I've seen quite a few f-bodys with & without the triangular K-member braces and a few berlinettas with only one. They're supposed to help prevent cracks around the torq box but anyone notice a handling difference without them? My car was drilled for them but not tapped. I noticed a difference after I had to put them on when I noticed some cracking. Wonderbars are for the same thing and I've heard alot of people say they help. I'm beginning to wonder what effect the crash bars have on rigidity. Our front ends seem to need alot of reinforcing, don't they?

 

Hopefully, you had the cracks themselves repaired.

Knowing which cars received the braces in question and which didn't would be interesting.

JamesC

 

Of course I welded them up! JB weld counts right? JK.

What's interesting is on the berlinettas I've seen the bracing's only on the passenger side.

 

Oddly, my parts & illustration CD only shows one, on the driver's side. More GM mystery.

82-86 Brace, F/End Lwr Structure
87-88 Brace, Lwr Structure
89-90 Brace, Lwr Structure (Tray & Cann)
90 Brace, Lwr Structure (Tray and Canister)

All have the same part number: 14083989

BTW, my 85 shop manual calls the piece a Brace, Frt, C/Member-RH. No mention is made of a LH.

JamesC

 

have both of the on both my 86trans am and my 92firebird

 

I have both on my 89 IROC, but was wondering if they would be needed with my aftermarket wonder bar..Was thinking about getting a BMR or Spohn K member, would both be needed?

 

I have both on my '91 B4C as well as a factory wonderbar brace.

 

Thanks I may go ahead and do both. The only companies I know are Race Craft and Spohn that offer this option for the brace. With my aftermarket wonder bar should stiffen things up a bunch

 

I've seen some of the stuff on ebay or maybe the thirdgenranch.com has them??? Wonder braces are pretty cheap for sure seen those.

 

OK, so here's a question for people who have taken off the crashbars- did you notice a difference without it? Can't say that I did. I would imagine that it has an effect on ridgidity though.

 

i installed a wonder bar and a strut tower brace and noticed the car to be more responsive out front...i think along with SFCs ...they are all a must on 3rd gen cars....

 

Before adding the STB, members might consider swapping the OE strut mounts out to the spherical type from Spohn or Hot Parts; otherwise, you won't experience the full benefits of the brace:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...wer-brace.html

JamesC

 

Thanks, The STBs are out for me...I am using the Holley Stealth Ram( HSR )..

 

What all did you do to run the Stealth Ram? I am planning to go with my 383 and the HSR or go for a LS swap...

Will go with an aftermarket K-member for whatever I go with along with a host of other items to stiffen her up as best I can.

 

not true... i made one for my 383 HSR .... HUGE DIFFERENCE! im still running the stock strut mounts but they will be upgraded soon!

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...rut-tower.html

 

wildcatkit52...Nothing special needed to run the HSR, If you have the stock IROC hood the bottom of the hood will have to be cut slightly. The center grace that hold the hood insulation will hit the TB..

 

I just put on the Ram Air hood so I have plenty of clearance for that and to build a strut tower brace.

customblackbird, I'd like more info on your car. It sounds like you have a good headstart on what I am shooting for if I go with the 383 and HSR.

 

do u need more than wats in my sig?

9.8:1 383, tuned by me using tunerpro and moates adapter.
HSR ported to fepro 1206s, and ported under the plenum/reshaping the runner entrance
58mm professional products TB, i tried my grannelli maf but its poop, so running the stocker. handmade ram air for my ram air II hood.
holley fuel rail kit with billet kirban adjustable fuel pressure regulator, 30lb SVO injectors.
patriot 195cc ported aluminum heads, 64cc chambers, roller cam spring upgrade consists of dual springs good for .720" lift. ARP rocker studs, 1.6 full roller aluminum proform rockers, heads are also portmatched to felpro1206.
SHORT BLOCK:
factory 87 roller cam block, bored .030. align honed mains
comp cams XFI 280 cam, 230/236 .571/.569 lift 113 lobe
LS7 roller lifters, comp cams high energy .100 longer than stock pushrods.
forged SRP dished pistons (floating pins), -16cc dish, SRP moly rings gapped by me for .020 top ring, .022" second ring (for future power adder )
SCAT high performance forged rods with ARP capscrew bolts.
Scat cast 9000 crank, clevite bearings, ARP head/main/cam/intake bolts as well as ARP oil pump stud, and ARP flexplate/tq converter bolts.
running stock oil pan with melling high pressure stock oil pump (no need for high volume unless ur running a deep sump pan)

trans is a 700r4 i built for 700hp, billet servos, transgo shift kit, 9clutch 3-4 pack, boost valves, deep pan, and external trans cooler. im running a 12" converter with about 2800-2900 stall.

