Help, blasted strut nut!
Help, blasted strut nut!
Any tips or tricks for getting the nut off the top of my strut? I can't believe how tight this thing is on, it's not a reverse thread is it? I have already rounded the tip of the post with vice grips. I haven't screwed up the nut yet but I can't get it to budge,squirted it with penetrant, hit it with hammer to set up vibes, still can't loosten it. Any ideas? Thought about cutting the nut off, does a new nut come with the struts, been so long I don't recall. Cheers.
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1984 Camaro Z-28 LG-4
Q-Jet, dual snorkel air intake, underdrive crank pulley, Hypertech Street chip, SLP y-pipe and 3" cat back with hi-flow converter, Edelbrock Performer intake,Accel ignition. Running better now.
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1984 Camaro Z-28 LG-4
Q-Jet, dual snorkel air intake, underdrive crank pulley, Hypertech Street chip, SLP y-pipe and 3" cat back with hi-flow converter, Edelbrock Performer intake,Accel ignition. Running better now.
all of them i ever did were easy to get off. i used a wrench on the nun and on the strut and they came off with no problems. i always take the bottom lose first. if that would matter.
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 2
From: Vereinigten Staaten
Car: Take
Engine: Your
Transmission: Pick
I usually hit the nut with the Impact Wrench and its gone in 2 seconds. The new struts do come with new nuts unless you bought some crappy brand.
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'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey, 22# injectors,
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If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen
ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA
'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey, 22# injectors,
JET AFPR, Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass, Custom Cold Air,
SSM SFC, KYB Shocks, Boxed LCAs, Wonder Bar,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
-->14.97 @ 94.9 MPH<--
'97 Bonneville SSE
Well, i've done them before too and they have always been a b**ch to get off. I've resorted to the dremel on the one,it's like the things have welded themselves on, i totally rounded off the top part with vice grips and just gave up. Yes an impact wrench would've been nice but I don't have any air tools. I'll keep chipping away with the dremel and a chisel. Cheers.
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1984 Camaro Z-28 LG-4
Q-Jet, dual snorkel air intake, underdrive crank pulley, Hypertech Street chip, SLP y-pipe and 3" cat back with hi-flow converter, Edelbrock Performer intake,Accel ignition. Running better now.
------------------
1984 Camaro Z-28 LG-4
Q-Jet, dual snorkel air intake, underdrive crank pulley, Hypertech Street chip, SLP y-pipe and 3" cat back with hi-flow converter, Edelbrock Performer intake,Accel ignition. Running better now.
You didn't say if you were replacing the strut or if you were taking apart for another reason. If you're replacing the struts, you can use vise grips on the piston rod to hold it while you loosen the nut with an impact. No need to worry about damaging the rod if it's getting replaced. If you aren't replacing the struts, that's another story.
replacing it for new ones. I already went the vise grip route, still couldn't budge it and I bench over 300. It was just stuck. Ended up taking a dremel to it and bought some cold steel chisels to finish it off when I get more time. In the past, I think a propane torch helped get it loose also. Thanks.
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1984 Camaro Z-28 LG-4
Q-Jet, dual snorkel air intake, underdrive crank pulley, Hypertech Street chip, SLP y-pipe and 3" cat back with hi-flow converter, Edelbrock Performer intake,Accel ignition. Running better now.
------------------
1984 Camaro Z-28 LG-4
Q-Jet, dual snorkel air intake, underdrive crank pulley, Hypertech Street chip, SLP y-pipe and 3" cat back with hi-flow converter, Edelbrock Performer intake,Accel ignition. Running better now.
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, IL
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700-R4
Hel! try MAPP gas or oxygen!! Especially in cold weather always use some kind of torch on stuck nuts/bolts...but I'd keep the flame away from the strut body itself!
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Base: 89 Iroc-Z LB9 auto 2.73 posi
Exh: 3" Dynomax muffler, 3" Pipe in place of cat
Ign: Accel 300+ wires, cap&rotor
Fuel: Cleaned and flow-matched injectors, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve
Sound: Clarion deck, Kicker speakers and amps
Suspension: KYB Shocks, BMR Strut Tower Brace
Misc: TB Bypass, Synthetic Oil, Flexlite Transmission cooler,
free mods, hopefully engine swap and 4th gen seats in the works...
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Base: 89 Iroc-Z LB9 auto 2.73 posi
Exh: 3" Dynomax muffler, 3" Pipe in place of cat
Ign: Accel 300+ wires, cap&rotor
Fuel: Cleaned and flow-matched injectors, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve
Sound: Clarion deck, Kicker speakers and amps
Suspension: KYB Shocks, BMR Strut Tower Brace
Misc: TB Bypass, Synthetic Oil, Flexlite Transmission cooler,
free mods, hopefully engine swap and 4th gen seats in the works...
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Member

Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 322
Likes: 2
From: Sweaburg, ON Canada
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: 305
Transmission: T-5
If you're replacing the struts, take out the bolts at the bottom (which to me is a lot harder) and remove the strut tower bearing nuts at the top, then lift the whole thing out. You should be able to You'll probably have better luck removing the strut from the bearing once it's out.
i think mine had never been taken out and i took the impact to them and in a matter of seconds they were off.
Maybe get a breaker bar on there and hit it with a hammer to try to free it up. Good luck anyway.
Maybe get a breaker bar on there and hit it with a hammer to try to free it up. Good luck anyway.
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