I have just replaced every thing execpt the steel lines and the proportioning valuve. Once I apply them they almost feel as though they have air in them ( which they do not!!!!) They also pull to the right which I am assuming can be fixed with a new proportioning valuve. Help me out here!!!

 

It sounds like you have an air pocket that is stuck on one side. the valve only controlls front to back.

 

i've got the saaaame problem buddy. I had the brakes bled and still the same stuff. Imma try new braided brake lines. Late.

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85 2.8L Sport Coupe 5-speed.
Mods: Hpertech chip and powerstat, MSD 6A-L, Crane fireball coil, Dynomax hi-flow cat and catback system with a dynomax magnum race bullet muffler on the i-pipe, K&N filterchargers, Eibach and Tokiko springs/shocks setup, Global west sub frames, Suspension techniqs front and rear sway bars, and good ole 88 IROC wheels with Kumo Ecstas on em!
"I'm out to seek those pesky VTEC boys!" (don't get me wrong, I'm asian myself! hehe)

Wins: 2000 V6 Accord, 69 302 Mustang, 2000 Auto VR6 Jetta, 89 Toyota MR2, 90 Civic Si, 76 350 Camaro.

 

Actually, the proportioning valve in our cars is both the proportioning (controls front to back balance) and the front metering (controls left to right balance) valve. Make sure you bleed the master cylinder correctly and thoroughly. Try bleeding the proportioning valve. Bleed the rears again and again and again and again ... Front rubber hoses can also cause a pull if one hose is 'giving' more than the other. They're not very expensive if you haven't already replaced them. Good Luck!!

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R.C. Righter
86 Trans Am

 

how do u bleed those induvidual units? i thought when you bleed the brakes, u bleed the lines and everyting included on the lines? let me know! thanks!

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85 2.8L Sport Coupe 5-speed.
Mods: Hpertech chip and powerstat, MSD 6A-L, Crane fireball coil, Dynomax hi-flow cat and catback system with a dynomax magnum race bullet muffler on the i-pipe, K&N filterchargers, Eibach and Tokiko springs/shocks setup, Global west sub frames, Suspension techniqs front and rear sway bars, and good ole 88 IROC wheels with Kumo Ecstas on em!
"I'm out to seek those pesky VTEC boys!" (don't get me wrong, I'm asian myself! hehe)

Wins: 2000 V6 Accord, 69 302 Mustang, 2000 Auto VR6 Jetta, 89 Toyota MR2, 90 Civic Si, 76 350 Camaro.

 

I had and have got back the same problem. The first time round it was a dodgy, collapsed front rubber hose -obviously it'll be the one on the opposite side to the direction the car is pulling.

Don't follow my example though, replace both of them. I'm thinking of getting new rotors as well as my brakes are so underpowered -also thinking about new high-powered pads -I doubt it'll make much difference to me though -I wish I knew how to resolve the sponginess... once and for all!

 

How hard is it to replace the flex parts of the brake lines? you gotta reload the system when you change them right? and is it worth it to get the steel braided lines or just new stock rubber ones would be fine? thanks!

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85 2.8L Sport Coupe 5-speed.
Mods: Hpertech chip and powerstat, MSD 6A-L, Crane fireball coil, Dynomax hi-flow cat and catback system with a dynomax magnum race bullet muffler on the i-pipe, K&N filterchargers, Eibach and Tokiko springs/shocks setup, Global west sub frames, Suspension techniqs front and rear sway bars, and good ole 88 IROC wheels with Kumo Ecstas on em!
"I'm out to seek those pesky VTEC boys!" (don't get me wrong, I'm asian myself! hehe)

Wins: 2000 V6 Accord, 69 302 Mustang, 2000 Auto VR6 Jetta, 89 Toyota MR2, 90 Civic Si, 76 350 Camaro.

 

Thanks for the help. I have replaced both rubber hoses upfront and i have bleed the **** out of the whole entire system, front and rear. The only thing that I can think of is replacing the proportioning valve. When I replaced everything I put a brand new fluid holder just incase there was a bunch of crap in it. (Which there was)