ok i thought i had my mind set on spohn, now keep in mind i have no experience yet with any of these companies. i just liked the options from spohn. however it seems on some threads there are lots of complaints of fitment issues. wonderbar, a arms making tires rub on fenders etc. I realize even "bolt-on" parts are never really bolt on but at the same time i won't want to waste $1500 on parts and have all kinds of problems. i just wanted some opinions. I am literally about to hit check out button. lol.

 

UMI, UMI, UMI........

 

I've got some things from Spohn and have no complaints. Truthfully, any of those companies are fine, people just seem to defend whatever they have purchased. But there are plenty of guys running parts from all of those vendors.

 

That's a pretty general statement, I run my own shop, I've installed suspension parts from all 3 cos., on 5or 6 different thid and fourth gen Camaros. The UMI stuff fits better and is made of better quality than Spohn or BMR, in fact I am changing my current torque arm setup from BMR to UMI....

 

i've used parts from all three and actualy no difference on quality, that means all are top-notch so choose what You can get cheapest

best regards

 

My spohn sub frame connectors... Luv em...
My spohn a arms with new springs... tires rub in back... giving them some time to settle because the springs are new and it's riding higher than normal...

Rafael

 

You won't have that problem w/the UMI A-arms, even w/ new springs....

 

I've hard the UMI have "other" problems... so I got my stock ones back to upgrade in a few months if I need to...

 

Instead you won't have steering stops or a spring index. Spohn A-Arms work perfect with their k-member.

 

ok so maybe it will be parts then from all three.

 

Truthfully, not much difference between the three. However I have had Spohn and BMR and I prefer BMR because I like their new hammertone coating better than the regular powdercoat that spohn does.

 

I swapped in Moog replacement springs several years ago. The car rode high, so i waited for the springs to 'settle', which I'd often read about. Long story short, after the passing of nearly a year, the springs hadn't 'settled' even a fraction that I could account for. I'll be eager to see what results you experience.

JamesC

 

^^^THIS

I've bought parts from all three and prefer UMI for their customer service.

Sometimes depends on the part - i.e. of the three, only BMR makes a battery relocation bracket (which I have).

 

So as long as you spend several hundred more dollars on THEIR parts (the crossmember), the a-arks will work perfect?

Tires rub in back....That seems to be a common thing with Spohn a-arms until the customer drops several more hundred dollars on the Spohn crossmember to "fix" it.

 

Well, I'm giving it a few months... if it doesn't "fix" it, I still have my stock a arms, I got some global west del bushings and new moog ball joints... so either way, it will get fixed and I'll either be selling the spohn, or the global west / moog parts...

 

I have parts from all 3, it's a matter of what design you like. For example i have a bmr strut bar and UMI strut bar, i personally like the UMI better because you dont have to drill any holes. I also have sphon K-member with UMI A arms and those fit fine. For the most part i buy UMI pieces because i take advantage of their sales throughout the year and that saves me money.

 

Shows what info you know- My STOCK A-ARMS had the same issue.

 

I'm partial to Spohn, but BMR and UMI are solid as well.

 

Multiple posts about Spohn a-arms rubbing, yet they install the Spohn crossmember & the rubbing STOPS, with no other change? That clearly points out a manufacturing defect that is solved by spending even more $ with the company.

If a person put 16" wheels on a 15" wheel steering box & yeah.....Things are gonna rub. The internal steering stops are different.

 

My parts preference- If its an aftermarket part in question and there are various types the same (or very very close to the same) I choose the innovator or original company to FIRST come out with the design.


Wonderbar- Global West (largest and strongest. 2nd- I will take Lons at TDS for the innovative design of easy of install and fitment.

A-arms- stock Just replace the bushings with Global West Delrin. Want to upgrade to paly with A-arm length for geometry benefits in setup? Spohn with Delsphere joints.

Kmember- THE STOCK UNIT!!! You do NOT need to weaken this part of the chassis or seek lower sprung weight. Better ways to lower sprung weight like up high in the hood or an aluminum bumper support, or aluminum heads, etc. Kmembers are a wate of money unless a lightweight nosed full time drag car.

Struts- Over the counter? Koni Yellows- custom adjustable or custom valved? Varistruts.

Balljoints- Afco low friction

Tierods- Baer bumpsteer kit, stock Inners from Moog

Swaybars and springs- I will leave out of it because this can vary greatly with setups and chassis weights. Bushings and endlinks? Just ES will do (Energy Suspensions) at your local Autozone.

Strut Mounts- J&M Hotparts.

Strut tower brace- Nothing on the market I like- they all need to be customised in some fahion for vehicle specific fitment and reinforcement. Links swivels are bad, rigid is good- third point firewall attachment is a MUST HAVE option.

Brakes- Lighter the better. This needs $$$$ options for low unsprung weight and rotation weight. Nothing over 13" fronts and 12" rears needed.

Spindles- Only one option- Racecraft 2" lowered spindles (Light and good front Roll center location as well as much better camber curve over stock)

Wheelstuds and lugnuts- ARP and Rays.

