mooch1

hi , i need to change my front coil springs on my 85 Z/28...i got an inner coil spring tool ...can i remove the link on the lower table and with the spring compressed unscrew the table bolts and remove the compressed spring?..is that enough space?...and what do you suggest...stock?...moog? or some aftermarket lowered springs like 1.5' lower?....thanks ...

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

No need for a spring compressor, but a short length of chain to hold the spring to the a-arm is a very good idea.

Jack the car up, put it on a jackstand.
Use your floor jack to SLIGHTLY lift the a-arm.
Take the single strut mount loose.
SLOWLY lower the a-arm/strut/steering links as one complete assembly, to keep it from popping out.
Pull the spring out.

Not clue what you mean by "lower table".

camaronewbie

Def do the chain - through the spring, through the A-arm, and run a bolt/nut through the two ends - the spring will pop with alot of force, and this keeps it attached to the car instead of embedded in your head! If you lower the A-arm all the way and the spring doesn't pop on it's own, a little pressure from behind with a long bar will pop it out - it'll scare you, but it won't kill you (with the chain attached that is).

mooch1

hi , thanks for the quick response,,,the lower table is the part linked to the lower ball joint and has the bottom of the spring ...(that's what i though it was called anyways),,,a-arm is what?..and single strut mount?..i don't understand what you mean...

camaronewbie

A-arm holds the ball joint.

Single strut mount is the single nut on the threaded rod that comes up though the fender - it's under the plastic cap of the strut tower mount under the hood.

Springs go in a particular way when reinstalling - pay attention to how it's located in the A-arm - there will be two holes in the A-arm, and the end of the coil will be inbetween the two holes - new springs need to go back just like this.

Also, the rubber isolators at the tops of each spring - there will be indentions from the old spring - make sure the new spring goes back in the rubber isolator the same way, and use electrical tape to tape the isolator to the spring top to keep it in place when reinstalling. Just leave the tape in there.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Your "table" ia an a-arm. Never heard it called a table before.

Single strut mount...The nut that holds it IN the engine compartment. Pop the plastic cover off & you'll see a single nut in there. Pull that nut off (almst requires air tools, otherwise the strut rod will spin fast enough that the nut won't come off) then lower the floor jack & the assembly will come down, supported on the floor jack.

Oh yeah.....The brake line is held to the body by 1 small bolt. Pull that bolt out otherwise the assembly can't swing down far enough.

Took us 3 hours to swap out all 4 springs on my car.

mooch1

ok...so i need to unscrew that large strut bolt and the balljoint?...then with that chain in place unscrew the a-arm bolts and lower it slowly?...i have the spring compressor...borrowed it from someone..i can use it i guess without using the chain,,,,i thought i could just undo the stab -bar link and with this tool compress the spring and undo the side bolts on the a-arm,,i read this would have enough space to remove/install the spring...without removing or unscrewing anything else, can i do it that way?....also ..what springs do you recommend..i can get some nice springs on ebay that are 1' or so lower...is this good?

camaronewbie

NO - just the strut bolt at the top in the engine bay - leave the ball joint alone.

NO - no need to remove or even loosen A-arm bolts

Forget the spring compressor - waste of time and very dangerous

If you remove the A-Arm bolts, you'll pay hell getting them back in - again, forget the spring compressor.

No need to remove the sway bar (stabilizer bar). All you have to do is what we've mentioned - nothing more, nothing less - easiest and safest way.

Personal preference on springs - either stay stock ride height and use Moog, or if you want lowering lok at Eibach Prokit - the Eibach's you can order at local Autozone and have them the next day with NO shipping charges - the Prokit lowers 1 inch which allows most driveways without scraping and speed bumps as well, but still gives a nice lowered look.

Oops - just noticed Canada, so no autozone there I guess lol

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

By lowering the strut down with the a-arm this way.....

No need to loosen the ball joint, steering links, no a-arm bolts or anything else. JUST the single nut has to be loosened. Well, the wheels do hafta come off but you gotta do that regardless.

Doing the way I described only the ONE strut nut & small brake line retainer bolt comes loose. Nothing else.

Personally for springs? I love Ground Control Weight Jacks. Not the cheapest solution, but (IMHO) the best solution. Too high? Too Low? Just turn a wrench. No need to buy anything else. Want softer/stiffer springs? Much cheaper to buy new ones (like $50/each) than buying standard springs.

mooch1

ok,,so just unscrew that strut bolt at the top and undo the brake line bolt,,,then lower the jack....this will create enough room to slip the old and the new spring in?,,,the back seem easy ,,,i can let the rear end sag and pop them out with a crow bar?.....i can get some coils front-back that are 1.75' lower ..on ebay for $150 for the kit..would that be good?...thanks.

Gregzz4

A Arm is derived from the shape of the lower control arm
Good luck with your fix

mooch1

what about the coli springs...do you think installing 1.5' lower is okay?..

mooch1

anyone?

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Anyone what? We've already given you good info on removing springs. 1.5" drop is a good number IF you have good roads & a not-so-steep driveway.

mooch1

ok...thanks.

mooch1

hi, ok the top of the spring will be fine with the rubber, i will tape it as you say... ...but at the bottom ,,can i just install it any way?..as long as it's in the circle in the a arm?,,,thankyou,,,and sorry fot the questions,,,i am doing my best to do what you guys are saying..

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

No. It must be indexed correctly: the end of the spring has to be positioned between the two drain holes in the a-arm. Check post #5 of the following link for a pic of the a-arm and the two holes:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...nsion-how.html

JamesC

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

No.

Where the spring sets in the a-arm, it is not "flat". You will notice that in the coils, the last one is "lower" than the one above it, because of the coiling effect.

The a-arm has a spring seat that matches that, and 2 drain holes that it fits between.. Effectively, a "step". The very end of the coil fits into that "step".

Same goes for the stock rubber bushing. You'll likely notice the step in it & that needs to be lined up like it was originally.

Once you get apart, my bad descriptions will be clear. You most likely would have noticed it anyways.

mooch1

ok...i see what you mean...the a-arm has a little notch...so the end of the coil will go in there,,,,but my coils are aftermarket coils ...one end has a coil end that looks like the original,,,but the other end has sort of a flat edge towards where the coil ends...this flat end should go up top or in the a-arm?,,i figure the flat edge will go up top?...thankyou and sorry for the many questions.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

No apology needed. We all have to start the learning process somewhere on cars in general, or even at 50yrs old on a different model you've never touched.

Anyways.....

Yeah Flat = top.

mooch1

ok..thanks...i am trying my best to do it your way...i think i will have to remove the coil...i don't have the bottom in right ...i will continue tomorrow...

mooch1

hi , i have tried to put the coil spring back and it won't go back using this method....i am getting an internal coil spring compressor...also ...it it normal for my strut to be completely in and if i pull it out ,,,it goes back in right way?..i changed the front coils 2 years ago and barely drove the car....thanks.