Spohn Ball Joint question for those that use them..
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Lost Wages, NV
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.08 Posi 10 Bolt w/ aluminum drums
Spohn Ball Joint question for those that use them..
How in the heck do you get the boots to stay on the ball joints???
I know there is some kind of metal band or spring inside the base of the boot that keeps it over the joint, but mine keep popping off when I try to put the boots on..
I know there is some kind of metal band or spring inside the base of the boot that keeps it over the joint, but mine keep popping off when I try to put the boots on..
Re: Spohn Ball Joint question for those that use them..
my MOOG balljoints are the same way the boots just wanna pop off, right now they are on there, but not snapped in to place, if they even due snap into place as long as they are covering the greased area they are doing there job
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 171
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From: Vernon CT
Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 3.42posi
Re: Spohn Ball Joint question for those that use them..
Anyone get them all the way on yet?
Im having the same problem with my Moog K6145's(problem solvers).
Im having the same problem with my Moog K6145's(problem solvers).
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 51
From: Enschede, Netherlands
Car: 82 TA 87 IZ L98 88 IZ LB9 88 IZ L98
Engine: 5.7TBI 5,7TPI 5.0TPI, 5,7TPI
Transmission: T5, 700R4, T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.27, 3.45, 3.27
Re: Spohn Ball Joint question for those that use them..
There's a metal sleeve in the seal. First make sure you note where the little bleed hole is for excess grease to ooze out. Aim it to the spring, not the disc.
next, take a pipe or a large socket that is the appropriate size to catch the outer ring part (wth the square indentations) of the boot and whack it on. You will not be able to get them on by hand. They are meant to go on that tight. They should go on all the way like this, these are the same problem solver jonts:
next, take a pipe or a large socket that is the appropriate size to catch the outer ring part (wth the square indentations) of the boot and whack it on. You will not be able to get them on by hand. They are meant to go on that tight. They should go on all the way like this, these are the same problem solver jonts:
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: Lost Wages, NV
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.08 Posi 10 Bolt w/ aluminum drums
Re: Spohn Ball Joint question for those that use them..
I used a pair of channel locks turned sideways(laying flat) on the lowest lip of the rubber boot, and whacked the side of the channelocks with a hammer...
one whack and they were on....
one whack and they were on....
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 51
From: Enschede, Netherlands
Car: 82 TA 87 IZ L98 88 IZ LB9 88 IZ L98
Engine: 5.7TBI 5,7TPI 5.0TPI, 5,7TPI
Transmission: T5, 700R4, T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.27, 3.45, 3.27
Re: Spohn Ball Joint question for those that use them..
no, the tie rod boots are just loose over the tie rods, they have no collar on them.
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 383
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From: NY
Car: 88IROC, 91Z28 + parts cars
Engine: 355, 408
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LS1, 9" w/ 4.56 and spool
Re: Spohn Ball Joint question for those that use them..
I had the same problem with my PA racing tubular arms. I used channel locks to pull the boot down over the ball joint. Did it that way cause mine popped up after I installed the spindles. Worked for me, just had to play around for a minute or two on each side.
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 379
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From: Middletown, MD
Car: 1983 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
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