Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Tiffin, OH
Car: '85 Iroc-Z, '03 Z71
Engine: Blown 383, 323 SBC
Transmission: 700r4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: GU6 3.42, G80 3.73
Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
Anybody got an opinion on shocks and struts? I would like a decent, reasonably priced set that will work well on the street/strip.
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From: Avatar: My 34' 1989 Scarab III w/ twin 454's (502's Started!)
Car: 1989 Wellcraft Scarab III
Engine: Twin 454's
Axle/Gears: Twin Mercruiser Bravo I's
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
Moving to suspension board.
Best wishes to you.
Best wishes to you.
Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 229
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From: NW Ohio
Car: 1986 Trans-Am
Engine: 305 4 bbl
Transmission: 700R4 auto
Axle/Gears: posi
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
Just put some monroe sensitrac struts and shocks on a few weeks ago. Seem to work very nicely and are cheap too!!!!
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 51
From: Enschede, Netherlands
Car: 82 TA 87 IZ L98 88 IZ LB9 88 IZ L98
Engine: 5.7TBI 5,7TPI 5.0TPI, 5,7TPI
Transmission: T5, 700R4, T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.27, 3.45, 3.27
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
Konis. Now before anyone starts yelling they aren't cheap. They are not, but they last a lifetime so if you have to replace your cheap set every couple of years (and maybe pay to have it done) ???? Maybe cheaper now but in the long run......
Member
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Cordova, TN
Car: 1989 Pontiac Formula 350
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
I just installed some KYB GR2 shocks and they are great. Spending much more than $50 for a pair of shock is stupid.
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 51
From: Enschede, Netherlands
Car: 82 TA 87 IZ L98 88 IZ LB9 88 IZ L98
Engine: 5.7TBI 5,7TPI 5.0TPI, 5,7TPI
Transmission: T5, 700R4, T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.27, 3.45, 3.27
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
yea, just like spending money on brakes, stupid, nobody sees it unless they go and lie down, better spent on bling
Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 155
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From: Cordova, TN
Car: 1989 Pontiac Formula 350
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
Don't be an ****. Unless you are racing the car stock replacements or a little better than stock is better than fine. Not everybody needs to spend a fortune on ridiculous brake upgrades or billstein shocks when they will NEVER need them. Just pissing money away.
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From: Everett, WA
Car: 87' IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
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From: Everett, WA
Car: 87' IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
Weird. I must admit I have not used the Bilsteins. But my Konis are way more comfortable than the new Gabrial Ryders that were on the car. Different people do have different opinions of comfortable though.
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Joined: May 2008
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1987 Red IROC-Z Hardtop
Engine: Bolt on 305TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
They just had a sale on tire rack for Koni yellow struts and shocks 25% off! cant beat that. I bought mine a couple days before the sale ended and i only paid 640$ total for all 4.
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 51
From: Enschede, Netherlands
Car: 82 TA 87 IZ L98 88 IZ LB9 88 IZ L98
Engine: 5.7TBI 5,7TPI 5.0TPI, 5,7TPI
Transmission: T5, 700R4, T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.27, 3.45, 3.27
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
Yes, $160 a shock for the only shock you will ever have to buy again. Pretty good deal if you ask me.
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 92
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1987 Red IROC-Z Hardtop
Engine: Bolt on 305TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1987 Red IROC-Z Hardtop
Engine: Bolt on 305TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 51
From: Enschede, Netherlands
Car: 82 TA 87 IZ L98 88 IZ LB9 88 IZ L98
Engine: 5.7TBI 5,7TPI 5.0TPI, 5,7TPI
Transmission: T5, 700R4, T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.27, 3.45, 3.27
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
there was 1 rear shock on ebay just now, went for 2.50 I couldn't bid, the guy had bidder restrictions set for non us bidders so there are deals out there. Would have made a nice spare part.
Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 155
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From: Cordova, TN
Car: 1989 Pontiac Formula 350
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
Big problem of this board is the failure to differentiate between someone who uses their camaro/bird for cruising around town and those who are using it for racing. Different parts are needed for each and the most expensive are not always the best for both.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 1
From: Central FL
Car: 91 Camaro
Engine: 3.1...not hardly stock
Transmission: 700r4....not stock either
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
Well for $160 for all four I can say the exact same thing and put the $500 savings into another project/part.
Big problem of this board is the failure to differentiate between someone who uses their camaro/bird for cruising around town and those who are using it for racing. Different parts are needed for each and the most expensive are not always the best for both.
