Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

SERIOUS traction problem...please help

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Old 02-28-2001, 10:13 AM
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Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 434
Transmission: PG
Axle/Gears: 4.33
SERIOUS traction problem...please help

OK, I have a large traction problem. I have all of the usual suspension stuff:

LCA, panhard rod, air bags in springs, sub frames, Spohn Torque arm, poly bushings everywhere.

I have BF goodrich Comp TA's 255/50R16's

I also have a solid roller cammed 406.

Problem is traction around town...no matter what I do tires just spin. The rear doen not hop but the tires offer no traction.

Are Drag Radials really that good?
Old 02-28-2001, 12:55 PM
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I'd venture to say LCA relocation brakets and better tires. I've heard those BF's aren't that great for launching. Good Luck

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Old 02-28-2001, 01:23 PM
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Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 434
Transmission: PG
Axle/Gears: 4.33
?
Old 02-28-2001, 01:24 PM
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Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 434
Transmission: PG
Axle/Gears: 4.33
Do lower control arm relocaion brackets work very well? will i notice a difference?
Old 02-28-2001, 04:01 PM
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Gah those Tires are Horrible for launching

I could spin them through 3rd gear with my LG4 before i even touched the motor.



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Old 02-28-2001, 05:46 PM
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Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
When does the spinning occur? When cornering? Taking off? If it happens when cornering, you may want to look into a new posi. I don't know what you're running now, but a HD torsen or an Auburn will help alot. Also, tire condition is 50% of the hookup factor. Obviously damp or extreem humidity won't help, but what about the front end? The front and the rear need to work together in order to hook-up. That means good struts, shocks, springs, bushings, etc. My '86 IROC doesn't hook well over 2200, but it's not built to. It's built to handle, not hook. Look into everything, even endlinks will affect traction (by a small degree). Weight distribution can make or break you. You said you had a 406...if you make alot of low-end torque and you run low gears like 3.73+, you may need stickier tires or a higher gear, or both.
Old 02-28-2001, 05:48 PM
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Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
I'm not sure about the lower control arm mounting brackets, I believe they are only for lowered cars. a torque arm and a poly torque arm bushing and trans mount help, too.
Old 02-28-2001, 08:39 PM
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Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 434
Transmission: PG
Axle/Gears: 4.33
The spinning is only in a straight line. If am going around 35-40 mph and hit it down, the rear tires spin. It is not the posi, I have a new Strange 12-bolt with 33 spline axels and posi with 4.10 gears.

The suspension is set to hook up, Lakewood 70/30 drag struts in front, 50/50 shocks in rear, poly bushings everywhere.
Old 03-04-2001, 05:32 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Fastbird:
The spinning is only in a straight line. If am going around 35-40 mph and hit it down, the rear tires spin. It is not the posi, I have a new Strange 12-bolt with 33 spline axels and posi with 4.10 gears.

The suspension is set to hook up, Lakewood 70/30 drag struts in front, 50/50 shocks in rear, poly bushings everywhere.
</font>
You just said your problem....4.10 gears!
why do you have 4.10 gears with a 406 motor.
You need 3.42's at the most.
Ya just got too much torque for that low of gearing.
If that motor is half as stout as a 406 should be with 4.10 gears you'll have to tub your damn car out and put bigger tires back there to hook.
Old 03-04-2001, 07:08 PM
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Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 434
Transmission: PG
Axle/Gears: 4.33
There are several reasons I decided to go with 4.11 gears. One being the weight of the car (3600) the other is that the cam makes power higher than usual 3500-7000 rpms. with 3.42s you would be WELL below the optimum RPM going through the traps of the quarter mile. So the gears are the right ones for the car's engine combination.
Old 03-05-2001, 12:04 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Fastbird:
There are several reasons I decided to go with 4.11 gears. One being the weight of the car (3600) the other is that the cam makes power higher than usual 3500-7000 rpms. with 3.42s you would be WELL below the optimum RPM going through the traps of the quarter mile. So the gears are the right ones for the car's engine combination.</font>
Well...I understand your reasonings for you 4.11's. What size tire are you running. Your engine combination is just a little too radical for me too help you any. I take it that your car is carberated.

I'm running a 406 tpi Iroc. I was able to knock the weight down to 3400lbs with me in it. I'm running a special cut cam with about 268 advertised lift. G2 twisted wedge heads. With a heavily ported stock intake and plennum. My gear ratio is 3.42 and running a 26 inch tire at the track. It should be running optimum rpms at the trap in a quarter. This combo ought to give me low 12's in a 1/4. And should be very streetable also.

