Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

help on strut replacement

Old Aug 26, 2001 | 04:11 PM
  #1  
yuel's Avatar
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From: Virginia Beach
Car: 91 z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 4l60
Axle/Gears: 3.42
help on strut replacement

how do i remove the top strut bolt? does it require the use of a air tools? i tried everything except air tools which i dont have. any suggestions? thanks
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Old Aug 26, 2001 | 07:25 PM
  #2  
Blue92's Avatar
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Man, I changed mine about a year ago, but I think I remember how I did it. If you are going to throw the strut away then it won't hurt it.
Get some vise grips on the strut rod underneath the strut mount in the wheel well. Hold on to the vise grips as you loosen the nut on top. Ithink this is how I did it. Hope this helps.
Ned

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Pics of my Car
http://photos.lycos.com/PhotoCShare/PhotoAlbum.asp?CG=otteftncpeg4ddkiansjgvi7gc&AI D=247820

305TBI, EDL strut tower brace w/spohn SFC's on the way and wonderbar, ASCD big block hood,
Eibach Sportline Springs,
Koni Struts and Shocks,
SSPE lower control arms and Panhard bar,
Hellwig Rear Swaybar and Energy Suspension bushings.Aluminum Driveshaft. Posi-rear

[This message has been edited by Blue92 (edited August 26, 2001).]
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Old Aug 26, 2001 | 07:53 PM
  #3  
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When i replaced the front struts on my 82-z i beleive that the top bolt on the original had a place on the end of the bolt where a small wrench would fit I used a box wrench for the nut, and a small wrench (forgotten the sizes )on the end of the bolt using the small wrench is used to hold the strut rod in place while the box is to losten the nut.
Hope this helps~
SilkWorm~
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Old Aug 26, 2001 | 09:01 PM
  #4  
Mo's Avatar
Mo
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From: bay area, CA
I did it like silkworm, major pain though, that $h1t is on there good.

[This message has been edited by Mo (edited August 26, 2001).]
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Old Aug 26, 2001 | 10:29 PM
  #5  
82camaro's Avatar
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From: NE
Car: 82 camaro SC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
I had one(not my car) that was so tight the vise-grip method wouldn't work without help. I ended up grinding flat spots on the strut rod to get the vise grips to hold.


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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, currant red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro
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Old Aug 27, 2001 | 04:07 AM
  #6  
yuel's Avatar
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From: Virginia Beach
Car: 91 z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 4l60
Axle/Gears: 3.42
thanks for your input and i will try suggestions. i am trying to get my old springs out and i figure the only way is to loosen the top strut bolt. thanks again.

------------------
84 z28 HO
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Old Aug 27, 2001 | 07:06 AM
  #7  
Blue92's Avatar
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If you are only trying to get the springs out, just take out the bottom bolts. That will lower the control arm, making spring removal easy.
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Old Sep 14, 2001 | 01:22 PM
  #8  
wm_sorg's Avatar
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From: Annandale, VA
Car: 1991 Formula Firebird
Engine: 2001 LS1 Modded
Transmission: 2001 4L60E Yank SS3600 TC
Does anyone recall the size of the bolts? I need to go to sears and purchase sockets for the job.

Thanks,
William
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Old Sep 14, 2001 | 10:16 PM
  #9  
Belker's Avatar
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On my car I think I used a 15/16" deep well for the bottom.
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Old Sep 15, 2001 | 11:10 PM
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I ROCK's Avatar
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From: Chicago, IL
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700-R4
I just took off the two giant bolts that hold the strut to the spindle, then unbolted the upper mounts and took both old shocks and both new ones to a gas service station and gave them a few bucks to switch them over. Took like 2 seconds. I for one tried everything to get that damn nut off, but you don't want to mar the rod of the new strut when you put it back on anyway, so why not use an impact.
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Old Sep 16, 2001 | 10:43 AM
  #11  
Keith5's Avatar
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From: Wilmington NC
Car: C1500
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
As I recall on mine the top bolt was the easiest thing of the whole job.

------------------
1989 Pontiac Firebird Formula LO3/700R4
-180 degree stat, Hooker Cat-Back, Wonder Bar

http://www.geocities.com/krt80/
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Old Sep 16, 2001 | 12:47 PM
  #12  
Earl 87gta's Avatar
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From: East Tn
Its easy to remove the struts the top bolt use a 15/16 box end wrench for the big nut then use a 10mm on a 3/4 braker bar on the stud that is why its shaped like the head of a bolt and it will break loose no problem.
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Old Sep 21, 2001 | 01:54 PM
  #13  
wm_sorg's Avatar
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From: Annandale, VA
Car: 1991 Formula Firebird
Engine: 2001 LS1 Modded
Transmission: 2001 4L60E Yank SS3600 TC
I thought those bolts were metric?

W
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Old Sep 23, 2001 | 04:56 AM
  #14  
yuel's Avatar
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From: Virginia Beach
Car: 91 z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 4l60
Axle/Gears: 3.42
After all this time i still cannont get that top bolt of the top. I have tried everything from impact wrench to old fashion mucsles. The top of the strut is starting to become round instead of two flat surfaces. Looks like i will have to take to the shop.

------------------
84 z28
http://www.geocities.com/yuelb/Car.jpg
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