Big problem of this board is the failure to differentiate between someone who uses their camaro/bird for cruising around town and those who are using it for racing. Different parts are needed for each and the most expensive are not always the best for both.
Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Cordova, TN
Car: 1989 Pontiac Formula 350
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
You missed two things... it has been pointed out that the Konis ride better than a cheap strut/shock. Smoother ride...that's probably something "someone who uses their camaro/bird for cruising around town" would want! Also, the OP said "street/strip"! So, he's not only cruising around town.
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From: Everett, WA
Car: 87' IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
Let me guess, you would also advocate the cheapest tires, oil, airfilter, internal engine parts. Right?
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1987 Red IROC-Z Hardtop
Engine: Bolt on 305TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
i think what he means is, if its not a full out drag/autocross competition car its overkill to spend money on the best top of the line parts correct me if im wrong. Do it once, do it right is what i always say
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 51
From: Enschede, Netherlands
Car: 82 TA 87 IZ L98 88 IZ LB9 88 IZ L98
Engine: 5.7TBI 5,7TPI 5.0TPI, 5,7TPI
Transmission: T5, 700R4, T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.27, 3.45, 3.27
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
I have 1 car w/ original bilstein/delcos, 1 car with cheap kybs, one car with monroe junk and 1 with konis. The konis are by far the best and the stock one (it's a low miles car, only 50K on it) is a distant secon. the rest doesn't even compare.
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 588
Likes: 83
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 2012 LS9
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Strange 60 3.54:1
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
What people fail to reailze is "stupid" is in the eye of the beholder... Stupid is the lack of understanding or being able to understand something. This can be due to mental capacity or beng open minded enough to understand someone elses reasoning.
When you ask for good, Monroe should not be used in the same sentence. You are only fooling yourself.
When you ask for cheap, KONI should not be mentioned, unless you consider lifetime cost as mentioned above. I questioned the high costs myself.
I have numerous performance cars & have used many shocks. For handling, KONI & Bilstein rate at the top. There are more expensive ones out there (custom valved, etc.) as well, but lets concentrate on these. If you run stiff springs, then you need a better shock to control it. You may be able to get by with a KYB in many cases, but there will be some concession to handling. Had both & my daily driver now has KONI shocks on it & the difference was worth it in my opinion. Numerous passengers commented on the improvement as well. Would I do it again? Yes, without hesitation, but I do plan to have this car for many years.
As for Gabriel & Monroe, you get what you pay for. They work OK for a mall cruiser or a regular passenger car, but I was not impressed in the Monroe struts that I put on my wifes car. In 2 years they were worse than the 8yr old struts that they replaced. They were better than the worn out ones (for a little while), but I would never put them on another car that I plan to keep for any length of time... like throwing money (& labor) away. I figured my wife drives cautiously & would never benefit from "performance" parts... except they wore out too soon. I would expect shocks to outlast a set of tires.
As for KYB, they are decent shocks. Do not expect them to last forever, but they are OK for the average performance car. For the price, they work well & most will be happy with them. If you plan to autocross or track the car, these are not the proper choice. I ran KYB's on my Blazer & a few of my other cars. I also do not race these or try to corner as fast as possible, but try to maintain a reasonable monetary investment, but still want decent parts. Many do not drive that agressively, so you may not notice the difference. If you only bought the lowering springs to make the car look good you will be OK. If you are trying to keep the car from breaking loose on the local off ramp at double the speed limit (or you are trying to get that extra 5mph out of a certain turn), you should consider a different shock.
You can compare all of this to tire choice. If you are willing to buy Z rated tires with low tread wear ratings (for handling) or drag radials for straight line traction, then you are serious enough with your investment to buy good shocks. My 9sec drag car runs AFCO shocks & my corner burner has KONI's to meet my performance goals.
Also the comment about brakes.... I also ruined multiple sets of 3rd gen rotors & pads on my car. Seemed like every year they were bad (yes I drive my car hard). So I got "Stupid" & put on a set of C4HD front rotors & calipers, along with a set of Hawk pads. 4 years later they are still great, brakes are still over 1/2 thickness & rotors are like new. Not only am I not buying parts every year, I am not working on it....
To each his own.
When you ask for good, Monroe should not be used in the same sentence. You are only fooling yourself.
When you ask for cheap, KONI should not be mentioned, unless you consider lifetime cost as mentioned above. I questioned the high costs myself.
