Just wondering what the general concensus is on strut tower braces? Are they worthwhile?Which manufacturer is the best?

Steve

 

Use the edelbrock one it has an extra piece that goes to the fire wall its the only one ive seen with three points all the rest have two..

 

I have a BMR three point brace. The thing I like the most about it, is the main bar (between the towers) is one piece. No joints. This will make it stronger as there is no pivoting on the mounting bracket. Here's the link. Go to products then STB. The silver one in the pic is mine. Fair price and you can have it in different colors. L8R
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/bmr/index.htm

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Mike Schwartz aka chevymike
'92 Z28, 5.7, Teal Hardtop

"Don't Outlaw High Performance Cars,
Outlaw Low Performance Drivers!"
Mike's Camaro Z28

 

I got the Kenny Brown STB. It's cheaper than all the other 3pt braces and I like it a lot.. It's made for TPI cars. If you've got SLP runners, you'll have to shim the brace to make it fit but otherwise I like it a lot..

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Bruce Chang
ICQ #2992488
89 Firebird Trans Am
305 TPI, Jet Airfoil, Hypertech Thermomaster Chip, Edelbrock TES, Hotchkis LCA's and Panhard Rod, B&M Shift Kit, March Power Pullies, Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs, Flowmaster Muffler, Accel Super Coil, Energy Suspension motor mounts, tranny mount and torque arm bushing

 

Well I have actually done a study on this at school(Im a Mechanical Engineering Student). The Hostchkis is the best for handling purposes. The 3 pointers will only help if you are in a wreck and thing are moving other than just side to side. I could put all the calculations in this post but I will spare you, basically what is does is create a static equilibrium between the to towers that
is brken only under extreme circumstances. It forms a type of action reaction translating the force to the sub frame. If installed properly the hoints on the sides should not picot and if they do you are forfieting any gains that you would get from istallin one. It should be a gigid mount

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86 Trans Am 355 TPI Rebuilt 700R4 with Corvette servo, modified valve body, and a B&M Torque Converter (2000 rpm stall w/ lock up), 87 350 block bored .30 with new crank, bearings, rings, and magnafluxed rods. Reworked 305 heads with 3-angle valve job. Added in the rebuild was an SLP TPI cam, BBK 58mm Throttle Body,SVO 24# injectors,MSD 6A, Hypertech Power Coil, 1.5 Crane roller tipped rocker arms, SLP Intake Runners and Port matching in upper intake including fully ported plenum, TPIS adjustable fuel pressure regulator @ 46psi, Hooker shorty style headers w/ Thermotech heat wrapping, Custom 3” exhaust with Flowmaster muffler and chrome quad tips, Hypertech Thermomaster Computer chip, K&N open element cone filter on modified MAF per TPIS specs, MSD Wires, removal of A/C hardware and a 1LE firewall cover installed. Also there has been a PST front suspension kit with Hotchkis strut tower brace
http://geocities.com/SunsetStrip/Garage/9548/kyle.html

Kills:
95 Talon TSI, 96 Probe GT, 91 T/A L98, 89 RS, 86 Mustang GT, 88 Mustang LX 5.0, 92 Thunderbird V8. couple or ricers that I think were Civics or Preludes not sure what year, 95 Celica GT-S, 94 Chevy 1/4 ton 350, one of those NASCAR F150's

 

I also have the BMR 3-point. I noticed a difference after I installed the main bar. I didn't install the extra bars (to the firewall) until about a week later and I thought I could notice a difference there too. Maybe not... but nevertheless, I am quite happy with it.

Also, BMR gave me EXCELLENT customer service.

 

I think Tom Keliher and I had this discussion years ago

At this point in my experience I would say that it depends on your application. IMHO, if your car is driven on the street to any degree then I would recommend the Hotchkis STB. The fact that the Hotchkis is not one stiff piece is much better for the street. The main purpose of the STB is to prevent movement of the towers toward and away from each other. The Hotchkis brace does this. However, the Hotchkis brack has pivot points that allow the towers to move up/down. I think that these pivot points will help street cars because you don't want to put excessive stress on the towers just because you are going over speed bumps. In contrast to that, if you autocross or are a road racer, then the extra stability granted by a fully welded STB will have some benefits. In this case the benefits outweigh any extra stress you put on the towers. However, for street duty the extra stress does not outweigh the small advantage that a fully welded brace will give you.

The 3 point braces mount to the cowl. Yea ... like that area is strong. I agree with the posting about collision protection from the 3-point.

Tim

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TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.244 @ 112.51mph (1.778 60' / 7.819@88.32mph in the 1/8)
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels.
Gunning for NA 11's after installing Hooker LT Headers and reducing weight.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Moderator: PROM board at thirdgen.org

 

I decided to go a little different route. I am building my own STB out of black 3/4" water pipe which I will have the local muffler shop make the appropiate bends for on their machine. I then will weld a flat plate to each end to bolt to the top of the strut tower with aircraft quality hardware that I have an ample supply of. I will then paint it red and clear coat it to finish it off.

My Z28 is strictly for light duty street action so I am sure my simple design will be adequate for this purpose.

I just think it is much more interesting to build it yourself and make it work pretty good rather then spend a pile of money for something that is really intended for a full bore racer.

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"84Z28/'91 305TPI comp cam flowmaster TB coolant bypass/shutoff valve to heater core MAT relocated Ram-Air(home-made) gutted air-box IROC ground effects/wheels GY245/50's 700R4 superior shift kit/ corvette servo(excellent shift kit BTW) Rebuilt engine and transplanted it myself. Love this engine!
LOW performance people should drive low performance vehicles!

 

I suggest using DOM tubing, rather than plumbing pipe. Other than that it will work well for you. I would use something in the neighborhood of 1" x 0.083" round stock. It will be stronger, lighter and easier to fabricate than the plumbing.

 

I got the Edlebrock brace. Best money I ever spent. It made a huge difference in handling. Night and Day.

 

I too have the Edlebrock brace and it was well worth it. That and my SFC have been my best investment so far on the whole car. Well that and this b-quiet sound deadening stuff that I did the WHOLE car with :-) 90^2 feet of the stuff and the car sounds like a caddy inside :-)

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, Jon (91 RS too many mods to list)