Spring and Shocks
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Lincoln, NE
Car: 86 Iroc-Z28
Engine: 5.3
Transmission: 4l60
Supreme Member
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 37
From: North Central Indiana
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 383
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44 IRS
Re: Spring and Shocks
what do you plan to do with the car? are you concerned with straight line performance or cornering?
Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 414
Likes: 1
From: wisconsin
Car: 1992 Pontiac Firebird Base
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700r4, B&M shifter & shift kit inst
Axle/Gears: 3:23....10 bolt
Re: Spring and Shocks
Moog front and rear...and KYB AGX's to top it off (KYB's are sweet and cheap shocks/struts)
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Lincoln, NE
Car: 86 Iroc-Z28
Engine: 5.3
Transmission: 4l60
Supreme Member
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 37
From: North Central Indiana
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 383
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44 IRS
Re: Spring and Shocks
I'd go with Moog springs and KYBs then. Not worth the money for Koni shocks if you're not serious about cornering. Do a search on the moog springs, there is a lot of info on them here..
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Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
From: Winnipeg
Car: 91 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:73
Re: Spring and Shocks
x2
im running the yellows and like the adjustible option, not sure if the red is adjustible or not.
eibach pro kit is great, the roads where i live suck big time and have no issues. if the pro kit is not low enough you can always remove the insulators and use a heater hose.
im running the yellows and like the adjustible option, not sure if the red is adjustible or not.
eibach pro kit is great, the roads where i live suck big time and have no issues. if the pro kit is not low enough you can always remove the insulators and use a heater hose.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Zumbrota, MN
Car: 1986 Camaro Berlinetta
Engine: 5.0 305 4bbl LG4
Transmission: AT 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi
Re: Spring and Shocks
I'm running on cc635 rear springs which are IROC OEM replacement spring except they are from autozone but they are the same exact thing as the moogs only half the price. I have Gabriel HiJakcer air shocks in the rear filled to 60 psi to boost my car over my wide tires. I have Gabriel Ultra front struts and still have the stock front springs. The car has a little bit of body roll while turning because of the variable rate coils in the rear but I am really happy with how it rides.
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 547
Likes: 0
From: Europe->Poland->Warsaw
Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 305 LT1 intake&heads
Transmission: TH700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10bolt GM
Re: Spring and Shocks
i run KYB AGX + Eibach Pro-kit and they do the job for daily drive, goin' track/strip? just adjust shocks and you'r ready to race
best regards
best regards
Re: Spring and Shocks
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,804
Likes: 2
From: Raleigh, NC
Car: 1988 Flame Red Trans am GTA
Engine: Forged 355 4 Bolt, FIRST TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: ls1 torsen 3.42 gear
Re: Spring and Shocks
if you love cornering pro-kit, koni yellows and good tires..... that would make a world of difference..
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,482
Likes: 10
From: Northern, CA
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Camaro
Engine: TBI,5.0
Transmission: Automatic 700R4
Axle/Gears: Eaton Posi,3.42,LPW Ultimate Cover
Re: Spring and Shocks
I have looked at allot of threads and for a Daily Driver and Ive decided to go with the Moog 5662 front springs with KYB GR-2 struts, and Moog 5665 rear springs with KYB Gas-A-Just rear shocks. Hoping to get a nice firm ride,with out breaking the bank.
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; Sep 7, 2011 at 02:32 AM. Reason: add info.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Lincoln, NE
Car: 86 Iroc-Z28
Engine: 5.3
Transmission: 4l60
Re: Spring and Shocks
Leaning towards this as they seem to have good reviews and have been suggested to me a few times let me know how it rides thanks
Supreme Member
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,804
Likes: 2
From: Raleigh, NC
Car: 1988 Flame Red Trans am GTA
Engine: Forged 355 4 Bolt, FIRST TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: ls1 torsen 3.42 gear
Re: Spring and Shocks
you might want to look at how high a car sits with those springs.... i had those same springs correctly indexed and i hated the look.. waaay too much fendergap.... so i went with the prokit and couldnt be happier
Re: Spring and Shocks
The moog springs need to be cut, you are looking at a minimum of 1/2 coil front 3/4 rear. The good news is you get a little more spring rate out of them that way.
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,482
Likes: 10
From: Northern, CA
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Camaro
Engine: TBI,5.0
Transmission: Automatic 700R4
Axle/Gears: Eaton Posi,3.42,LPW Ultimate Cover
Re: Spring and Shocks
I know this is not my thread but am hoping the OP dose not mind me asking questions. It seems that we both are working towards the same goal. It would be nice to see a car with the uncut Moog springs (side shot if possible)
Also do you need a alignment after replacing front struts ?
If not ,do you need a alignment when replacing front struts and springs ?
Also do you need a alignment after replacing front struts ?
If not ,do you need a alignment when replacing front struts and springs ?
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; Sep 7, 2011 at 04:05 PM. Reason: add info.
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iTrader: (9)
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 37
From: North Central Indiana
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 383
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44 IRS
Re: Spring and Shocks
I have replaced struts and not done an alignment as long as the car was lined up correctly to begin with you'll likely be fine. In theory you could lower the car and not change the alignment(depending on how much you lower it), but I've not done that. You should at least have the toe checked after you lower it just to be sure. Double and tripple check your idler arm and center link for wear as these items seem to take the most abuse. If they are worn and need replaced you CERTAINLY need a re-alignment.
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