Okay guys, here's one for ya! I did a lube job Saturday, using my usual Vavoline synthetic grease. After driving around for a while, I went to McDonald's. While in their drive-thru "tunnel", I heard my steering creaking badly! The noise was from the passenger side. It was the kind of noise you hear if you need to lube your door hinges- but three times as loud.

When I was doing the lube job, I had a fitting or two that "locked" my grease gun onto it. I had to wobble the grease gun end quite a bit to get it to pop off the fitting. One fitting was on the outer tire rod end, passenger side. I didn't see any grease "escape" the back of the fitting, either, which I thought was odd. You know how you can spin a tie rod end a bit? Well, I reached up to spin it, and it was locked solid. I had to give it one hell of a twist to get it to swivel, and when I broke it free, the grease I injected finally oozed out the back.

I also had one of these "locked the grease gun onto it" fittings on the idler arm. I also noticed that, above the idler arm, my homemade cold-air-intake tube fell down. It rested on a hose for my remote trans filter, and loosened the clamp. The result: Trans fluid dripping down the idler arm.

Now, if this was a balljoint, I'd hear this creaking noise over bumps, right? I didn't; it was only on turns. Plus, don't balljoints "pop" instead of creak?

When I got home (after stopping frequently to see if I could hear the noise, checking for a balljoint), I crawled under the car. I twisted that passenger side tie-rod- no noise.

Now the noise is gone! What the hell could've caused it? I was planning to rebuild the front suspension next spring; I really don't want to replace a part now. Should I just assume that the grease I shot in had to work it's way around the joints, and now that it's worked in, it's fine?

And is this -not- a balljoint? I'd rather not lose a wheel on the highway

Thanks!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

Well, the strange noise is back... it came back after I was driving for 15 minutes or so. I guess something's gotta heat up first, eh?


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

This must be a universal F-Bod problem. Mine does it, every other one I have driven did it ( most MUCH worse than mine ), don't have a clue what causes it, but my wheels haven't fallen off or anything. By the way, do your front wheels rub the frame/sway bar? My car has original 16x8's and stock size tires, they rub like crazy in sharp turns.

 

Actually, my original 215/65r15 tires on 15x7 rims were rubbing the front inner fender/frame! I'm not sure if the current 225/60r15 (on same size rims) are, since the rub marks are still there from the first tires.

The noise keeps coming & going... it seems to come after a while of driving, but then it disappears again... I get so many looks now in parking lots- and for all the wrong reasons!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

I know what you mean. Girls don't think my 'vert is so cool after it creaks and pops rolling into their driveway . I might feel better if I at least knew what made the noise, I also noticed that my steering wheel rocks side to side a little when turning hard.

 

Rubbing like crazy huh? Which steering box do you have? Well, even when I had the stock 17:1 ratio box, I never rubbed, and the car is dropped with 16x8's. But I have 225/50/16's in front instead. Maybe thats why I dont rub.

I know how yall feel about the squeeks and rattles and stuff. You gotta remember how old our cars are and heavy they are too! If you compare to other cars of the same age, you'll find that were not alone. I ride in my homies 76 280z (ok, its 9 years older than mine) and boy its got enough squeeks and rattles to drive infants crazy. My other friends: 89 Civic Si=noisy, 91 integra=noisy, 96 civic lx=hella squeeky, 68 carmen ghia=unbearable.

Unfortunatly, I cant list my other buddies cars cuz they're all bran new. hehe, payce out fellas.



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85 2.8L Sport Coupe 5-speed.
Mods: Hpertech chip and powerstat, MSD 6A-L, Crane fireball coil, Accel Cap and Rotor, Dynomax hi-flow cat and catback system with a dynomax magnum race bullet muffler on the i-pipe, K&N filterchargers, Gutted Air Boxes, 8mm Wires, Eibach Sportlines and Tokiko springs/shocks setup, Global west sub frames, Suspension techniqs front and rear sway bars, and good ole 88 IROC wheels with Kumo Ecstas on em!
"It's not the ricers, it's those damn V8's!"

Wins: 2000 V6 Accord, 69 302 Mustang, 2000 Auto VR6 Jetta, 89 Toyota MR2, 90 Civic Si, 76 350 Camaro, 2000 3.8 5-speed Camaro, ~68 Chevelle 350, 92 CRX Si, 94 MR2 non-turbo.

