Before you guys tell me to search i tried and could only find info on the brands. My questions is specifically which subframes would be better?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Spohn...item43a536964f

or

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/82...arbmr-1-2.aspx

Just a little info... the main reason i want them is that my roof is creaked at the top back corner of the side windows. After talking to some fellow third gen owners who had the same problem and said that after they put subframe connectors it didn't do it any more.

Just curious if the spohn ones are worth the money or a waste of money?

 

Well the first link isnt for a third gen so I would go with the second http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/82...arbmr-1-2.aspx

Summit or Jegs has good choices.]

Are you asking if you should get bolt on or weld in? If so--- Weld in

 

You are absolutly corrected sorry I wasn't pay attention. I guess my problem is solved. Thanks,

 

No problem.. Hey PM me after you decide and install though.. I need to invest in some like yesterday also..

 

i agree the umi subframe connectors are the best ones to buy, fonzie you should check out umi's site, keep a towel on hand though things could get messy for you! lol

 

lol great. well i just ordered the umi connectors so ill keep you guys posted and post pics once i get them installed.

 

i dont like everything about the Spohn connectors, especially the fact they cost 200 bux and aren't even coated, but aside from that, i like them better because they are round tube, and that looks better to me, not the best way to select a product though....

 

I take the round tube design Spohn has over the square tube UMI has any day of the week. UMI's claims that square tube has greater torsional resistance is not true to this type of application. Square tubing needs to be 'ladder bar contructed" to have torsion rigidity otherwise they will in fact twist. the Spohn units fit gret into the drip rails and can(and should) be welded along the span in about 1" increments about ever 1 1/2" both on the inside AND the outside of the SFC lengths on each side. THis ties the span of the SFC's into the shear length of the unibody so they stay together in unison, as well as completely take away any ability for the round tubular design to twist. Square tube can still flex laterally and cause longitudinal drop when it does. The chassis undeerneath from one SFC on the left side to the other SFC on the right side do NOT tie into eachother in a ladder bar construction so the SFC's still can close together in chssis flex which will enable the square tube design to twist and thus drop in length.

This is so hard to put into a diagram because it is a 3 dimensional dynamic that is hard to model. Trust me I take the round tube perimeter SFC design stitch welded. It works great. And also as phil says, it works much safer also as a jacking point. As the car is raised laterally, the jack will not slip off the non-level flat surface- it stays centered around the round tube. We have this trouble in NASCAR alot with jacks slipping off the square tube ladder bar construction frames when hasingly jacked on a point other than the side jack position tab (which is a piece of round tube cut vertical for jack safety). Again, Sq tube is great for ladder bar style, but you DO NOT HAVE ROOM FOR THIS on a 3rd gen.

Herer is pics showing aprox were to stitch weld the Spohn SFC's in increments- both inside and outside of each individual SFC length on each side of the car. This is why its BEST to buy SFC's uncoated because they would be ALOT of powdercoating that needs to be grind off to weld them in properly.

 

Also, I am not trying to bash UMI in any way. From what I see that company is very talented in working with metal. I am merely pointing out the best design and explaining why it is best with knowledge, experience, and facts. My car also teeter tottored on curbs with this design welded in just as I described...and thats a fact. Picsd are posted already somewhere on this forum. I have yet to see another car test this with any other SFC design to prove me wrong.