I have all the handling upgrades except for sway bars. Which one should I buy first, front or rear? How sells the best, fattest one? How much?

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1986 CAMARO Z28 -> 151,000 original miles, 43,000 on 89' vette 350 block, Holley 650 DP, Weiand intake, 1.6 rockers, 1 5/8" headers, no cat, 2 1/2" Flowmaster catback, Mallory coil, March pulleys, T5 with 3.35 1st gear and 0 miles, 90% Centerforce clutch, 3.73 posi, Eibach 1" drop springs, Spohn LCA's, Spohn adjustable panhard rod, Subframes connectors, polyurethane swaybar bushings/endlinks, 2 12" Sound Streams, 2 Infinity 6X9's, 2 Pioneer 6X9's, 800 watt Lanzar Vibe amp. ET 13.22@ 106.4MPH Next mods-> Homemade ram air, B&M shifter, Extreme Energy 230/236 cam.

 

You can get the 1LE sway bars, 36mm front 24mm rear from Van Dever's. This is about the cheapest place I have found them. The front sway bar part # is 14094344 and cost $118.88. The rear part # is 10035033 and cost 92.72. The end link kits part # is 10221779 and cost $14.43 a set. The phine number over there is 1-800-362-9494,talk to a guy named Dale and he'll hook ya up.

 

Usually, most people say do the front first. This is because an aftermarket bar with a stock rear bar will make your car 'tight' and 'push' when taking a corner really hard(understeer). Doing the rear bar first will make the car 'loose' when taking a corner(oversteer). Understeer is considered safer for unexperienced drivers--most OEM cars push when turning hard. Balance is the key, and I would put both bars on at the same time. I went with the Hellwig brand bars 4 years ago and like them(I can't imagine wanting a stiffer bar. The ride is really harsh, but it handles great. It's 1 5/16 front and I think 1 inch rear. It comes with all the hardware you need(solid end-links) and all poly bushings. The 36mil bar is bigger, but it's hollow. Not to say that's bad, it makes it lighter. It's just not as stiff as a solid 36mil bar, it they made one.

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82 camaro--original steering wheel, brake/gas pedals, seats--everything else modified
82camaro

[This message has been edited by 82camaro (edited December 24, 2000).]

 

Thanks, The front end tends to break free before the rear but I like that better than the rear breaking free, at least on the street. I have the thickest offered factory bars on my car for a Z28. I want the stiffest ones I can find, I want to pull close to 1.0 g. How much do they cost?

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1986 CAMARO Z28 -> 151,000 original miles, 43,000 on 89' vette 350 block, Holley 650 DP, Weiand intake, 1.6 rockers, 1 5/8" headers, no cat, 2 1/2" Flowmaster catback, Mallory coil, March pulleys, T5 with 3.35 1st gear and 0 miles, 90% Centerforce clutch, 3.73 posi, Eibach 1" drop springs, Spohn LCA's, Spohn adjustable panhard rod, Subframes connectors, polyurethane swaybar bushings/endlinks, 2 12" Sound Streams, 2 Infinity 6X9's, 2 Pioneer 6X9's, 800 watt Lanzar Vibe amp. ET 13.22@ 106.4MPH Next mods-> Homemade ram air, B&M shifter, Extreme Energy 230/236 cam.

 

When I got mine they were about 110 each. Don't forget about you tires, it takes good tires to handle that well. Some other stuff you might consider:

remove excess weight(the stereo stuff), it made a big difference on my car.

LCA relocation bracket with multiple adjustment holes. Drop springs mess up the rear suspension geometry and these correct it.



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82 camaro--original steering wheel, brake/gas pedals, seats--everything else modified
82camaro

 

I will live with the extra weight of the stereo Wow, only $110, cool. What were they called again? Where did you buy them? When I installed the springs I did not notice any other areas starting to lack, even though I know it changes the LCA and panhard geometry. The Panhard is adjustable, BTW. Tires, yes, I am very knowledgeable about tires (I worked at Belle Tire for a year). I currently have 245/50/15 H rated BFG Euro T/A's, basically the best handling tire made for 15's. They work really well for now, but I plan on getting a set of 285/40/17's for the rear and 275's for the front in the future. No money for that purpose right now.

