Here's a good one for ya. I was trying to figure out why I have so much play in my steering.
When a friend and I started to try to put my Comp Engineering SFC's in (We said screw it, too much cutting. Sent em back) we happened to notice something.

Right where the Pitman arm connects to the Relay Rod/Centerlink is way loose. The nut on top is tight but the linkage moves up and down a lot. Obviously the connection is bad.

Ok here's the Question.
Is there supposed to be a bushing in there? If so, does it come in the Energy Suspension master kit?

From what I can gather from the parts store, they don't carry a bushing for that. You have to buy a completely new Relay Rod/Centerlink. Those range from 90-125.

Thanx for your help
Randy the Suspension Challenged. heheh

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Randy
84 Trans AM LG4, 700R4 T-tops
1984 Z28 L69, 5 Spd, T-tops
"Don't sweat the petty things...Just pet the sweaty things"

 

I can't answer your question but I would like to ask you one. Can you describe the Competition Engineering sfc's? What did they require cutting, the car or the connectors? I was thinking of getting those or making my own.

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350 Vortec, forged flat-tops, CompCams XE268, Edlebrock RPM, Holley 3310, TH350 w/Holeshot 2400, 3.23 posi, Heddman shorties, HEI

 

I'm not really answering your question directly, but have you had a shop check out your linkage? The idler arm (fake pitman arm on passenger side) usually wears out, and needs to be replaced. That can tighten up the steering a bit. I don't know how to tell if one's shot; my alignment shop mentioned it to me one day, and I had them replace it. I've also heard of it being replaced on other f-bodies, so I wasn't a lone problem.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

There is no bushing on the pitman arm or idler arm. They attach in the same manner as the tie-rods. If you've got that much "slop" in your linkage, chances are that your centerlink is in fact worn out and that should only be caused by loose/damaged components. As for the idler arm, only way I really know how to check it is if it swivels real easy once you disconnect the centerlink. A new one is hard as hell to move...

KAM

 

To check the idler arm:
Grab hold of the arm where it mounts to the center link and push up and down. If it has play, it is shot. The arm should not have any movement up or down.

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87 IROC 350, 3:42 Torsen, pocket ported 083 heads, complete Edelbrock exhaust, Most free mods, Most little mods, aluminum d/s. Edelbrock STB, SSM sfc's, boxed rear suspension pieces, urethane bushings everywhere.
Stock cam, chip, runners, base, and trans
13.94@103mph, 2.25 60'
In the works: ported SLP runners, ported base, Xtreme Cam, homemade suspension pieces, and 27x10 Hoosiers.
Goal: 12.999

 

Thanks for the info on checking the idler arm!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

OK. Eric
The Competition Engineering SFC's are worthless in my opinion. They are a straight piece of 2" square tubing with a bracket welded on the end.
You would have to cut your floorpan starting at the tranny crossmember pretty much all the way back. So a 2" strip about 2-3 feet long on BOTH sides. Not worth the effort at all when there are other ones that don't cost that much more and require NO modification.


OK. On to the steering part. The Pitman arm seems fine. I haven't check the Idler arm yet. I just know that with everything connected normally, you can move the centerlink up and down a lot on the drivers side (pitman arm) The car was in a small accident before I bought it. Seems they slid into a pole. Dented the Fender and damaged the front clip. I imagine that might've cause the damage to the centerlink.

No shop has looked at it yet because I refuse to pay the hourly rates. Just a personal thing. I'll start with replacing the centerlink first. Worst case I'll have to replace the pitman also. Idler side SEEMS fine but I guess I'll find out.
BTW Having a Shop manual is TONS better than just a chiltons/haynes. LOL
Thanx guys.

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Randy
84 Trans AM LG4, 700R4 T-tops
1984 Z28 L69, 5 Spd, T-tops
"Don't sweat the petty things...Just pet the sweaty things"

 

Well here's the update. Schucks had a Centerlink for $50 with a lifetime warranty so I got that and will put it in this weekend. Hopefully this will take care of the problem.
Thanx again guys.
Randy


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Randy
84 Trans AM LG4, 700R4 T-tops
1984 Z28 L69, 5 Spd, T-tops
"Don't sweat the petty things...Just pet the sweaty things"

 

Will be nice to know, Ive got a similar problem.



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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Livin' the Stereotype

 

Ok. Got the new centerlink in and.... The Problem Is Fixed!!!! Woohoo.

Apparently what had happened is this....
The tapered bolt that sticks out from the centerlink and goes through the pitman arm was broken inside allowing it to move all over the place.

So now I have VERY little play in my steering. Nice to feel safe at high speeds again. hehehe
BTW Got it aligned and didn't have enough adjustment. Pls see my new post on Alignment if you know anything about it.
Thanx guys
Randy

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Randy
84 Trans AM LG4, 700R4 T-tops
1984 Z28 L69, 5 Spd, T-tops
"Don't sweat the petty things...Just pet the sweaty things"