rear end is a ford 8.8 i fabbed up, with tq arm mount, running a jegster tubular shorty tq arm, UMI tubular spherical rod end panhard bar, UMI LCA reloaction brackets and UMI dual rod ended LCAs. also running stock Driveshaft with jegster driveshaft loop. rear was upgraded by me with carbon fiber clutches for the limited slip and stronger F150 clip, running 28spline axles with ARP axle cap studs, with a moser support girdle.

im running thru floor SFC i made and a 8pt competition engineering 8pt roll bar with swing out door kit. for the front end i have TDS wonderbar, hand made strut tower brace, poly front LCA bushings, reinforced the front Aarms, poly engine mounts, poly trans bushing.

right now im looking into J&M upper strut mounts. and perhaps KYB AGX struts. i have KYB gr2s up front and gas-a-justs in the rear. with cut moog 5664s in the front for the sportline drop 1.5-2". and i cut new moog 5665s for more than the sportlines. i originally had sportlines on mine but they are too soft. i should have about 900lbin in the front and about 150lb in the rear.

i have full exhaust, headman LTs with true dual 3" exhaust with 3" xpipe going into dual 3" force mufflers with turn downs. very loud fully upgraded brakes (in sig) and 17x8 SLP's up front and deep dish ford rims 17x10.5" with 315s out back. stereo is apline with 6 speakers and 2 tweeters with 200w amp. racing seats, 5pt racing harnesses and lots and lots of gauges

its not stock anymore

 

I have an IROC, and I have both.

Bracing, remove it...why?

 

Hello
What it comes down to is its a personal preference on how everyone likes there vehicle to handle. I just wanted to throw this out there for everyone that below is a link to show we all we have as far as a wonder bar, STB, And our "New" Caster Camber plates.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...elupojf5r5fsg4

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...elupojf5r5fsg4

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...elupojf5r5fsg4

If you have any other questions feel free to ask!
Thanks
Brad

 

the bracing under the hood contacts the HSR at one point. in order for it to fit u have to remove/cut out some of the bracing.

UMI, you caster/camber plates are the J&M mounts correct? bc they are the same lol

 

I am not going to buy a tower brace or wonder bar until I decide on the engine.

Caster Camber plates... Something else I need to add to the list. Too bad I wasted money on wheels that I now have to buy again...

 

Hello
They do look similar but...They are ours we offered them at a better price at first now all the sudden they're price dropped 30%. We just try to make the customer happy by offering them a great product and price. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
Thanks
Brad
Hello
Sorry to see what happened to your ride. I just wanted to suggest to you when you are ready feel free to get in touch with me if you have any other questions and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad

 

My god those wheels are nice too.

UMI...inner rail SFC's...sooner than later. Big sales if you can get both inner and outer sets to link up as well. Kind of an old Kenny Brown setup. unsure if these can be made with square tubing, might be very thin. Take care

 

how did u dent the rims like that? i kno what ur feeling i just destroyed my new rims on the pass side, destroyed my custom made ford 8.8 by bending the axle tube, snapping the axle like a twig, and bent my new UMI double rod ended LCAs that all had only 700miles on them, the LCAs only had 150miles on them

UMI, not sure how yours are different? i mean they are the same design, same caster/camber adjustment as well as the bottom plate is the same. only different i see is yours has your stickers....

wow i cant believe there only 152$ now... i just bought them a month ago for 217$!!! ugh

 

I was driving home in the rain. Came around a corner and a lady coming the other way hit her bright lights... It took me a second to realize she was sitting still because of the brights.

Turns out she was sitting just on the other side of a pine tree that had fallen across the highway.

Due to her lights I didn't see it until I was about 20 feet away. All I could do was hold the wheel straight and enjoy the ride...

It is unfortunte I don't have a dixie horn!

Brad,

You can plan on it. I have your SFC's already but have been holding off on all other items I need until I decide on the engine and get that part going. At that point I will pretty much start getting everything from the front to the rear for the car... Tubular Kmember set for whichever engine all the way back to the LCA's and whatever rear i decide to go with...