strut/shock replacement
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Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,760
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From: Newark, DE
Car: 86' Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-56
strut/shock replacement
im getting ready to replace shocks and struts on my 86 Z. the car has 130000 miles on it, and as far as i know, all the bushings and stuff are orginal. should i replace all this or will the new shocks and struts be ok
you shouldn't replace anything that isn't wore out unless you're wanting to up grade to better parts. there is a lot of bushings in a third gen so it'd be a big job to replace all them. might be better to start with just the shocks and struts and see how it feels after you're done.
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-=ICON MOTORSPORTS=-
1st & 3rd
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-=ICON MOTORSPORTS=-
1st & 3rd
Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: Henderson, NV., USA
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: 700r4
hey ede what about the upper stut mounts, should they be replaced when replacing struts
or if not then what would make replacing the upper stut mounts necassary.
thanx
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TPIS airfoil,relocated MAT,AFPR,TB h2o bypass
otherwise stock 5.0TPI
700r4, 9 bolt 3.23 g92 axle
or if not then what would make replacing the upper stut mounts necassary.
thanx
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TPIS airfoil,relocated MAT,AFPR,TB h2o bypass
otherwise stock 5.0TPI
700r4, 9 bolt 3.23 g92 axle
I will tell you that when I replaced my rubber bushings for the Energy Suspension bushings it made a world of difference on handling and my car had around the same mileage on it as yours. The front bushings are teh biggest pain b/c you need to remove the A-arms and have the bushings pressed out and pressed in...not hammered out. So while you have the struts out if you are thinking of doing it I would go ahead and save yourself the time and money of having to take the struts back out and having the car re-aligned again. The alignement shop should be able to press the old bushings out and press teh new ones in for you. I took my A-arms to Big 10 tires in my town and had them do it. We bought a press for our tool collection so we can do it at home now. Check on what bushings to get b/c some squeak more than others and the A-arm bushings have no way of lubricating them due to being sealed in a metal casing. Mine tend to squeak the most on real cold days. It was worth the effort though!
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1988 TA 300+hp 350 w/ TBI and Holley TB unit, Holley projection intake,
WC T-5, 3.42 gears w/ Auburn posi. MSD 6A, edelbrock TES headers, dynomax 3" cat and cat-back system, ACCEL coil, polyurethane bushings all around, aluminum driveshaft, Mr. Gasket open air cleaner.
1993 S-10 w/ 4.3L V6 TBI, slightly bigger cam, Mild polish job and 3 angle valve job on heads, Edlebrock TES headers, Dynomax cat back, MSD 6A, ADS chip
2000 Kawasaki KX 125
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1988 TA 300+hp 350 w/ TBI and Holley TB unit, Holley projection intake,
WC T-5, 3.42 gears w/ Auburn posi. MSD 6A, edelbrock TES headers, dynomax 3" cat and cat-back system, ACCEL coil, polyurethane bushings all around, aluminum driveshaft, Mr. Gasket open air cleaner.
1993 S-10 w/ 4.3L V6 TBI, slightly bigger cam, Mild polish job and 3 angle valve job on heads, Edlebrock TES headers, Dynomax cat back, MSD 6A, ADS chip
2000 Kawasaki KX 125
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