I went to get my tires rotated and aligned but they came back with bad news.

I supposely need to replace my ball bearings, my struts and strut mounts.
I'm guessing either time or this last winter killed it haha(hit curb a few times).

Now why would you need to replace the strut mounts? They look like solid plates dunno how they figured they needed replaced. How do you tell? Is it just a saftey meaure or something?

And would you reccomend that I do all that myself? Is it that complicated? I've looked around and doesn't seem that bad. Anyway I need to get something done, the tires done even have 10k on them and the right one has half the tread as every other tire has. It's freaking ridiculous.

Also looked up the parts. Found them all cheaper than shop listed them for. Pretty funny huh?

Thanks

 

bajj JOINTS, not bearings.

strut mounts have a rubber bushing in them, that can be torn or otherwise fail. if you take the plastic cap off, you can see it, and if its obviously cracked or broken, it will be pretty apparent. Its a 25 years old car, chances are they are original, might as well change them.

balljoints need to be pressed in and out, you can do it with loner tools from autozone or such, but you really need air tools. Same with the struts, the bolts to the spindle are really really tight, and doing them be hand will be really tough. But not really a hdr job with the right tools. Stuts mounts are simple, especially if you have already taken the strut off.

Dont go for the cheap struts, monroe, gabriel, ect are all crap. Spend money here on good parts. You can always look do a search here and see what people recommend, buy the parts yourself, and have the shop install them.

Shops will ALWAYS make up parts, it normal. Just depends on what they are selling you. if they are selling you 20 dollar POS parts for 200bux, thats a rippoff, but a markup is normal (they have to make money to stay in business)

My opinion, its worth the investment to buy tools (good tools) and learn to do work like this yourself, you will save a crap-ton of money in the long run.

this sticky has a lot of good info and pictures.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...nsion-how.html

 

Here's what I ordered;

2x KYB 236001 GR-2 Struts

KYB SM5027 Strut Mount
KYB SM5028 Strut Mount

& some lower ball joints, which I got a great deal on, both lower bj for 20$

Yeah some people have bad things to say about them but there are also some good things.

Pretty much OEM which is cool with me. I'm on a college kid budget with no job so anyway.

Now I was thinking about replacing my spring coils too, at-least in the front.
But I don't want to do that unless it actually needs it. Where can I find proper ride height to check them out? I can't find it anywhere...Maybe I'm over thinking it.

Anyway of testing them as-well?

Hypothetically speaking the spring coils are alittle worn out- could that put great wear on my new struts? The car as it sits looks fine. It would be nice to find the factory height specs.

Thanks

 

factory height is hard, but its somewhere around 27.5 28" or so? ground to fender with a 25.7" tire. but it varies so much. If you liek where it sits, leave it alone.

 

Do you know whether or not it will affect the new struts if worn? Not sure if they are original spring coils or not

 

probably not, unless the car is sitting really low (stupid low) because the springs are totally shot or broken, then yes, the shorter length of the springs could cause issues tot he shocks in the long term, but without knowing anything else, its hard to say.

 

It doesn't sit bad from just looking but I'll measure

 

The strut mounts allow the struts to turn, as you steer the car. They have a bearing in there and it's mounted IIRC in a blob of rubber spooge. Both the bearing can go bad in ways that bearings typically do, and the spooge can disintegrate. Those are the reasons why they eventually need renewal.

 

Yeah? Hmmm Well I got new strut mounts as well

 

Today I realized why I not only love this car but ****ing hate it.

I've been on it all day long. I'm getting sick and tired of the bullshit

I've read through two of my manuals and this forum how to and still cannot get the freaking ball joint off. Took along time to get the freaking strut off and then this crap.

I cannot get the rotor/spindle off of the ball joint. It simple refuses. I'm guessing the ball joint comes up through the bottom, am I correct? Not through the top press below? Or am I mixed up????

Attached images of the garbage.

