Is there a way to remove the factory lock lug nuts if you don't have the factory key socket? Or am I severely screwed?

 

I don't know if you're the original owner or not, I'm assuming you're not, but unless someone did you a favor by placing the serial number to your lugs key in the handbook or somewhere, you're pretty much screwed. However you get them off will probably destroy the pattern but if it were me, I'd get them off now and replace them, rather than getting stranded somewhere...

KAM

 

A shop should be able to remove them for you without damaging your locks. They should have a set of lock picks for wheel locks.

 

As the post above advised, you shouldn't have too much of a problem if you take it to a well equipted shop that would have the tool needed to get the lock nut off.

I know on some rims they can be removed with an air chisel if they're not too recessed. And I've also heard of a special tool, a socket that I think is tapered with grooves or ribs or something inside to grab the nut when pounded on. It's probably cheaper to have it done by a shop (specializing in tires???) though.

[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited June 15, 2001).]

 

as you were told most tire shops or dealer ship will have the right tools to do it. i bought a universal fit socket to remove locking lugs, but it screws them up after you hammer it on the lug.

------------------
ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

Thanks to all for your responses. I will check on the shops this week to see if they have the right tools, etc. Also I don't care if the locking nut is destroyed or not since they will not be reused, just as long as they don't wreck my wheels or the studs. Thanks.

 

If the locks are too tight, those 'tools' won't work. But if you don't want to save the locking nuts, have a shop just weld a nut to the lug and then unscrew--that always works.

------------------
350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkim bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

Instead of paying a shop, you could probably do them yourself. First spray a little WD40 on the threads of the lock(the closest you can get to them) and let it penetrate for a while. Be careful not to get it on your brake rotors or pads. Then tighten all of the other lug nuts extra tight (probably somewhere around 150 ft/lb). Then if your lucky the extra tightening of the other lug nuts will relieve some of the pressure from the locking lug. You will probably have to use some pliars or vise-grips, but you should be able to work the lock loose.

[This message has been edited by bigvic (edited June 16, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by bigvic (edited June 16, 2001).]

 

Just pound a socket on it thats a little smaller. It will work if you do it right.

The vise grip idea works if you have room. Use a pipe on the end of it for leverage.

Good luck.



------------------
Mike L.

"If it feels good - stay in it "

1987 IROC Z TPI 350 A4 3.27 Borg-Warner.

Mods: 2300-2500 Stall Converter, Shift Kit(GM parts), TPI Specialties Stage 3 PROM, Modified Airbox w/ K&N's, homemade cold air, Relocated MAT sensor, Gutted MAF, 160* thermostat, Accel 8mm Wires, bypassed TB coolant, Flowmaster 3 chamber single 3" in/out muffler, 3" MAC mandrel intermediate, custom dual !cat Y-pipe. airfoil, ported plenum. !smog

http://www.MichaelLasiuta.home.att.net

**BOYCOTT LAPEER DRAGWAY**

 

------------------
Red 1991 Z/28 350TPI
minor mods:MAC exhaust,headers,,K&N filters and others possibly(bought used).
John Soule' member of the GULFSOUTH FIREBIRD/CAMARO CLUB (NEW ORLEANS) and WORLDWIDE CAMARO ASSOCIATION
Meguiar's wax!

 

I was going to say the same thing, BigVic. When you overtighten the wheel nuts, you yank all the stress off the locking one, and with some luck, a big pair of channel-lock pliers should work.

I did that on the side of the road... got a flat, and I went after the locking nut first. Well, the damned cheap "Rally" key stripped out the lugnut! The key was fine, but the lugnut was destroyed. After waiting for AAA for an hour or so, I just overtightened the other 4, and used channel-locks on the locking nut- it came right off.

I hope it didn't hit any squirrels as it flew through the forest...


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!