What's the simplest way to increase braking power on a 4-disc setup?

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Willie

Supercharged 1987 305 IROC-Z, Daily-Driver, Emissions-Legal.
12.57 @ 111 mph.
12.04 @ 113 mph (50-hp nitrous).
http://www.ozemail.com/au/jca69/mods/williesz/willie.html

1987 "20th Anniversary Commemorative Edition" Z28 Convertible -- Super Chevy Show Class Winner, 1998.

 

1) Pads
I.E. : Carbon Metallic; Brutestop; Carbon Kevlar.... downside is shorter rotor life with some brands.

2) Braided teflon brake lines: reduces the potential of a line swelling and losing some brake pressure to that caliper. However, Baer says they have tested new rubber lines versus new braided lines and not really seen any improvement in braking distance. Yeah, sure on those massive brakes! Well, they still include braided lines in thier brake kits anyway!

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FORMULA 350 TK
Southern California 3rd Generation F-Body Organization©

 

Go to a set of softer brake pads all around. Make sure the calipers are in good condition and not in need of a rebuild. If you're still not satisfied, open up your wallet and say "Baer".

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89 Formula 350, Accel Tri-Ys, 3" SLP, chip, Jacobs, SLP cold air, Probuilt tranny, Vigilante, 3.27s, Spohn torque arm & LCAs w/brackets, GW Subs

 

Baer's name comes up for good reason. I recently installed their SS system. You wouldn't believe the improvement if I tried to explain. The down side is the cost. By the time it was over, the cost was more than expected. The basic system only covers the front. I opted for the rear enhance package (rotors) and added pads and braided lines in the back as well. I believe the SS kit sells for $1250, but with the options (Zinc wash/cross drill/slot) it came to about $1800. It is alot of money..... but I'd do it again. I wanted the system to be as complete as possible from them to eliminate installation problems and it worked fine. I was never happy with the factory system even after adding rear discs, so I decided to fix it once and for all. Everything works and fit perfectly, as you'd expect.

 

If you are looking for the BEST then Baer is the ticket. I can't afford them currently. I have just swapped in a disc rear and upgraded to Autospecialty Power Stop drilled rotors all around with PFCM pads. I also will be adding the Stewart Components LBS (lock resistant braking system). I have a problem with a rear pad not retracting to sort out first though. Good luck, Lon.

 

BAER=MONEY
Good brakes though if you have the cash.For Autocross and corner carvers they are the ticket,but for street cars and strip cars look elsewere,the bigger rotors will add front end weight.Willwood,Aerospace,are good alternatives

 

The other day I had to slam on my brakes and to my amazement all 4 disks locked up on dry pavment and I slid sideways. I have never seen this before I have the 12 inch rotors on the rear with rabestes? pads and I always keep them adjusted using my emergency brake

 

Hello Tom!

I am thankful for Baer's braided brake lines..on occasion I spin off course road racing and all kinds of rocks and junk get up under your car. I would not want to have a brake line be a causualty of this! This weekend I managed to puncture my radiator from the engine side, break wheel weights off, and put rocks in between a rim and wheel in one spin! No-one can say road racing is boring! ;-)

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'84 HO Z28 CMC Race Car
'97 TA Purdy Car

 

I dont know about the kits adding weight. According to Baer, their kits are 30Ibs lighter than 1LE kits. I dont have either, so I dont know the truth. I am also looking into their SS kit, which is looking about $1900. If anyone has Bell Tech's drop spindle's, they do offer kits with these spindles to keep your 2 inch drop.

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L

 

New fluid should help, too... right?

-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards