well i noticed after i cut half a coil off my rear springs my spohn tq arm is hitting the rear floor board on hard hits or unloading of the rear end. has anyone else had this problem? i am going to adjust the angle tomorrow after work and see if that helps. (never did after cutting springs)

 

Yeah those will do that... there's a part of it that sticks out to the side a good bit farther than stock, and it hits the side of the tunnel just in front of the pumpkin.

Mine have both done it (T-5 & T-56) and my car isn't even lowered.

The place it hits is completely harmless. Eventually it'll dent the floor in enough that it will mostly quit. You could even pop the rear and the TA out from under the car, dent that place with a BFH, and put them back in, if the temporary hitting noise really bothers you. Only takes a few minutes to do that.

 

This pretty much covers it. Like mentioned this is common with aftermarket torque arms and it becomes worse as a vehicle is lowered.

 

You know, I have heard that many time, but I have not had that problem. I have the Spohn torque arm. I have significantly rounded that sharp corner that would hit the floor pan, and I bet that has helped a lot. I have also centered my axle with a panhard bar, that probably helps as well.

I am not exactly high in the rear. My rear fenders are at 26" from the ground.

So my recommendation would be to round the corner with a grinder and make sure the axle is centered in the car.

 

the OP seems to have an axle with 30 spline axles and 3:73's, so its an aftermarket axle of some kind. That can move the TA a little bit too. The Spohn amr shoudl have 2 sets of holes for the mount, IDK which set its using, but maybe it can be moved?

My UMI arm rubs the side of the tunnel a little, nothing big, but the TA mount itself on my moser 9" punched a hole on the floor behind the rear seat....

 

mine is close to punching a hole thru the floor as well, I'll be cutting it out and boxing it in this winter while putting in larger mini tubs.

 

Just a few other tips I didn't add to my last post.

Most aftermarket torque arms are supplied with two sets of mounting holes. The outer holes allow the torque arm to slide closer to the rear end and away from the tunnel area. However, in order to do this you usually need to use a reciprocating saw or similar to cut off the first set of holes. On the Moser 9" rear ends you can slide the torque arm bracket into the outer holes with out any cutting.

Second, make sure the rear end is centered under the vehicle. If it is not an adjustable panhard bar can be used to move the rear centered and sometimes can gain more clearance.

 

i think i'll adjust the pinion angle tonight and give it a few turns on the panhard bar. i do have an adjustable one. it seems the car has settled even more and is hitting more often. it's kind of disturbing to hear a thunderous thud going over bumps. i have the moser 12bolt and i might not have the room to use the outer mounting holes on the tq arm because i have a 3.5" driveshaft. i'll look more and let you know what fixes this, hopefully!

thanks by the way for the suggestions!

 

well it's a lot better but still hits on hard bumps. i'll let nature take it's course!!