I just finsihed putting in lowering springs into my TA. Everything is reassembled correctly but when I look at the car from the back the PS is a little higher. What could casue this, did I ahve to change some other part int he suspension to compensate for lowering.

BTW The shocks and springs are new so its not 1 spring sagging more then the other.

-Max

 

hey, i just put some lowering springs on the rear passenger of my 84 camaro and it only dropped 1/4 of an inch on that side. i dont know if i need to put the other spings in, but i am very dissappointed so far. or is it i am doing something wrong also.

 

A lot of lowering springs incorporate a higher spring rate in the right hand side of the car for better traction and handling. A stiffer right spring puts more traction force on the right side to make up for engine torque applying more force to the left side. That's why a posi rearend likes to step out to the left, and why the right tire always spins on an open. The same thing applies for cornering under power. After your springs settle you won't be able to notice it as much. The springs will settle, because as the springs compress and rebound they build heat which relieves stresses in the spring. It will settle quickly at first and then slow down a lot, because of the progressive spring rate.

 

Thanks for clearing that up ATO, I was getting worried I did somehting wrong.

BTW Yeul, after you put the second spring in the car will drop down as advertised, same thing happened to me when I had just 1 spring in.

 

News to me. If that were the case, the mfg would have identified which were the right or left spring. Not so with my Eibach Pro-Kit springs. How much different are the measurements? Mine are within 1/8" side to side. You may have instaleld one side wrong. Possible causes; installed one upside down, instalelld one with the tang or tail of the spring oriented differently or it is binding at the top and not seating all the way up against the spring rubber. Also you could have installed the spring rubber in a new spot relative to the spring. If you reused the old ones they would have a set or indentation from the end of the spring. You should have matched it to the new spring then taped it on with electrical tape when installing it. It took me 3 tries to get my front springs to seat properly. They kept binding at the top. Good luck.

 

Another thing is that when you lower our cars, you are relocating the lateral position of the rear axle. This is due to the panhard rod setup. This slight off-center spot will cause a slight height difference in the sides of the car.

An adjustable panhard rod is recommended when ever you lower a 3rd gen f-body, as well as other things such as the torque arm & LCAs. There are a few things on the front that need updating also. I can't remember all of them, but Spohn should be able to tell you.

 

WHOA! Hold the horses….

First, spring rates are equal side to side unless you order a CUSTOM set of springs. This would be done only for circle track cars the turn one direction and only one direction. If the spring rates were not the same side to side you would have one very poor handling car from resulting weight transition and unbalanced spring/shock combos. No exotic solutions here. It’s a street car with a street suspension.

Secondly, the spring should be stress relieved from the factory. Stress relieving takes place at a very high temperature in a controlled atmosphere. Then the metal is then cooled at a controlled rate in order to ensure it returns to a specific geometric phase. If not, the spring would be brittle and break.

Thirdly, I’m can’t even figure out how progressive rate springs play a role in all this.

All I would do is check that the isolator springs are installed properly and wait a few weeks for the suspension to settle. Components are in bind and need to come to equilibrium.