Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

Replacing whole suspension.

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Old 05-16-2001, 04:33 PM
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Replacing whole suspension.

OK guys. I want to do this right. I have a rare camaro and it's a keeper. 90 IROC-Z convertable, blue, 5 speed. I've already dropped the LT1 in it and soon she'll get the T56. I want the car to run ahead of the C4's and stomp the new mustang GT's. What do you recommend for a COMPLETELY NEW SUSPENSION... control arms... springs.... everything....

thanks......
Old 05-17-2001, 11:45 AM
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Good Q. I will also be rebuilding my entire suspension front to rear, and here's what I know. PST offers a complete front end rebuild kit for $159 which includes poly bushings, tie rod ends, and more. Energy Suspension carries some of the best quality bushings out there but they are a little more expensive. I guess it all comes down to what you want to spend on it. Some guys like the PST stuff, some don't. (PST uses foreign parts, E.S. is US made) Here's what I plan on doing. Summit just started carrying Moog chassis parts (ball joints, end and center links, etc). I will be buying Energy suspension bushings and then finish it all out with Moog parts from Summit. It shouldn't cost that much more and I will know I have quality MADE IN THE USA parts. I don't plan on selling mine either, so I want the best.

------------------
Ed Miller
Charlotte, NC
1991 RS, 305 TBI,
bone stock driver;
1988 IROC L98
TPIS Fast Pack, modified MAF, MSD 6A, Dynomax cat-back so far.

"Do you want to race or don't ya? I want to race." Dale Earnhardt
Old 05-17-2001, 12:58 PM
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What about springs, and shocks. Should I lower it an inch, half an inch, or not at all. What is everyone take on this. She's got 17" IROC rims.

Thanks......
Old 05-17-2001, 03:05 PM
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
17" Factory IROC rims??? I don't think they made those. As for springs, that's up to you. You'll get a harsher ride if you swap them for lowering springs. Ride height is your call. I'm not gonna lower mine or switch springs unless I am unhappy with it after my rebuild. I scrape enough as it is. I would consider a half inch drop, but most springs drop a minimum of 1-1 1/2 inches, too low for me. Eibach's Pro kit springs go for about $230 with that drop. As for shocks, again it's what you want to spend. Check out www.shox.com for a good price range on sorings and struts/shocks. That ought to help you make your decision.
Old 05-17-2001, 11:17 PM
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 350
Transmission: New 700r4 Done by 11/14/07!
I'll tell you what I've got in my '84 Trans Am, and I can't tell you how happy I am with her handling now. There's almost ZERO body roll, and I worry more about my tires letting go instead of my suspension not being able to handle the G forces.

PST front end polygraphite rebuild kit
PST front sway bar 1 1/4" w/polygraphite bushings
PST centerlink
PST inner tie rod ends
PST idler arm
PST rear sway bar 1" w/polygraphite bushings
KYB GR-2 struts
KYB Gas-a-Just shocks
Eibach ProKit springs (about 1"-1.5" drop)
Spohn subframe connectors
Spohn adjustable torque arm (polyurethane)
Spohn lower control arms (poly/spherical)
Spohn adjustable panhard rod (poly/spherical)

The only thing that's not aftermarket are the front lower control arms. I just cleaned them off and powdercoated them with black.

As for your question about the springs, I'd recommend the Eibach ProKit to anyone. It only drops the car about an inch and a half at the most, and makes the car look even better. The ride is more firm, but due to the progressive rate nature of the springs is not as harsh as some would make it out to be. I was apprehensive before I installed them, but was really pleased with the end result.


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