im about to order an 8 point from summit. I just wanted to see some pics of them i couldnt find a thread with just pics of roll bars and cages, if im wrong please post a link. thanks, joel

 

Here's my 6 point that I bent up and welded.

 

i posted a thread in the suspension or fabrication section. titles installed 6pt comp engineer roll cage. i was the comp engineering kit i got from summit. its a nice cage. didnt put the door bars. since its a daily driver. but i will have to when i go to the track probably.

 

http://www.kwikkarauto.com/Services/index.html

click on "The '88 IROC Camaro project."

 

my comp eng hoop fit like s***. I had to cut (obviously) but I also had to bend it in more in order for it to fit between my doors. Something along the lines of 1-3/4" total. But if it was easy my 6 yr old would do it. I have pics in another thread of the install.

 

 

i had the same prob with my comp engineer kit. my hoop was alil too wide to fit snuggly. so i had used a cable jack/pulley to squeeze the bottom of the hoop bars enough to get where i wanted it. then i tacked it and called it a day. took a whole 5 extra min. but it was unexpected

 

I was kinda overboard with the whole rebend but I plan on taking it back out to paint (not around the welds) before tig welding.

 

just finished up yesterday.
its tacked in, but i need to get it TIG welded so its all purdy lookin.
this was all custom bent.

 

Finished it up today. Gonna paint it next.

 

Is this a third gen? If so, (I'm thinking its fourth gen) how hard was that door panel conversion?

 

they werent all that fun, but the end product is nice.
im glad i bent up a bar, because a 3rd gen kit wouldnt have cleared where the main hoop goes because of the armrest sticking out all the way to the rear on the 4th gen panels.
same goes for a 4th gen kit. the hoop wouldnt have been tight to the car, and with the front floor being a bit different and me having 4th gen door panels, the door bar may not have cleared. i spent a lil more on the tubing than i would a kit, but its where,and the way i wanted it.
if you do the door panels... its a do it and not look back situation. its a different type of mod for sure. nowhere to mount the stuff.
good luck with it. lmk if you have any questions.

 

Really? Take a look at the first picture, you can see the taillights.

Verdict: 3rd Gen Camaro



Looks awesome man

 

I have a lot of questions! Do you have pics of this in progress I can see?
Exactly how did you get the 4th gen panel to attach? More importantly how are the handles installed? Also, do the power windows work and how hard was it to wire them up?
Furthermore, could you fit a fourth gen dash with those door panels?
I love the third gen exterior but the interior makes me want to vomit...

 

NVM on the dash, I can see you have one installed.... Damn nice. I will take any advice/help you are willing to offer.

 

handle mounts get creative. i cut a good portion of the door metal, so i made some aluminum braces to help stabilize them.
very sturdy. none of my stuff is flimsy or weak. i always go overboard.
here is a thread with some decent info and pics for the panels.
i dont have any write ups on the dash or console swap, but there are a ton of threads about them on this board.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...-gen-door.html

 

just did the door bars and swing out kits.

 

what swing out is that? i like the look of them better than the tab version, but im not sure where they fall in the quality range.
fit good?

 

competition engineering... they are 42$ per side. they are pretty good. if you can weld good then go for it. still is a pain to do the hindge side... clearancing the bar etc will make it thinner than i thought.

they come in 2 sizes... 1 5/8 and 1 3/4". if you have a 8pt then its 1 3/4". 10pt kits and higher are 1 5/8". they fit great. if your smart enough to install a cage u can do the swing out kits. just take your time.

quality is good. the pull out pins are aluminum and have blue anodized buttons. also comes with braided steel line thats plastic coated to attach the pull out pin to the hoop. i like it better than the tab verson. i stuck with them bc they just look stronger and i have a comp engineer cage so i wanted it to be all comp engineer. they are certified to 9.5s.

 

Your ridiculous... And I mean that in a good way.

 

Swing out kits = Useless door bars... Think about it, you just took all of the rigidity out of those bars. Furthermore I don't think they will work nearly as well as a solid bar in a collision. That's why I am just going to weld my door bars horizontal to the floor along the door sill and connect up to the "A" pillar bars, then I will weld in an angle that goes from the main hoop to the horizontal "door" bars... My hope is that this will give the rigidity and safety I am looking for and not have a bar in the middle of my door.

 

not anywhere close to being done but the idea is their just a little more hard work

 

I just finished installing my new cage last week. Lots of pictures on this link

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...roll-cage.html

 

yea stephen, your cage looks awesome. how long did it take start to finish?

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...roll-cage.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...-cage-tig.html

another thread with cages there. Old thread some pics deleted

my interior so far
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...r-started.html

 

Technically, it only took a couple of long days not counting the time to remove the old one.

The plates were already on the front of the floor. I installed new plates for the main hoop on the 4-link crossmember.

I didn't have all the straight tubing yet so the first Saturday was spent installing the main hoop, halo bar, a-pillar and dash bars. That took 4-5 hours because of notching and fitting. Without straight tubing, that's all we could do on the first weekend.

By the next weekend, the straight tubing had arrived. During the week I spent a couple of hours every night notching and fitting some pieces into place then tacking them for final welding. On the Saturday, all the rear tubes were finish welded in 3-4 hours and I spent another 4 hours or so cutting and notching all the door bars. Sunday took a couple of hours to finish up all the welding and the tubing was done.

So technically after the plates were welded to the floor, the equivalent of 2 long days to put it in but I did it over 7-10 days. Doing all the tinwork was extra plus installing the window net, seat mount etc.

As for cost, all the steel cost me roughly $1000 CAD and there's a lot more tubes than a typical kit plus a lot of the tubes were used from the old cage. Cost of installation was my time and help from a welder friend who did all the welding. If you have to pay someone, expect to pay $100-$150 per point for a basic kit. I have a lot more tubes than a basic kit. Having to remove and install interior costs even more.

Cost of a roll bar/cage is cheap. Cost to have it installed can get expensive.

 

i dont see them as usless, they are certified for 9.5s so they are strong. i do agree i can see where your coming from with the "losing strength" but when the door bars are closed they are solid... i hit it with a closed fist and it sounds like a solid bar, the CEE hindges are basically 1/2 bar that fits around the welded solid bar so it still keeps the strength more than i would think a TABBED verson would. still tho getting into a car with a 8pt kit is not an easy task... i tried to figure out a way to make it easy for over a week and it was still insanely hard, and getting out was even harder. getting in now is super easy and i still have door bars to increase rigidy and saftey vs having nothing there at all. so u cant have your cake and eat it too... but its a wise compromise for me.

 

If installed properly, a swing out door bar is allowable down to 8.50. It used to be 7.50 years ago but when they made the funny cage car mandatory below 8.50, the swing out door bar couldn't be used.