guys,im finished and need help.i ve been talking to a few guys via pm but still no answers. wheel hop.i mean filling busting wheel hop,the kind that cost me a rear sprag and planetary set last year. ive read every post and still no answer ,heres the set up

spohn torque arm with heim joint front seperate crossmember

umi tubular control arms

umi tubular panhard bar

hotchkis 1" lower spring

tried 2 sets of shocks, first kyb g2 ,second comp engineering adjustable drag shocks set on all 3 settings

nitto 555r tires.

pinion angle was "set" but i havent confirmed it yet but im told that dont effect wheel hop

lower control arm brackets. tried both holes

heres an observation. on the street theres not much wheel hop if any,just spinning. on the strip i notice it way more if im heating the tars up. from what i read the more traction the greater the hop is which is consistent with what im seeing

all the parts are new/good condition

could it be the shocks still? were the kybs too soft and could the comp shocks not be working well with the front struts. theyr kyb also and not drag structs?

car has 500 hp.2800 stall....last year i was able to cut a few 1.7s but that was hammer down thru the wheel hop which cost me a trans. i see 10 and 9 second cars here running stock stuff w/o an issue. whay am i having issues...pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

oh ,if it matters 4.10 posi

 

pinion angle has a big affect on wheel hop , I've read that when you lower your car you need to get the relocation brackets for the lower control arms . Just a little info I've never dealt with this on my camaro but did on my lowered S-10 and traction bars helped because it keeps the pinion from pointing down too far.

 

Hello
Like mentioned above you are going to need go with a set of relocation brackets. They will allow you to adjust the control arm back to the correct position seeing how your arms are angled at the incorrect angle due to the lowering springs. And when you install the brackets they will adjust the control arms back to correct angle which will gain you back your traction performance. And eliminate wheel hop. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...dex&cPath=6_85

If you have any other questions feel free to ask.
Thanks
Brad

 

it says he has relocation brackets and he tried both settings. i'd assume there'd be no wheel hop since you bought all the right parts

 

Hello
I am sorry I overlooked that! But there are so many factors that come into play such as spring and shock combo, and tire pressure. Lowering springs are nice if you are looking to cut corners, But not all shocks (especially drag shocks) are not valved for those particular springs. Just another suggestion is I would replace the rear spring with the stock spring. And if you are looking for a lowered look go with the heater hose mod. That's just my .

Thanks
Brad

 

what spring rate did you use on the rear (just looked again...Hotchkis springs should be ok, still don't know the rate, but...)? what do you have up front (springs and struts)?

 

Get rid of the Nittos and lowering springs!

 

Your rear spring rate is too soft for launch. THe car is grabbing and squating the rear of the car and inverting the LCA angles causing wheel hop. The more traction you get, the harder this effeect will happen. You will need heavier spring rates to keep the rear highet more consistant to handle the power and grip.

Best you have someone video tape your launch from the side with the video pointed at the rear tires. You may even be shock loading the sidewalls of the rear tires from too much LCA angle in the positive anlge if you set them too low. THis will cause the chassis weight to jump onto the tires and squish them momentarily and then they recoil bouncing off the ground like a hoppity hop.

Dean

 

ok a few points

junkl the nittos? ive heard that before but a tire dont induce wheel hop and there are guys much faster than me running nittos w/o wheel hop.

stiffer springs? anyone have a recommendation?

ive tried both holes on the brackets.no good.i had a 8 second drag racer look at it and he said they might be too low ,the control arms and loading up the tires too much which is why i moved them back up,either way it didnt help

the control arms are almost level now with a slight downward pitch,very slight if any from front to rear.

has anyone switch from nittos and wheel hop to another tire and rid themselve of the wheel hop? i first had eagle f1s last year and if i recall right they hopped also at the track..

i give up....i see otehr guys here running the same springs,shocks,tires and they are going fine,,me..im cursed..............

 

1" Lowered Front 600 lb/in, 1" Lowered Rear 100-140 lb/in V8 Only

them are the springs i have..too light out back? if so any recommend a stiffer one? its a street only car for the most part so i dont want no drag racing only spring..............front struts kyb g2

 

Stiffer springs, LOL.

For a drag car run stock v6 rear springs they work fine. What you want to end up whith is the longest lightest rated spring you can find to give you the most stored energy and help separate the tires from the car at launch (which will eliminate wheel hop).

You cant have the best of both worlds (street/strip) but if you want a drag car with no wheel hop ditch the nittos and lowering springs and see where you are at.

 

If you are looking to keep it as a lowered street car with occational strip fun get your suspension geometry correct.

Buy the lower control arm reloaction brackets and get your control arms sloped down to the rear end. And confirm/set your pinion angle around -2.5.

Also check out the stickies in the beginning of the suspesion section, "rear lower control arm" I think it may be called will show you how the rear suspension works.

 

i have the brackets,always had. theyre weld in . i had thwm last year with the bars in the lowest hole. the arm slopped downward like youre talking. it hopped just as bad if not worse. a pro dragger said they might be too low and biting in too hard and try to move them up which i did this year to the top hole. bars are more level but still hops around.

 

surprised it hasn't been mentioned... subframe connectors? possible body flex might cause it. what good is a stiff suspension on a flimsy car?

 

it has subframe connectors,weld in...........this is my point..im at a loss. it ahs al lthe goodies yet theyre not working right and i dont want to keep swapping **** out that wont work

 

I'll throw this out there for what it's worth. My car is a bone stock tpi/5 speed car with sticky Sumitomo HTR-Z tires-160 treadwear-and Koni reds on the rear. The car only runs 14.60's and these tires actually have a bit too much bite for the car. Anyway, if I get the tires in the water box it wheel hops like mad no matter what I do-if it drive around the water and keep the tires dry it never wheel hops at all, and it never hops on the street.

 

Do a search and calculate your "instant center" if you want to get technical. I also run my control arms in the bottom holes but I am running a drag only set up with drag radials and I hit the tires hard off the line.

The thing about third gen rear suspension is that it separates on launch forcing the tires into the ground. So if in the bottom holes on the brackets you more then likely have an IC greater then 100% hitting the tires hard. Remember the tire has to take the initial hit then it us up to you rear shocks to keep them planted and not hop (tires hit hard will bounce like a basket ball). If you only have a single adjustable shock you can alter compression but to effectively hold the power to the ground you also need to control rebound.

 

i saw some 7 way adjustable shocks,think they kyb or konis..they good? tell me i dont have to junk the nittos?

anyways i measured the pinion angle today..first the car doesnt have to be perfectly level ground does it?since your only looking for a difference between the 2 measurements it doesnt matter if the car is flat or not right? asl ong as the suspension is loadeD?

anyways i measure -1 drive shaft -3 pinion. im suppose to subtract the 2 pin-drive..ok -3 - -1 i thought in math terms was -4? or is it simply -3 - -1 =-2 which spohn recommends for a higher horsepower car...any help guys pleaseeeeeeeeeeeee

 

from what i've read the nitto tires are for road racing which means the have a stiff side wall. that is the opposite of what you need for drag racing.

 

nitto makes road race tires and drag radials

 

but the 555r is not a drag tire

 

According to Nitto's website the NT555R is a drag tire

 

the aspect ratios they have are not drag friendly. yes the tread and compound are soft and sticky but the side wall dont flex enough. i think his tires are the problem.

 

dont throw the nittos away just put them somewhere for like a road course day or street driving and get some other tires for drag i see that at the raceway daily a car with drag radials on some beat rims with some nice rims and street tires up front it would prolly help you that way just buy some cheap rims and mount some drag tires on it