Hey all!

Now that summer and fall are behind us and I'm sitting staring out the window for the next driving season, I have an issue with my car after replacing all the suspension up front and out back (control arms, end links, ball joints, tie rods, shocks, springs).

I had it aligned before getting the subframe connectors put on. Now... I'm not sure if this is just showing me how slack the old steering is after replacing everything else but I have a bit of a Memory Steer issue. After making a turn I have an annoyance of having to turn the wheel back to straight, I know it's rear wheel drive and they tend to not snap back like a front wheel drive but what I am experiencing is more than typical.

Same thing with going straight, I've got some wander mainly because when I turn the wheel while going straight there is a good amount of play (I'd guess an inch from center on either side) before it actually engages and I start to change direction.

To summarize, I'm sure I lubed everything up enough prior to installing all the new parts (see sig) so I'm not sure if the memory steer is due the new stuff being tight and needs time to work in or if the old steering box is really worn.

 

Set as much caster as you can to improve self centering and straight line stability. However you'll need caster adjustable strut towers for that.

 

Did you replace the idler arm and center link? If so, perhaps a steering box adjustment is in order. Check post #2 of the following link:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...nsion-how.html

JamesC

 

I would check the steering componets for excess play. You probably need to replace at very least idler arm (they go bad often, very common). Also you might have a binding ball joint or strut rod bushing. If those check out okay, I would suspect that you do not have enough caster. I believe you need about 4.5 degrees. After checking and replacing any bad front end parts have it aligned. They will probably have to adjust caster and toe when they do the caster adjustment. Oh, one more thing, you might have a binding steering gear box, there are adjustments on them to make the worm gear tighter and looser, but unless you have messed with that before you better have a shop check the steering box. But most likely cause is caster. Good luck and hope that helps some.

 

your steering box needs to have the slack adjusted out of it, and you probably need to re-align the idler arm so it's moving with the centerlink/pitman arm,

 

I just add ya sure its not the famous loose steering part in the column???

 

Great! Thanks for all the info, I think I have the report sheet somewhere for how they set up the alignment. They said they set it up for "performance cornering" so I hope they didn't screw it up. At least I have a starting point now!

Idler Arm was replaced, center link replaced. They were in the kit from Spohn. I did tell them everything was roughed in and new under there when i got the alignment, maybe they didn't to the idler/pitman arm tuning? It was a while ago that I was under there but I do remember making sure I lined things up the best I could before going over.

With adjusting the caster/toe - hopefully that won't affect the direction of the subframe connectors?

As far as the loose steering part goes, the car drove fine before I replaced everything up front (replaced as everything was still original and rubber was cracked pretty good so was probably a good time to do it when I was changing the ball joints and shocks that were very very tired).

 

If the idler arm isn't positioned correctly, you may be experiencing bump steer. (There should only be +/-1mm between sides, so "roughing" it in, especially if the shop failed to double-check, may be the issue)

JamesC

 

I was actually wondering if I would have that after the swap but I don't thankfully.

 

I was talkin about inside the column,

 

Right as always. The idler arm must be installed at the same height-relative to the chassis-as the pitman arm. It's easy for the alignment shop to skip this step, but you can measure yourself, just make sure it's from a common reference point.

New ball joints can be a little tight at first, but should 'break in' after a few hundred miles or so. Make sure you re-lube all of your fittings after a few tanks of driving.

If it persists you may want to check each wheel for ease of turning-make sure the ball joints and/or strut rods are not binding. This is best done on a rack with the suspension loaded at the tire, but a quick check can be done with the a-arms supported by jack stands. Disconnect the tie-rods so the wheels will turn independently and compare the ease of turning to each other. Just cause they're new doesn't mean they're right.

The box can be pulled out and bench adjusted. Check carefully the condition of the rag joint at the input to the box and the steering shaft bolt near the brake booster. The rag joint may seem tight just testing it back and forth. Test it with the engine running, turn the shaft by hand and observe it for give with some load on it. If it's oily replace it and fix your gear seal(s).

While you're there carefully inspect your strut mounts. A bad mount will allow the alignment to change depending on how it's loaded and cause all kinds of issues.

If you decide to replace your box with a reman, delay as long as possible turning your old one in as a core. Make sure you're happy with the reman and that it's the 'right' box for you. I've not personally had good luck with remans.

 

So was I

Steering wheel is nice and firm. Doesn't pull in and out or wobble up/down.

And thanks Naf - more info = better chances of fixing

 

I have been real busy lately in light of the holidays. When I get some free time I will do a good post on bumpsteer. how to check for it and what to change or adjust to get rid of bumpsteer.

I would also chack your wheel bearings for play. Worn races and/or bearings will make a car walk back and forth in the lane. the wider the tires, the worse this will be.