My car barely passed state inspection, they said the front brakes were at the minimum level they need to pass. SO this week I plan on changing the brake pads and whatever else it needs. The only problem is that I need to keep it under $150. I've never done brakes before but I will have someone helping out who's done it before.

Now I have a couple of questions.. What brake pads should I buy? And It seems that there is alot of pedal needed in my car to get the brakes to catch. Is this common? When I drove a friends 99 firebird, If i tapped the brakes they seemed to grab immediatly.. What needs to be adjusted?

 

my 87 iroc seemed to take a lot of pedal travel to get the brakes to grab hold. lot of people sell pads, auto zone for 20 dollars on up. all depends on what you want to spend. i think i paid 35 dollars for a rotor last year.

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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd

 

92fireaudio,
I would definitely replace the brake pads. Go to AutoZone or any automotive store and get a set of brake pads (front and rear) Get a Chilton’s Camaro manual and read up on it prior to doing the brake job. It is cheaper to replace the pads now then to replace the rotors or drums do to thin pads. Took me 2 hours the first time to replaced both front pads but I wanted to take it slow and made sure it was done right. Once you are done, bleed the brake line. This should fix the problem you have the pedal play.

 

Which axle almost didn't pass, the front or the back? Sound like you just need pads or shoes. Mine usualy cost about $13 for either. Their cheap, get a book or have someone that know how to change them help you, then the next time you can do it yourself in almost no time at all.

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1985 Camaro IROC-Z LB9

1989 Pontiac Firebird
Formula W6S LO3 TBI 305
-180 degree stat
-Hooker Cat-Back

 

i agree with the autozone brakes. they're lifetime guaranteed. also, buy a 3/8" drive to allen wrench adapter. it will save a lot of trouble. on the front brakes, i use a c-clamp and a piece of wood to compress the cylinder.(if you take the brake fluid lid off, do this slowly or it'll spray out--i don't take the lid off). once the caliper is flush, just slide the brakes in and slide it on the rotor. bolt up. do the same to the other side. bolt on the tires and you're done. you shouldn't have to bleed your brakes if you do it this way.(you may want to just for practice). just turn your car on and pump your brakes. you may need to add some fluid.

good luck

thadd

 

It was the front axle that almost didn't pass..

I went to autozone today and looked at the brake pads. They sell Z-rated pads for $39.99 and they sell almost stock pads for $15.. Would it be worth it to buy the "z-rated" pads?

ALso, could somebody explain how to bleed the brake lines?

 

no, do not buy the Z rated, either performance friction or albanys.(MKD154) i would also have the rotors turned down, and repack your bearings(or replace if worn) procedure should be in haynes or chiltons. just make sure not to wrench down on the spindle nut. as far as bleeding. if the wheel cylinders in back are sound(not leaking) then you just need to concentrate on the front two wheels. have a 3/8wrench, a 2ft length of clear(or fuel)5/16 or 3/8 hose, and a clear bottle quarter full with brake fluid. (make sure to keep an eye on the master cyl level, as you are draining it slowly.) have your significant other(who will be complaining about the greasy, slick driveway the ENTIRE way to the car)pump the brake pedal 10 times the hold the pedal to the floor. while they are holding it, with the hose connected to the bleeder crew and the other end submerged in the clear bottle, open the bleeder screw until the rush of fluid is over(about 2 seconds) then close it and repeat until no more air bubbles are present.
have fun, and keep an eye on that fluid
mike

 

You can probably get away with just replacing the linings (pads), but the rotors should be checked. If you can, get a micrometer and check the rotor for minimum thickness (refer to Haynes/Chiltons for minimum thickness or it might say on the rotor). If no grooves or unusual marks, they are probably OK. It is fairly simple to do. Do not get any dirt or grease on the linings or rotors. Just make sure to use a grease (Permatex Anti-Seize is the best) on the caliper slides.

BTW - There is no need to bleed the brakes. The only time you would need to do so is when you open up the brake lines to replace them or the caliper.

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1985 Z28, Jasper Class 1 350, Edelbrock Performer intake, Dual snorkel air cleaner, K&N, Edelbrock headers, Catco 3" cat, Hooker 3" cat-back, Richmond 3.73's, Transgo shift kit, JET Stage 2 chip, Hypertech coil, Lakewood LCA's, Powertrax locker, SSM subframes, Centerline Auto Drag's

 

You cant beat Autozone or Advance autoparts for their prices. Most of it is Lifetime warranteed also.