I may have the wrong section, but I do not think so.

I painted my engine compartment in my white 89 formula.
I removed my strut bearing mounts along with everything else.
This car is going to be a daily driver / cruise night type of car.

I have had poly bushinged, sphericaled suspensions on 3rd gens currently and prior.
This is going to be a cruiser/driver. I do not want a more harsher ride than necessary.
So I want to stay stock as possible. WS6 is harsh enough.

I am going to get an UMI strut bar in red and since that bar bolts to the strut mount itself.
So I sent the strut mounts out to get powdercoated to match the bar.
A white car with a factory silver TPI with a touch of red should look good.
I am also looking for a fancier cap with a 2 3/4" hole for the top,
other than the black tee pee plastic one as well, but that is a question for another section.

The other day the powdercoat folks told me that they could not do the mount because they would mess up the rubber on the inside during the baking process.
They wanted to know if the could drill out the 5 "rivets" that hold the top and bottom plates together, so they could remove the bushing and perform the powdercoating.
I would just have to hold the two halves together until I get the three bolts in when I go to reinstall it, so they told me.

I had an extra around the house and decided to see what they were proposing. here are some pics:





Now they were correct, after drilling the 5 holes and separating it the bushing came right out with slight pressure from my thumb.

The question I have is will it go back together safely with just the three adjustment nuts?

 

No answer to your question, but I'll offer some food for thought:

I didn't experience any difference in ride quality with my after market version (Spohn).

You'll probably experience more benefit by replacing the OE mount with after market than by purchasing an STB alone (the STB counters flex, but the rubber in the OE mount will continue to flex). Best best is after market mount and STB.

The UMI version is very nice and can be had in red:

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=402

Good luck with your project.

JamesC

 

Sorry, as I don't have any answers for you but I am in the middle of paint/powder coating the engine bay and if I can take them apart and put them back together I will also powder coat them.

 

i would at least have them tack welded or riveted back together so the two plates dont slide apart whne they are adjusted on the car. That will be an issue after they are coated however.

 

I'd buy the hot parts/founders performance mounts with spherical bearings over powercoating the stock mounts. They're $170 at founders and much high quality piece than factory.

 

Well, I got the strut mounts back from the powdercoater this last thursday.



I am not going to try to hold the two halves together with the three adjusting nuts.
There are 5 holes where the two halves join. I am afraid that there will not be enough pressure to hold the bushing from not spinning.

I am going to make a thin steel or stainless steel plate and weld some threaded rod to it, where the 5 holes are. Use some stainless hardware to squeeze the two halves together.

I am looking at adding an 1/8" maximum to the hieght of the strut mount.
Since the UMI brace bolts directly to the mount, just how close to the hood is an UMI strut brace?

Thank You for your suggestions and the aftermarket strut mounts are very nice, but $60 for powder coating I acheived the look and detail that I desired.
Then add $14 for centercaps for a 6000lbs axle from tractor supply puts me at just under $75. I will probably add poly bushings mounts and end links for the sway bars and add the strut brace. That will be the extent of the handling upgrades. The wonderbar and frame connectors I do not count as handling upgrades, but as required frame supports.

 

the stb from UMI should clear all camaro hoods, but it doesnt clear the trans am/gta hood without some clearancing of the under hood structure.

without a solid bearing mount of some kind, you will not get the full effect of the STB, since there will still be deflection in the rubber bushings. Sombody, i thought it was GRound control, used to sell a solid bearing inset to replace the stock rubber bushing in the stock mount, and it offered more adjustment as well. I searched and could not find it though.

here it is, could probably find a better price if you looked. but it is kinda expensive.
http://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_part&id=351

 

Didn't have to make a plate at all !

Went and got some stainless 1/4 - 20 X 1/2 bolts with stainless washers.

With the two halves clamped together, I then drilled and tapped 4 holes.

I had another mount laying around, so I drilled/tapped and then screwed in the bolt with the washer.
Out came the Dremel, with the cutting wheel, trimmed all 8 so no extra would pop out the back side.

Put them on the car, what do you think?

 

not sure if the threads are going to be the best since the material is so thin, but so long as the bolts dont vibrate loose, all should be good.

 

Looks real good!