I have numerous performance cars & have used many shocks. For handling, KONI & Bilstein rate at the top. There are more expensive ones out there (custom valved, etc.) as well, but lets concentrate on these. If you run stiff springs, then you need a better shock to control it. You may be able to get by with a KYB in many cases, but there will be some concession to handling. Had both & my daily driver now has KONI shocks on it & the difference was worth it in my opinion. Numerous passengers commented on the improvement as well. Would I do it again? Yes, without hesitation, but I do plan to have this car for many years.
As for Gabriel & Monroe, you get what you pay for. They work OK for a mall cruiser or a regular passenger car, but I was not impressed in the Monroe struts that I put on my wifes car. In 2 years they were worse than the 8yr old struts that they replaced. They were better than the worn out ones (for a little while), but I would never put them on another car that I plan to keep for any length of time... like throwing money (& labor) away. I figured my wife drives cautiously & would never benefit from "performance" parts... except they wore out too soon. I would expect shocks to outlast a set of tires.
As for KYB, they are decent shocks. Do not expect them to last forever, but they are OK for the average performance car. For the price, they work well & most will be happy with them. If you plan to autocross or track the car, these are not the proper choice. I ran KYB's on my Blazer & a few of my other cars. I also do not race these or try to corner as fast as possible, but try to maintain a reasonable monetary investment, but still want decent parts. Many do not drive that agressively, so you may not notice the difference. If you only bought the lowering springs to make the car look good you will be OK. If you are trying to keep the car from breaking loose on the local off ramp at double the speed limit (or you are trying to get that extra 5mph out of a certain turn), you should consider a different shock.
You can compare all of this to tire choice. If you are willing to buy Z rated tires with low tread wear ratings (for handling) or drag radials for straight line traction, then you are serious enough with your investment to buy good shocks. My 9sec drag car runs AFCO shocks & my corner burner has KONI's to meet my performance goals.
Also the comment about brakes.... I also ruined multiple sets of 3rd gen rotors & pads on my car. Seemed like every year they were bad (yes I drive my car hard). So I got "Stupid" & put on a set of C4HD front rotors & calipers, along with a set of Hawk pads. 4 years later they are still great, brakes are still over 1/2 thickness & rotors are like new. Not only am I not buying parts every year, I am not working on it....
To each his own.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Tiffin, OH
Car: '85 Iroc-Z, '03 Z71
Engine: Blown 383, 323 SBC
Transmission: 700r4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: GU6 3.42, G80 3.73
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
What people fail to reailze is "stupid" is in the eye of the beholder... Stupid is the lack of understanding or being able to understand something. This can be due to mental capacity or beng open minded enough to understand someone elses reasoning.
When you ask for good, Monroe should not be used in the same sentence. You are only fooling yourself.
When you ask for cheap, KONI should not be mentioned, unless you consider lifetime cost as mentioned above. I questioned the high costs myself.
I have numerous performance cars & have used many shocks. For handling, KONI & Bilstein rate at the top. There are more expensive ones out there (custom valved, etc.) as well, but lets concentrate on these. If you run stiff springs, then you need a better shock to control it. You may be able to get by with a KYB in many cases, but there will be some concession to handling. Had both & my daily driver now has KONI shocks on it & the difference was worth it in my opinion. Numerous passengers commented on the improvement as well. Would I do it again? Yes, without hesitation, but I do plan to have this car for many years.
As for Gabriel & Monroe, you get what you pay for. They work OK for a mall cruiser or a regular passenger car, but I was not impressed in the Monroe struts that I put on my wifes car. In 2 years they were worse than the 8yr old struts that they replaced. They were better than the worn out ones (for a little while), but I would never put them on another car that I plan to keep for any length of time... like throwing money (& labor) away. I figured my wife drives cautiously & would never benefit from "performance" parts... except they wore out too soon. I would expect shocks to outlast a set of tires.
As for KYB, they are decent shocks. Do not expect them to last forever, but they are OK for the average performance car. For the price, they work well & most will be happy with them. If you plan to autocross or track the car, these are not the proper choice. I ran KYB's on my Blazer & a few of my other cars. I also do not race these or try to corner as fast as possible, but try to maintain a reasonable monetary investment, but still want decent parts. Many do not drive that agressively, so you may not notice the difference. If you only bought the lowering springs to make the car look good you will be OK. If you are trying to keep the car from breaking loose on the local off ramp at double the speed limit (or you are trying to get that extra 5mph out of a certain turn), you should consider a different shock.
You can compare all of this to tire choice. If you are willing to buy Z rated tires with low tread wear ratings (for handling) or drag radials for straight line traction, then you are serious enough with your investment to buy good shocks. My 9sec drag car runs AFCO shocks & my corner burner has KONI's to meet my performance goals.