Steering box- Lee Manufacturing (stay away from the AGR crap)

Subframe Connectors- It is very hard to beat Spohn's second design- the round tube units he currently sells. I am not a fan of square tube SFC's nor am I a fan of inner chassis units. Some like to double them up with outer pail units and inner chassis units. in that case I take Alstons and Spohns, but would rather chave a cage and Spohns. Spohns SFC's are adequate size for good chassis strength, they tuck away GREAT, AND lastly they can be increment welded along the span of the SFC to the floor rails they fit that close and well. [Cage- S&W is hard to beat price and fitment]

Driveshaft= Even though I think the owner is an *******= ACPT carbon fiver driveshafts.

LCA's- Spohn delspere units hands down. THe best bushing for race and street durabilty unless you go the very upscale expensive rodends I ran at $90 each. $400 just on LCA rodends gets steep for most pocketbooks. Delsphere it is-CM units of course for lightest unsprung weight.

Relocation brackets- BMR bolt on units (BUT WELD THEM. THey have the extra support arm for coilover strength) My next 3rd gen will have rear coilovers with Spohns upper shock support brace (which happened to be my design I offered to Spohn years ago)


TqArm= Stock length with bracket OFF the transd and onto the crossmenber= Spohn adjustable with custom rodend attached for strength.

Shorter length TQ arm- Global West all the way.

Panhard adjuster (axle side only)- JEGS

Panhard rod- anything adjustable with the adjusters in position so you can do so without removal of a mount. Spohn I think innovated this design- Correct me if I am wrong. Chassis side can be urethane and the axle side can be delsphere with the second adjuster along that side for ease of adjusment.

Carrier- depends on what you are doing and what axle sixe you have and what HP you lay down. Stock I like Auburn PRO unit for street use.

Axles- Flange drilled units- I have had two different Moser axles go bad on me in my lifetime, I will never buy from Moser again. Anything else but them.

Im tired, what did I miss?

NOTE: THiS IS MERELY MY PERSONAL OPINIOIN amd what I would purchase right now if doing so.

 

I have never seen proof of this. No wheelbase #'s ever verified such claims. The cars do this stock with altered setup adjustments or incorrect install adjustments. Every claim of Spohn being incorrect is unsubstantiate and a false rumor. I proved the last guy WRONG.

 

I can't agree more. There are so many copy cats out there. I'm willing to pay for innovation.

 

I have BMR and UMI suspension/chassis parts on my car. All parts fit as described and have had no problems with either company.

 

As you said, "No wheelbase #'s ever verified such claims." That doesn't prove you RIGHT and everyone else WRONG.... I installed new springs, new Spohn a arms and supposedly my tires are bigger than stock (haven't found the stock size for a 91 formula) and tires rubbed (they didn't before).... spohn is still part of that equation...

I don't have my own shop, or endless $$$ to have my car dis assembled and measure both parts side by side... so if anyone has a stock A arm and a spohn one sitting around, by all means... spohn has still not replied to my inquiry... I'm sure I'm not the first person to ask them about this from all the posts I'm reading...

 

all 3 companies are good to go. just stay away from spohn a arms! i got mine from them a few years ago and they lowered my car. i contacted them about it after reading others had the same problem with there a arms. i had eibach sportlines on it and with the stock a arms on it was just over 1.5 inch drop from stock. when i put the a arms on it went to about 2.25 inch drop. i was told they have heard of a few droping a 1/4 inch but not that much. well i also heard about sportlines having trouble with sagging and decided i didnt want the car slammed and got the prokit springs. now the car is still almost 3/4 inch lower then it should be. i just put my sportlines on my friends 90 iroc with stock a arms and his car only dropped 1.5 inch. so i know it wasnt a spring issue. my spohns are comming off and im going with either bmr or umi. most of my other parts are all spohn and i love them!

 

Luvofjah- You say Spohn is part of that equation, but so are you- don't be so quick to blame. I showed you your problem. you did not take my advice and measure what I asked. I say its your fault with the mismatched parts and geometry that does not warrent factory specs. Its not your Spohn A-arms.

86-irocterror= You say nothing about fore and aft placement of the wheel in the wheel well. You issue is ride height and this will vary with sportlines and prokit EVENON FACTORY ARMS because car weights and options vary as well as isolator bushing age and condition. Granted, aftermarket arms with spring indexes will vary slightly in position compareed to stamped metal a-arms but will render the height within about 1/4" There are the other factors I list that vary the same if not more.

More on ride height- I think it was Blythe that posted the thread a few years back having everyone list their "build sheet" with factory weights and bias. This showed major differences in factory car weights based on year of car and options. For anyone to think they can buy a set of springs and that spring be a mind reader to sit your car where YOU think it should be is rediculous. That is just naive. It took me with vast experience 3 tries to get my car where I wanted it. To get ride height and ride quality correct? Very very difdficult and time consuming.

 

I'm in the process of installing BMR A-arms in the front and I installed a UMI adjustable torque for the rear. Both are very nice units with very good workmanship and I have had no issue with either customer service.

 

as usually guys thanks for all the great input.

 

Wow great info guys.........


I'm getting ready to start my lq9 swap into my 91 v6 firebird
And I'm been reading reading reading and reading so much so my head hurts lol

I'm going t be doing this in my uncles driveway ans will only have a short amount of time to start and finish it all so I'm working on my parts list now and was wondering about these three and how they held up so thanks keep all the info coming