My Car

 

This is while turning, though, and comes from the passenger side. It never made such a noise 'till that lube job. The noise is still coming & going; I guess I'll "let it ride" until next spring, then rebuild the whole front suspension at one shot.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

My car did the exact same thing but I hadn't done anything to my car, no lub job. it started on the way to work yesterday, this morning no sound, this afternoon on the way home from work, back again. Replaced an old strut (the sound is kind of like a bad strut over bumps, but this sound is only when I turn). The strut was shot, but when he took it out, it offered NO resistance instead of too much resistance - which I thought was what made the noise. So I drove away and the sound was right back, maybe a little more consistent than before. I took it back and I spun the wheel while he looked at it, and he told me right there that it was a front control arm bushing. Have you guys ever heard of it being the control arm bushing? He says that the bushings are extremely difficult to remove, and that control arm is like $400!! I really don't have $800 right now, is there another fix?

 

Man, you brought this back from the dead. I'd never return to the shop again. Even if it were the bushing (which it's not), there's no need to replace the a-arms. Remove the a-arm and replace the bushings--that simple. If you were turning the wheel when the noise occurred, you might consider a wheel bearing or perhaps even a brake pad.

JamesC

 

 

If your control bushings were trash your would have such a problem when braking the noise would be the least of your concern. I think your tech is blowing smoke.Mine does it too, once in a blue moon. I would call it more of a creaking noise A BIG ONE! B-bodies are really bad for this too. It has gotten worse after wonder bar and SFC. I really think its in the lower control arms (most likely lower control arm bolts) they dont have to move much to make on heck of a noise. Here's what I plan to do with mine when I get the time. #1 !!! Find a drive over sidewalk or something where I can make the noise every time. #2 lube lower control are bushings with graphite lube #3 tighten lower control arm bolts #4 go back to test spot. I'll let you know.

 

The bolts are probably seized to the metal sleeve that runs through the bushing.

JamesC

 

Most 3rd gens have that problem, is it when the steering is at full lock? Check your idler arm, it is bolted to your pass side frame rail. Theres an acess hole behind the splash skirt, in back of the pass tire.Might wanna upgrade your wonder bar & get a strut brace.

 

Well, I replaced the idler arm last summer myself, so I don't think that is the problem. And when he lubed up the bushings - bam. No sound. It has completely disappeared. So I don't know. The mechanic also said he could do it, but you have to take the springs out to even get to the control arm right? So if it comes back, I'll just go ask him what he used and keep spraying it until I have some real time and real money. I have a mechanic back home that I go to every time - he lets me help. As long as I can wait until I get down there I'll be straight. But yea, the lubrication did the trick. And I hadn't noticed until I got the strut replaced how sloppy my steering had become. Next time I'll do it myself though, it's easier than ball joints.

 

Will I would buy a part a paycheck until I have them all & change all at once. If I was you i would change the centerlink, tie rods, idler arm. Purchase a aftermarket wonderbar & 3pt. strut brace.

 

My car does the same thing, when you go full lock in a parking lot or somewhere and you are traveling real slow.

The best way I can describe the sound is like the coil spring is actually shifting in the perch, and all that force it has is moving something. IDK.

I had an aquaintance of mine hear it when we were in my car. He is an old-school mechanic that works in his fathers shop, that has been in his family. The minute he heard the noise he said "that noise means you need control arm bushings. You might as well just get poly, rubber ones will just soften up down the road again. Easy enough job, if you wanna do them just throw me a few bucks to give my dad for using his shop, and I will help you."

Now that said, I have waited. I want to re-do the whole thing all at once with new everything when I lower the car eventually.

 

It is my understanding that you can't take the bushings out while the control arm is in position right? Doesn't that mean you have to take the springs out? I've heard that springs are a bitch.

 

Correct. Yes. Yes.

JamesC

 

Yea, that's why I am hesitant to do something like this myself. I'd at least need a mechanic to remove and replace the springs - I don't want to even touch those things myself.

 

Well there not that bad if your use to working on front ends, I use a floor jack to put in the spring.Yes Control arms must come off vehicle to replace.

 

Yeah, but there was a thread on here before. I guess you can take the springs out with a floor jack, but you cant put them back in. Supposedly the spring is so stiff, that it will start to lift the car off the jackstands before the ball joint can be threaded on.