I am taking next week off, so that means it's time to mod the car!

I want to lower the front of my car about 1". Since I all ready have new 700lb/in springs up front (which are too high for my liking) I plan to cut a 1/2 to 1 full coil off. How much coil would equal about one inch? I'm thinking 1/2 a coil... Also, what type of saw and blade and/or technique works best?

Next question relates to the Edelborck STB I bought. Let me start off by saying don't waste your time on hold via their 1 phone line, and it takes them a lot longer then 48hrs to reply via e-mail... and when they do, they are no help AT ALL! Oh, and their directions suck too, but I like the quality of the parts...

Anyways, the thing doesn't line up the way they say. I have to move it over slightly so it doesn't hit the master cylinder(the bowl where you fill up the brake fluid). The most concerning thing is that the strut tower adjustment brackets are in the way (more so on the driver's side) and I feel I'll need to move them over to be able to bolt the STB bracket onto the strut tower. Has anyone ever had to do this?

This car has never been in an accident either. It also has no AC in the way.

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

[This message has been edited by Biochem (edited June 29, 2001).]

 

I had no problems with my STB. If you move the strut mounting plate, you will mess with you alignment.

 

I know... But I figure if I remove and cut a coil off my springs... I'll have to get it re-aligned anyways. Besides, I'd much rather have this $130 piece of metal sitting under my hood instead of in my garage!

 

Anyone got some tips for cutting springs?

 

If you remove any coils from your 700# springs, they are going to be even stiffer and will give you a harsher ride. I suggest reading the "Camaro Performance Handbook" by David Shelby. In it there is a how-to article by suspension expert Herb Adams on the best way to lower your car, have top-notch handling, and a comfortable ride (have your cake and eat it too!). Aquire the "soft" springs from a base camaro, which are 365 lbs/in. (stock Z28 springs are 548#) and trim 1/2 coil from the top. Mark the spring directly across from the original end and cut with an acetylene torch, this will increase the stiffness approximately 10%. Heat the coil directly across from the new cut, quickly turn upside down and bend the top of the coil by pushing down on the spring on a hard floor (try to match the original shape), allow to air cool-DO NOT quench in water! Paint black and install into car, go for alignment.

Good luck and enjoy!

 

I never had any problems with my 3-point Edelbrock STB for the carb engine. The only thing I had to do was get the alignment at max. caster (strut mounts all the way back) to have enough room for the brackets. I centered it so it would clear the passenger side snorkle on the air cleaner and it does look like it would touch the brake fluid reservoir if it were centered exactly in the engine bay, but I never really noticed until now.

As for support from Edelbrock, I emailed them for a new decal because they had put it on the bottom side of the brace and they sent me enough different size ones to make a Honda Civic go 500 mph!

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1985 Yellow IROC-Z 5.0 HO, T-5 3.73 Torsen, 4 wheel disks
PFCM pads, GTA wheels, Koni yellows, B&M Ripper, Dynomax

 

Thank you! I am convinced that I will have to move those brackets back a little to get it on... glad Edelbrock was egar to acknowledge this too (not).


Also, I was always told never to hit a spring with a torch. Heat lowers the srping rate or something.

 

To cut them get one of the little cutoff wheels from your local auto store. You can use it in your drill if you dont have an air compressor. Didnt take me long to cut my rear springs with it.

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Black 90 IROC, L98, A4, 323 gear. SuperRamed 406 in the works!