I am planning my suspension and everything for the new engine I will be putting in (383...expecting high to mid 11s, plus a 75-150 shot of NOS). This will be my daily driver...and I will want to keep everything in my interior including rear seats. I read a few places that if you run below 12...you need a roll cage. It seems like they would need me to take my rear seats out....I will no longer beable to use my cargo cover...and where will i put my t-tops? The only one ive seen that MAY be ok is the Jegster 4 point cage. Of course I do like the benefits such as safety and looking cool. So do I need it...and if i do...are there any that will let me keep my rear seats and atleast keep the spot where I hold my t-tops clear?

Oh and I want to add that I will be taking it to the track...but only a few times a year.

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1992 Teal Camaro RS
T-Tops
305 TBI V8
Open air element
3" Flowmaster Exhaust System w/Quad Tips
Aiwa CD/Mp3 player
10 Disc CD Changer
Rockford Fosgate Speakers
SLP Headers Coming
Dynomax High Flow Cats Coming
More to come.


[This message has been edited by mult68 (edited October 15, 2001).]

 

"Lisa's bad dancing makes my feet sad"
-Ralph

 

you need a roll cage to be legal if you run under 11.99 i ithnk, my rule book is in the garage. best to send NHRA 12 dollars and get a rule book

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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

 

I answered in the racing forum

 

i have an 8 point bar in my car and can still access the back seats and my t-top bag its tight but it can be done the back seat is a little hard to get into with the seat bar but i dont ride back there so who cares

 

Happen to have any pics bottlefed?

 

no not at the moment, but i should in a week or so

 

Hey bottlefed...was wondering if there were any modifications you had to do to the interior to make it fit. Particalarly the rear passenger arm rests (the plastic panels below the rear speakers). And im guessing you cut the back carpet to let the tubes through...but did you cut it before you welded them in...then slide the tubes in and weld with the carpet pulled up...or did you take the carpet out, weld them, then somehow put the carpet back in?

 

the roll bar dont affect the arm rests at all and as for the carpet i took it all out and welded everything up i didnt put it back in yet because the bars are still in primer and after its painted i ll just start in the center and work my way to the outside then make a slit in the carpet and sow a bead around the edges to stop the carpet from fraying

 

Our 10 point installed:

http://www.spohn.net/oldsite/z28.htm

8 point would not have the halo, pillar bars, and dash bar.

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Spohn Performance: F-Body Chassis/Suspension Specialists

[This message has been edited by SteveSpohn (edited November 01, 2001).]

 

I have a 4 point autopower bolt in bar. It was really easy to put in and fills the contours of the car very well. I say run the times and get booted off the track, then put in the bar. I just put mine in in case I break an axel.

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1991 Firebird
350 L98 (was a 305 TBI),T-5,Edelbrock TES and cat back,Accel manifold
NOS,subframes,jegster torque arm,MSD Digital 6
AFPR,Lakewood lcas
Hurst linelock,SLP cam (206 212 .480 .486),relocated battery,cold air,Hypertech chip,centerforce df,clutch
poly bushings and mounts
AFR 190s
Harland sharp 1.5 rockers
autopower rollbar

12.33 @ 114.83 juiced uncorrected

13.510 @ 102 non juiced uncorrected