When I am braking and coming to a stop the steering wheel will shake back and forth for about 3 seconds at around 30 mph. What is going on? It feels like the damn front end is about to fall out.
bsa

 

forgot my sig.

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"If they do not run, Then they will die." - Stonewall Jackson

'87 IROC, 355 TPI,700R4, Trick Flow Heads, Comp Cam, Comp 1.6 Rockers, Lucas 23# injectors, Edelbrock headers, Flowmaster 3'' exhaust, gutted cat, Mallory coil, Mallory HyFire IV ignition box, Mallory Sidewinder 8mm wires, Autolite platinum plugs, K&N filters, Transgo Performance Shift Kit, Corvette Servo, 2,000 Torque Converter

 

your rotors are warped, machine or replace them

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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd

 

warped rotors are felt through the steering column and brake pedal. it won't cause the steering wheel to go left to right. If, when braking, it feels like a wheel just bent and the car feels like it's bouncing up and down violently, you probably have a bad crack in the frame behind the steering box causing big time flexing when braking. I had this problem on my camaro.....didn't do it all the time but when it did.....HoLY**** was it time to hang on! check out the post "....popping and klunking in the frt. end". I go into a little more detail about the cracks and how to repair them. Welding it up fixed my problem!

 

I agree..also I would look everything over in the front suspension.

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Black 90 IROC, L98, A4, 323 gear. SuperRamed 406 in the works!

 

greeeeeaaaaaaatttt. well it sounds like its time to dump another ****load of cash into the money pit..........thanks for the help. I'll get that taken care of soon.
bsa

 

irocbsa, what's your best 1/4-mile et/mph with those mods? Which cam (specs if you have them) and rocker arms (ratio, model) did you get? Are the TF heads the 23-degree or the Twisted Wedge model? Thanks! I just bought the TF 23-degree heads (with the CNC'd combustion chambers) and CompCams ProMagnum 1.6 roller rockers, and just got the LT4 HOT cam the other day, as well as bunch of other parts, for my 350/355 engine buildup.

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Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 305TPI/A4

 

It's your tie-rod ends. They are worn out, and have free-play in them.

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FORMULA 350 TK
Southern California 3rd Generation F-Body Organization©

 

When I first bought my ride, the front pads needed to be replaced. After I did, I had the same problem. I replaced the front right rotor and it stopped.

Also, my entire steering linkage was recently replaced before I got the car.

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'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...

 

Violent wheel shaking like irocbsa described is not from rotor warpage. That is more like a pulsation. The violent shaking is from worn out steering components.

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FORMULA 350 TK
Southern California 3rd Generation F-Body Organization©

 

Thanks Tom, I'll check that out. I'm pretty sure it is not a crack in the frame. I'm getting no popping or klunking at low speed when turning.

Greg: My best e.t. with the 2.73 rear was 13.6 @ 100.1. I just put in the 3.42 rear and it really made the car come alive. The motor produces a whole bunch of torque and the 2.73 was really keeping it out of its power band. I'm expecting around 13.3 next time I go to the 1/4. The specs on the Comp Cam are as follows:
Duration: (@.05)

Int. Exh.
206 210

Lift:
Int. Exh.
451 480

Lobe Sep. Angle = 112

The cam will pull to about 6100 but the power tapers off at about 5600. The stock tune port has a lot to do with this I think.
As for rockers I went with Comp ProMagnum 1.6. The heads are of the Twisted Wedge variety.



[This message has been edited by irocbsa (edited December 23, 2000).]

 

I too think it's warped rotors. I know when front stearing parts get warn out they don't just shake when braking, but more so ALL the time at all speeds. My friends car has warped front rotors and it sounds to be exactly what you're experiencing. Good luck.

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, Jon (91 RS too many mods to list)