Also the comment about brakes.... I also ruined multiple sets of 3rd gen rotors & pads on my car. Seemed like every year they were bad (yes I drive my car hard). So I got "Stupid" & put on a set of C4HD front rotors & calipers, along with a set of Hawk pads. 4 years later they are still great, brakes are still over 1/2 thickness & rotors are like new. Not only am I not buying parts every year, I am not working on it....
To each his own.
When you ask for good, Monroe should not be used in the same sentence. You are only fooling yourself.
When you ask for cheap, KONI should not be mentioned, unless you consider lifetime cost as mentioned above. I questioned the high costs myself.
I have numerous performance cars & have used many shocks. For handling, KONI & Bilstein rate at the top. There are more expensive ones out there (custom valved, etc.) as well, but lets concentrate on these. If you run stiff springs, then you need a better shock to control it. You may be able to get by with a KYB in many cases, but there will be some concession to handling. Had both & my daily driver now has KONI shocks on it & the difference was worth it in my opinion. Numerous passengers commented on the improvement as well. Would I do it again? Yes, without hesitation, but I do plan to have this car for many years.
As for Gabriel & Monroe, you get what you pay for. They work OK for a mall cruiser or a regular passenger car, but I was not impressed in the Monroe struts that I put on my wifes car. In 2 years they were worse than the 8yr old struts that they replaced. They were better than the worn out ones (for a little while), but I would never put them on another car that I plan to keep for any length of time... like throwing money (& labor) away. I figured my wife drives cautiously & would never benefit from "performance" parts... except they wore out too soon. I would expect shocks to outlast a set of tires.
As for KYB, they are decent shocks. Do not expect them to last forever, but they are OK for the average performance car. For the price, they work well & most will be happy with them. If you plan to autocross or track the car, these are not the proper choice. I ran KYB's on my Blazer & a few of my other cars. I also do not race these or try to corner as fast as possible, but try to maintain a reasonable monetary investment, but still want decent parts. Many do not drive that agressively, so you may not notice the difference. If you only bought the lowering springs to make the car look good you will be OK. If you are trying to keep the car from breaking loose on the local off ramp at double the speed limit (or you are trying to get that extra 5mph out of a certain turn), you should consider a different shock.
You can compare all of this to tire choice. If you are willing to buy Z rated tires with low tread wear ratings (for handling) or drag radials for straight line traction, then you are serious enough with your investment to buy good shocks. My 9sec drag car runs AFCO shocks & my corner burner has KONI's to meet my performance goals.
Also the comment about brakes.... I also ruined multiple sets of 3rd gen rotors & pads on my car. Seemed like every year they were bad (yes I drive my car hard). So I got "Stupid" & put on a set of C4HD front rotors & calipers, along with a set of Hawk pads. 4 years later they are still great, brakes are still over 1/2 thickness & rotors are like new. Not only am I not buying parts every year, I am not working on it....
To each his own.
And btw GOOOD info if you ask me. I like these in depth explanations and real world driving reviews.
Senior Member

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 588
Likes: 83
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 2012 LS9
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Strange 60 3.54:1
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
Is your primary goal drag racing? This makes a big difference vs. building for handling. Often for weight transfer, a softer shock gives better drag performance on the front & you need enough rear shock control to prevent wheel hop. Adding the rear KONI shocks stopped the wheel hop that I had.
GM 12 bolt... never made one for a 3rd gen. If going with Strange or Moser, you can easily get it with brackets for commonly available 4th gen LT1 style brakes that are very similar to those on later 3rd gens & will work with your e-brake etc.
As for brakes, the fronts are rather small for performance applications. I never recommend running drilled rotors as the will crack between the holes. Slotted do not seem to be a problem, but truely offer little from performance other than looks.
GM 12 bolt... never made one for a 3rd gen. If going with Strange or Moser, you can easily get it with brackets for commonly available 4th gen LT1 style brakes that are very similar to those on later 3rd gens & will work with your e-brake etc.
As for brakes, the fronts are rather small for performance applications. I never recommend running drilled rotors as the will crack between the holes. Slotted do not seem to be a problem, but truely offer little from performance other than looks.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Tiffin, OH
Car: '85 Iroc-Z, '03 Z71
Engine: Blown 383, 323 SBC
Transmission: 700r4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: GU6 3.42, G80 3.73
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
.
