have a MASSIVE marine battery in my car that weighs quite a lot. do you guys think that relocating it to the spare tire area in the rear will help me hook harder and/or aid me in lifting the front wheels?

 

your cars not hooking up right. you need the rear end to rise, you get more traction that way, the link suspension on these cars like to try to push forward when hooking up, causing the rear to lift. sounds like you need rear control arms. yes relocating the battery will help some, but i would do the new links first

 

It will help but I still doubt you'll be able to pull the wheels. Relocating the battery takes more than just moving it to the rear. Any relocated battery must have a master switch at the rear. When turned off it must kill the engine etc. Use the search function to find information on battery relocation.

My car is set up to only pull the wheels about a foot off the ground and it carries them about 2 car lengths. Proper weight transfer is about torque and chassis setup. Even a nose heavy pickup truck can yank the front wheels 3 feet in the air if the chassis is properly set up and it has enough torque.

It's all about torque, instant center, shock settings, traction, gearing and finally weight transfer which takes place after everything else is working properly.

 

ok then let me take this another direction. Whats the benifit of boxing stock control arms rather than making/ordering tubular ones?

 

More money in your pocket but you'll still have soft mushy rubber bushings.

 

stiffer stamped steel links.

 

I know i've got the power ot do it, i just need a good hard hook and the right suspension components. I've got the posi, the good tires, the power etc. i think i just need a little more pressure over the rear wheels.

 

no i've got poly bushings already.

 

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...oil-Over-Kits/
those should help tremendously.

 

thanks for the link, but those are a bit out of my price range. Question, do i need stiffer shocks or softer shocks?

 

I would personally go a little stiffer.

 

i've got brand new shocks but they are stock replacement. They offer excellent ride quality. and they did lower my ET by .3 secs.

 

re-gearing would do more than a set of shocks, unless its your daily, i would have gotten 4.10's instead of 373's.you could always spend some cash and get QA1 double adjustables.

 

yeah it's my daily. 4.10's arent too highway friendly lol. I've got a 3000 stall converter that pulls around 2200. But i try to launch around 3000 when the brakes want to hold. I'm almost where i want it, but a little more "something" is all i need off the line to get the car to act like i want. Like i said it pulls great all the way down the track, but i have a hard time getting a good solid hook. I hook really well and just when it feels like its gonna float the front end, it breaks loose.

 

Try some Koni SPA-1 shocks, they are made to let it sink down to hook up then after you get going they make the front hunker down to create less drag. Or you could just go for some lake wood shocks. the will do about the same thing.