I've lower my car with Hotchkis springs and I have new shocks all around. I also have SSM weld in sub frame connectors and a strut tower brace. Now I'm looking into rebuilding the front end, nothing to crazy. I found these on hawks site http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/ca...ebuildkit.aspx
I'm also looking into replacing the stamped metal rear end parts. I'm probably going to go with UMI Performance parts. I have there LCARB and they were a good quality and they make all there parts in the USA. I see a lot of the parts they sell are adjustable, is that really needed??? Thinking of starting with this. http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=140

 

You might consider after market strut mounts with spherical bearings, along with the STB, to help eliminated flex.

JamesC

 

my main question do I really need to get adjustable suspension parts, or are non adjustable just as good for the most part?

 

That's a good question I wonder what the difference is?

 

depends on how much racing and how much adjusting you plan to do on the car. most likely, if you're asking this question, just get the non-adjustables. I (probably along with most others) would recommend the adjust panhard bar so that you can make sure the rear end is centered after lowering the car. otherwise, just get the non-adjustable parts. they'll be stronger than stock but will save you money over the adjustables that probably won't make much difference for you.

 

something else to think about is the bushings. the non adjustable pieces only have poly ends, a downgrade really, since they bind and dont let the piece articulate as it should. you wont notice this driving to work and back, but if you start pushign the car hard, the weakness will show.

 

If the rear isn't squared, adjustable LCA's can correct the issue. That said, most rear ends are probably in spec. Mine's a bit off and since I'm **** in such matters, I'll throw in some BMR's come spring.

JamesC

 

86TA pretty much said it. The benefits of the adjustable pieces are more about having the better bushing setup. The non adjustable will be poly on both sides..... The adjustable ones will be poly on both, poly/spherical, poly/roto joint, spherical only, or rotojoint only.

Just because it's adjustable doesn't mean it will need to be adjusted. They'll come shipped to stock specs just like a non-adjustable piece would be.

 

I think its easier to get the adjustables. That way later down the road if you do decide you need to adjust stuff you can without having to buy more parts.

 

Adjustables will also let you correct for inaccuracies in either manufacture or installation of relo brackets, or even in the car itself where the axle isn't now perfectly square to the centerline (or never was to begin with).

If you're going to try adjusting any 'errors' out, go into it with the thought that having patience will be at least as important as having the right size wrenches and sockets.


Norm

 

Hey guys. For the builder looking to upgrade to stronger components and for a daily driver with really no other upgrades, we usually recommend non-adjustable. For lowering, racing, tuning, perfecting, etc. we recommend adjustable. The factory tolerances mentioned can stack and make your car be out of square. Adjustables help there. And also, like mentioned above, we have to carefully consider what type of application your car is intended for when choosing bushings. An occasional/daily driver with a drag pass or two can get along fine with poly. If you're going autocrossing every weekend it would be better to get Roto's.

Regardless of your application we can get you fixed up.

ramey