Last edited by Sutoto2189; Jul 13, 2010 at 02:58 PM. Reason: double posted
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Tiffin, OH
Car: '85 Iroc-Z, '03 Z71
Engine: Blown 383, 323 SBC
Transmission: 700r4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: GU6 3.42, G80 3.73
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
Is your primary goal drag racing? This makes a big difference vs. building for handling. Often for weight transfer, a softer shock gives better drag performance on the front & you need enough rear shock control to prevent wheel hop. Adding the rear KONI shocks stopped the wheel hop that I had.
GM 12 bolt... never made one for a 3rd gen. If going with Strange or Moser, you can easily get it with brackets for commonly available 4th gen LT1 style brakes that are very similar to those on later 3rd gens & will work with your e-brake etc.
As for brakes, the fronts are rather small for performance applications. I never recommend running drilled rotors as the will crack between the holes. Slotted do not seem to be a problem, but truely offer little from performance other than looks.
GM 12 bolt... never made one for a 3rd gen. If going with Strange or Moser, you can easily get it with brackets for commonly available 4th gen LT1 style brakes that are very similar to those on later 3rd gens & will work with your e-brake etc.
As for brakes, the fronts are rather small for performance applications. I never recommend running drilled rotors as the will crack between the holes. Slotted do not seem to be a problem, but truely offer little from performance other than looks.
.. Nothing like talking smack to them then turning a 15.80 in the quarter at 85 MPH
)). Anyhow, ive got all new aftermarket suspension to help the car aswell. New LCA's, Panhard Bar with on car adjustable ends, adjustable torque arm that bolts to the new tranny crossmember with drive shaft loop, aswell as boxed weld in style subframe connectors. The rearend is out of a truck i think. I picked it up from my local engine shop. It was in his 83 camaro. Hes got a machine that he can scan 3d images and laser engrave into something, so the rearend is setup to factory specs as far as bracket locations and the torque arm bolts up thru the housing as it did on the 9 and 10 bolts. I wouldnt trust my engine to any other shop within 100 miles, i kid you not. He has been doing this for 30+ years. Everybody in town goes to him, he rebuilds everything from 1900 Model T Ford motors to 16 cylinder diesel pulling tractor motors. He knows his stuff.... So as far as brakes go. I know where i can pick up a set of LT1 brakes from a wrecked z28. I assume all i would need to grab is the booster, master cyl, calipers, and the mounts that hold the calipers? Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,499
Likes: 31
From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
The money I dropped on my Koni yellows was well worth it. The Koni's are right up there with my T56 for my favorite mod of all the things I've done to the car, and that includes a 350 swap.
Ive got cut super stiff IROC springs on the car, and the car rides very firm, but it's only tolerable because I've got struts that can handle it.
I built my car to handle, and it's amazingly fun to throw around the twisties - that was just my goal with the car. If you want to build a drag car then I definitely dont see the need to spend $500 on struts in the front, as far as rear shocks go I have no idea - I didnt build a drag car so I didnt do the research there, but Konis are $200 a pair for the rear last I checked, not quite so bad as the front.
Ive got cut super stiff IROC springs on the car, and the car rides very firm, but it's only tolerable because I've got struts that can handle it.
I built my car to handle, and it's amazingly fun to throw around the twisties - that was just my goal with the car. If you want to build a drag car then I definitely dont see the need to spend $500 on struts in the front, as far as rear shocks go I have no idea - I didnt build a drag car so I didnt do the research there, but Konis are $200 a pair for the rear last I checked, not quite so bad as the front.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 568
Likes: 1
From: Leander,TX
Car: 84 Z28 / 88 Trans Am / 87 base
Engine: L69 H.O. / 468 BBC / 2.8 v6
Transmission: 89 700R4 / TH375B / 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 open / 3.23 posi / 3.42 open
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
I did the bilstiens on the 84 and lost time on the strip, when I switched to the konis my time improved over the stockers and gave a great ride for cruising. I feel that konis are a good all around shock/ strut.
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
What about the best combination for a V6 RS for my daughter? I may keep this car for three or so. This car will obviously not see the track and will not be carving corners. This will be a home to school to the mall to friends homes and that will be about it. The road to our house out in the middle of nowhere is a pretty rough paved road so that may help.
Thanks, and sorry for hi-jacking the thread.
Thanks, and sorry for hi-jacking the thread.
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 463
Likes: 0
From: Houston Area
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 355, 6.0 (LQ4) soon
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Borg Warner 2.77 for now
Re: Best/Prefered Shocks and Struts
Tokico makes a very good product, I'd put them up there with Koni and Bilstein. You can't go wrong with anything that offers a Lifetime Warranty and all 3 of these brands offer it (there may be more that I'm not aware of). If you shop around you can get 2 shocks and 2 struts from thier HP line for around $250.
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