In the RS.

Brake pedal requires lots of force to stop the car. When driving in traffic, braking ability deteriorates to scary levels.

What is the cause?

The pedal doesn't travel to the floor, but does require a good deal of movement. The pedal is not spongy, no pulsation.

The rear brakes are very grabby, easy to lock em up.

Front pads are a year old, and presumably in great shape, rotors are old.

Rear shoes are 3 years old.

My headers sit about 1/8" from the brake lines, I have a suspicion this is the cause of part of my problem. However the people I have asked, have said the heat shouldn't affect the fluid.

 

Have you checked the fluid level in the master cylinder, and/or bled the brakes? Its also possible the m/c is about to die.


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1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
317 RWHP, 418 RWTQ
13.23 @ 107.62 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Member: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

The fluid level is fine, that's the first thing I checked.

The brakes haven't been bled since I changed calipers a few years ago.

 

Mac,

Chasing the same problem in my car. I have 1LE front brakes and 97 T/A rear brakes though... Oddly enough, taking out the check valve on my brake booster and blowing into it from both ends seemed to make it "pop", then the pedal is much softer and easy to lock them up. I'm chalking this up to a bad booster or check valve, but both are only 6 months old bought new from GM. When you find out make sure you let everyone know!

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-Jason M. 1991 Camaro Z28

 

It sounds like your master cylinder is on its way out to me. Does the brake pedal gradually "bleed down" when you sit and hold it for awhile at a red light?

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1990 IROC 350
Mods: Too busy trying to make it run right to mod it.
Airfoil, Dynomax cat-back, MSD coil, 180 t-stat, Bald Eagle tires,
Hypertech fan switch, Accel 23# injectors, Holley module, ported plenum,
Ported Daytona Yellow stock base, Moroso valve covers, other stuff,
Streetdampr, Ruger P95DC, hot wife, new oil filter, !cats, !TBC, !AIR.
18.0 @ 85MPH since I'm one big-a$$ MF
"It's better to have and not need than to need and not have."

 

I need to check the bleed down thing, that's a good tip BTW, never thought of that.. If I remember correctly, it is kinda bleeding down.

I have an extra master at my house, so I think when I get the chance, I'll swap em out..

 

If it's bleeding down at a stop you either have a fluid leak, the pistons/wheel cylinders are gone, or the MC is shot. If there are no leaks, I'd suspect the MC first and replace it since a reman. unit is usually only $20-30 and it sucks when it gets to the point where you have to throw it in park or use the e-brake to stop the car (been there, done that). Hope this helps.

 

I have a used Master and booster from an 89 TA sitting in my garage, I'll swap em out and see what happens.