Have you worked on your weight transfer?


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Old 03-05-2001, 12:17 PM
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Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 434
Transmission: PG
Axle/Gears: 4.33
Hey thanks for the response. I am running DFI with a miniram. It is a 406 with a solid roller cam with 242/250 duration @ 0.050 with 0.657"/0.600" lift. The heads are ported out Wold Product Sportsman IIs with 2.08/1.625 valves.

I have 26" slicks on the car when it is on the track. There is it fine. with the lakewood struts and shocks, weight transfer is good but I leave the sway bars intact.
Old 03-05-2001, 02:18 PM
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Car: 1992 Camaro Z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10 GM 7.5 10-bolt
Put a tennis ball under your gas pedal.

Better yet, sell me your motor, miniram, and DFI for $500 and I'll give you my old 305. Problem solved.

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Old 03-05-2001, 07:00 PM
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Car: 89 FORMULA 350, 91 Z28 Convertible
Engine: ls1, LB9
Transmission: t56, Auto
Axle/Gears: S60/ 3.73
I have the same promblem. I hate it. it was fun at first but, now it is just down right stupid! I am only running a 350 tpi, bw wc t-5 ,3.23 posi rear, 52mm throttle body slp 480 487 cam slp 1 3/4 headers and borla muffler and 305 heads with 194 stainless valves ported polished ect. but, no matter how low of rpm's I launch at it just bakes them. I guess the 305 heads give a lot more tourque than I thought. any ways some one told me that I could lengthen my lower control arms and it would pivot the rear diff. pinion down giving me better traction. now the problem with that is how much longer do they have to be?
Old 03-07-2001, 08:30 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Fastbird:
Hey thanks for the response. I am running DFI with a miniram. It is a 406 with a solid roller cam with 242/250 duration @ 0.050 with 0.657"/0.600" lift. The heads are ported out Wold Product Sportsman IIs with 2.08/1.625 valves.

I have 26" slicks on the car when it is on the track. There is it fine. with the lakewood struts and shocks, weight transfer is good but I leave the sway bars intact.
</font>
Sounds like kick *** setup.
-You'd be amazed how much the sway bar effects.. It's hold the front end down. Cann't blame you if you don't wanna take it off. But, you should try it some time, at least once, it makes a huge difference in weight transfer.

-Drag radials are AWESOME!!!! try some 275 R15 50's.
-take the front crash bumper off...Helps weight transferr. Knocks off 30 lbs off the front. Then again cann't blame you if you don't.
-there's 25 pounds a door of crash braces in the door.(hint, hint) cann't blame you for not taking them out either.
-haven't tried it, but I read were drag launch springs can help as much as 3 tenths off the e.t. for a third gen.. heard it helps alot
-weight transferr helps tremendously but it definately sacrifices handling. But drag racing depends on it!
-a good back suspension isn't worth a damn without the right front suspension and loosing wieght on the front end.
Got a buddy with a 406 miniram with the fel-pro speed pro system. It's a hydrolic roller. It's a mean set up.

I've done all of these I said including back crash bumper, battery relocation, aluminum heads, fiberglass hood, air bags, reinforced stock lca. Really helps the old 406 tpi hook. But then again it's more of a weekend warrior than a daily driver.
Old 03-08-2001, 06:05 AM
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Car: '89 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt w/ 4.10 and Eaton Posi
If you talk to Spohn about one of the first things you should set up on your car... one of his first response is the LCA relocation Bracket....

Kind of makes you think...

And he suggests it for lowered car as a must to correct geometry, but also for non-lowered cars for traction....

I am still waiting for a couple of weeks to put my on, and I definitely have traction problems with my car.....

------------------
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Old 03-08-2001, 09:10 PM
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I agree - the LCA relocation kit is a must on a car like this. Also you already said that the car hooks fine on the track with slicks. This proves the importance of tire selection. Your regular street radials don't stand a chance on this car no matter what suspension mods are performed !! A drag radial would be the minimum requirement on your combo. An ET Street type tire will hook much better, almost as good as a slick.
Old 03-13-2001, 12:07 PM
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What do you have your pinion angle set at?
I use -6* all the time......but I'm not interested in the length of time the "U" joints last..... I also have the LCA relocation brackets and they are a MUST for a lowered car....

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Old 03-13-2001, 12:40 PM
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Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 434
Transmission: PG
Axle/Gears: 4.33
I have it set at -2 for the street and -4 for the track. I have not gotten LCA relocation brackets yet but am seriously considering them. I have just ordred Nitto 555r's for the rear. I will keep you all posted on how well they work.
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