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1986 CAMARO Z28 -> 151,000 original miles, 43,000 on 89' vette 350 block, Holley 650 DP, Weiand intake, 1.6 rockers, 1 5/8" headers, no cat, 2 1/2" Flowmaster catback, Mallory coil, March pulleys, T5 with 3.35 1st gear and 0 miles, 90% Centerforce clutch, 3.73 posi, Eibach 1" drop springs, Spohn LCA's, Spohn adjustable panhard rod, Subframes connectors, polyurethane swaybar bushings/endlinks, 2 12" Sound Streams, 2 Infinity 6X9's, 2 Pioneer 6X9's, 800 watt Lanzar Vibe amp. ET 13.22@ 106.4MPH Next mods-> Homemade ram air, B&M shifter, Extreme Energy 230/236 cam.

 

The LCA relocation brackets will help. But that's a whole other story. Check the "Relocation brackets (lca) are they for traction or more for cornering?
post."
I got them from summit racing(call to get a price)

Hellwig brand http://www.performancesuspension.com/swaybar.htm



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82 camaro--original steering wheel, brake/gas pedals, seats--everything else modified
82camaro

 

Those are for straight line not cornering.

 

I strongly suggest you do both sway bars at once. If you do only one, no matter which it is, you'll get totally unbalanced handling. Either severe oversteer, or severe understeer. Neither will help your overall performance, and will probably hurt it. If you must do them one at a time, then do the front...

 

I completely disagree. The relocation brackets help corning and high speed stability as well as launching.


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82 camaro--original steering wheel, brake/gas pedals, seats--everything else modified
82camaro

 

I doubt it, the panhard bar is the primary support from side to side, those relocation brackets aren't going to help from side to side, not enough to notice at least.

 

Not side to side stability, forward bite(traction). The torque applied on the car from the LCA's forces the tires down into the pavement as well as forward with the lowering brackets(the axle mount is lower than the body mount). With a lowered setup, the torque applied on the car from the LCA's forces the tires away from the pavement without the lowering brackets.(the axle mount is higher than the body mount)
Added throttle gives you added traction with the lowering brackets. That helps with cornering.
An example:
The back-end starts to come around in a corner, you get on the throttle and the back-end will bite. Without the brackets and the back-end starts to come around, if you get on the throttle it makes it worse and will spin you out.
It works.
Oh, and I didn't get the brackets to corner--that was just a really nice side effect. I got the brackets to stop my wheel hop problem, which it did.



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82 camaro--original steering wheel, brake/gas pedals, seats--everything else modified
82camaro

 

Now I see what you are saying. Yes, that's sounds right. Do they make a noticeable difference in straight line performance? My car already hooks better than a 4th gen even with the car lowered. Who did you have put them on. How much did they charge you?

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1986 CAMARO Z28 -> 151,000 original miles, 43,000 on 89' vette 350 block, Holley 650 DP, Weiand intake, 1.6 rockers, 1 5/8" headers, no cat, 2 1/2" Flowmaster catback, Mallory coil, March pulleys, T5 with 3.35 1st gear and 0 miles, 90% Centerforce clutch, 3.73 posi, Eibach 1" drop springs, Spohn LCA's, Spohn adjustable panhard rod, Subframes connectors, polyurethane swaybar bushings/endlinks, 2 12" Sound Streams, 2 Infinity 6X9's, 2 Pioneer 6X9's, 800 watt Lanzar Vibe amp. ET 13.22@ 106.4MPH Next mods-> Homemade ram air, B&M shifter, Extreme Energy 230/236 cam.

 

Greatly increase straight line traction, mainly because the wheel hop is gone. I made mine out of some scrap steel and welded them in. Spohn sells them(along with other places), but they have to be welded in.

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82 camaro--original steering wheel, brake/gas pedals, seats--everything else modified
82camaro

 

It's Dal not Dale. Or you can go to www.vandevere.com

James

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