 

I like to pull the rotor to get the struts nuts and bolts to me its easier plus gives you a chance to re-pack the wheel bearings or replace the bearings and races. or rotors whatever.
To get the spindle to come off the ball joint -

I like to use this.


If i plan on replacing parts and feel reckless i use this

 

How does that first tool work? I'm trying to imagine it but cant.
The second one I imagine you place under the spidle and pry?

I'd assume you could use a sledge hammer on the balljoint threaded side?

Also, I already replaced my rotors and bearings not long ago that's why I didn't want to take off the rotor.

 

Your pushing the ball joint stud out of the spindle. The tools lags rests on the bottom base of the spindle as you turn the threaded rod down onto the top of the ball joint stud it puts pressure on it and forces/pushes it out . Just like removing a steering wheel or harmonic balancer... very simple. The pickle fork is a more cruel way of getting the stud to separate it self from the spindle it works fine if you want to tear up boots and possibly **** up threads or damage parts but if your already plan to replace them then fine. you put it between the spindle and ball joint and use a hammer, sledge whatever. Your basically using a wedge that's creating pressure on both the ball joint/lower control arm and bottom spindle each blow of the hammer drives it deeper and creates more pressure between the two eventually splinting them apart same principal as a wood wedge. You can still take the rotors off with out repacking them if your careful

 

Thanks man, that helps a alot

 

Your welcome, not a problem!

 

Lets hope I get it done tomorrow! haha...
I'll update then!

 

Don't be surprised when the strut mount retainers from your 86 won't fit the above mounts. Check the following link for more info:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...elp-quick.html

JamesC

 

Fits perfectly bro.

Also that balljoint press is the worst tool ever to try and press the joints back in. It would absolutely not press the balljoint in straight. No matter how slowly and carefully you went. It always went in crooked.

We are doing a different method tomorrow. It worked getting it out but that doesn't cut it.

 

GM made two versions of the retainers, 82-86 and 87-92. The two aren't interchangeable as demonstrated in the link I provide above. Since after market mounts are based on the 87+ mounts, your perfect fit is interesting (perhaps your car was late enough in the model year to have been equipped with the later type).

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...-92-Style.html

JamesC

 

Here you go-

 

So the 86 retainer fits the mount you picture above? If so, it would appear that the mounts have been redesigned to make one hole rectangular. A one-fit, 82-92, mount would be cool.

JamesC

 

=D

 

Excellent. Good to know about the redesign. Thanks for the pics.

EDIT: The above mounts are OE replacements. After market versions, such as Spohn's or HotParts, will still require the correct retainer (unless you're willing to mod a brand new piece).

JamesC

 

No problem dude

 

That's actually pretty cool... there's been people who have bought those, discovered they wouldn't fit, and made that EXACT alteration to them.

Almost like that mfr has been trolling this board.

 

Hahaha yeah.

I have a question now that I got my balljoint on:

I forget what order these things go in. Well except the ring which it goes around the boot. But where does the small ring go? Over or under the boot?

Anyway- success. Started going crooked but kept going and *POP*
Wooo! haha finally. I also froze the balljoint overnight.

 

I got one side done. I'm not totally sure on that boot placement- was I suppose to cut the rest off? Or does it matter?

I'm done with that side like I said besides torqing the castle nut and placing the pin in. It's pretty tight but I want to be correct. Just trying to get the other balljoint out now. I will finish the second side in the morning.

If I wandered off just let me know. The balljoints seem pre-greased but I'd guess just to put more in it anyway soon.

The ring unnecessary?

 

Also what kind of dust covers should I get? I can't seem to find anything.

I didn't end up taking off the originals and the mounts are so stuck it seems impossible to get to the old covers...

I guess I could look at it again.

 

Bump, I could use some help on the covers and some replies on the balljoint boot. Is that going to work?

 

Okay well its all done, haven't got an alignment yet but finally done and greased haha...
Never want to do that again...

Though I do have a slight pop, I think its somewhere else. Check it out, still not totally sure. Happens in turning. I'll look at it later I suppose.