utfan01ss

iTrader: (1)

Currently my steering still feels tight like it should but I'm replacing most of the parts anyway since I'll be tearing the whole suspension apart. But does a center link actually wear out? I can see if one is bent then it would need replacing but is it necessary to replace a center link when replaced inner and outer tie rod ends?

So far I've bought a whole new suspension for my 89 IROC, and it has not been cheap by any means. Below is a list of what I currently have but I'm not sure if I need to spend the extra hundred dollars for a part that may not need replacing.

1.) Koni Yellows, front and rear
2.) Eibach Sportline springs
3.) UMI tubular lower control arms and panhard bar, double adjustable with spherical rod ends.
4.) UMI caster / camber plates
5.) MOOG ball joints
6.) MOOG inner and outer tie rod ends
7.) MOOG idler arm
8.) SSBC 1LE brake kit
9.) UMI SFC's
10.) UMI strut tower brace
11.) Energy Suspension polyurethane A-Arm bushings
12.) UMI torque arm

ATCFLYBOY02

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the centerlink will go bad... I've got to replace mine and an idler arm this weekend...

utfan01ss

iTrader: (1)

Ok, guess I'll order one just to be safe then. Thanks

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

It has 2 ball joints (not "the" ball joints of course) in it, so yes, they go bad.

The Pitman arm on these cars OTOH has NO ball joints in it so they DON'T go bad.

Different cars have that choice of component location arranged differently.

Best way to change it out is to take the entire linkage out, leaving the idler arm and Pitman arm in place; buy new adjuster sleeves (not because they go bad, but because they're CHEEEEEEEEEEP and they make this next move possible); set the whole thing on the ground; assemble the new center link, rod ends, and adjuster sleeves, on the ground; lay it next to the old one and adjust it until it's exactly the same length everywhere; then put it on. It'll be close enough to not be too terribly scary on the drive to the alignment shop.

91 Droptop

What is the best way to remove the centerlink from the pitman arm? I can build the new one on my worktable next to the old one. I have the other side off (bracket that is on the rail)

58mark

iTrader: (3)

just replace the pitman arm at the same time. it's easy to take off as a unit

91 Droptop

That is not what I asked

58mark

iTrader: (3)

i guess you could beat on it with a pickle fork until the two come apart, spend your time replacing one, worn out component while leaving other, worn out components in place.

yeah, that sounds real intelligent. wear yourself out genius, I'm done trying to help you

91 Droptop

Forget it, I do not have the time or patience for this tonight

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The pitman is a non-wear item. I've never experienced good luck with a pickle fork under any circumstance, but that's only me. A puller seems to be much more efficient--IIRC, I rented one from AutoZone the last time.

JamesC

91 Droptop

Thanks James, the previous owner swapped that out 12 years ago when he did the steering box, that was one of the reciepts he gave me. I am going to replace the entire steering linkage now, do you think a hand held ball joint press would work? I have one at the shop

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

I really don't think so, but I'm not terribly familiar with the press (a look-see might be worth while). IIRC, I used a pitman arm puller.

JamesC

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

I doubt the PO replaced the Pitman arm; I don't think it's even AVAILABLE to purchase. Since it doesn't wear out, there's no market for it. Only way you'd need to replace it is if it got bent, which if something came along and could do THAT, there'd probably be AHELLUVALOT more stuff tore up than just the Pitman arm. After all, it's ½" thick tool steel, while the "frame" that holds the gear that then holds IT, is just some 14- or maybe 12-gauge cold-rolled sheet metal.

I'd suggest leaving it alone and getting the little puller tool James spoke of to pop the center link out of it. Piece o cake.

91 Droptop

It is on a workorder reciept he had from when he changed out the steering box, either way I will take the advice and use a puller, thanks

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Well that makes sense: because what ACTUALLY happened therefore was, the "mechanic" didn't remove the old one from the old box, OR the new one from the "new" box either; he just stuck the "new" box on with its existing arm. He therefore did LESS work, but found a way to charge MORE for it by charging for the part he didn't have to touch. Pretty clever, eh??

Ever wonder why I do my own work as much as possible and advise others to do the same?