so i’m in the process of dropping in another set of tokicos... never had a problem with an install before, usually done in about 2-3 hours... well after getting the rear finished i started on the front passenger side and thats when the pits of hell opened... i’ll spare you the b.s. and get str8 to the problem... after removing the two bottom nuts (closest to the rotor), i began trying to remove the actual bolts that go thru the strut and they wont budge at all... i tried breaking them loose with a torque bar, nada... tried soaking them with a whole can of w-d40 and a couple light taps with a hammer, nada... then a lil more w-d40 with the torque bar again and im still getting nothing besides socket jump... needless to say im fed up... any tips on how to get out of this weak *** situation will be greatly appreciated...

 

If you have an air compressor and impact gun try using that. It's the only way I survived that install. If not.....invest in one! It's well worth it.

 

Been a long time since I was under one, had to sell mine due to a divorce, anyway I don't remember the true setup under there but can you heat them up, just becareful and get 'em good and hot with a torque bar or better an impact wrench and keep trying.

 

its on there so tight it blew my impact gun, i'm almost scared to touch it with the wrench... i'm gonna try some pb blaster and go from there... last case scenario the things getting torched...

 

Undo the nuts on the (edit) outside first. Use Liquid Wrench or JB-80 and heat it up to draw it in between the pieces. I used a long extension (must be heavy duty) about 3 feet long and use steady tension to ease it free while it's still warm.


Freeing the bolts may be difficult after removing the nuts. With the nuts removed use the penetrating fluid and heat to loosen the bolt while trying to turn it. Then get the same size nut from the hardware store and screw it on enough to protect the threads on the bolt and hammer it free. Repeat three more times. If you get stuck go to a different one for a while.

 

You need a longer breaker bar. When I changed my struts, I used an 18" breaker bar with a 2' pipe over the end. I had to stand on the damn thing to get it to budge, but I got them off. Had to use the same setup to get them tightened back up to spec as well.

How do you have the control arm supported? If the arm is just hanging there unsupported and the top of the strut is still connected to the mount then the coil spring is pressing down on the strut bolts and will make them difficult to remove.

 

everything was done properly, car was up on jackstands and had a jack underneath the control arm... also i pretty much use the same breaker bar set up as you, just wouldnt budge at all... But it's all takin care of now!!! went completely ape s%#$ with a hammer and they popped out like it never happened... thanks guyz for the input!!

 

Sorry for stating the obvious, but you never know.

Glad you got them out. Sometimes it just takes the persuasive end of a BFH to get the job done.