The following pictures show the brace forward way more than it needs to be, so that you can see how much smaller the gap is between the strut plate and the hole in the fender, in relation to the amount of material between the hole in the stb and the rearward edge of the brace.

My brace used to be on the car before I did my engine swap and it never got put back on. I've since had an alignment done and now the brace won't fit. The gap between the holes for the race and the shock mounts is smaller than it was before the alignment was done and now the base of the brace won't fit there.

Does anyone know how I can easily fix this? If I mount the brace with new holes where it is wanting to sit now, it sits a little to high and is causing a bit of stress on the hood. Does anyone sell a shock plate that has more adjustment? I realize the forward and backward adjustment is under the fender on the wish one shaped bracket, right?




For reference it has moved forward enough to also throw the firewall holes out of alignment

 

i have the same one. its an edelbrock brand. you will have to install it in pieces. so install the brackets first but leaving the bolts extra loose, then install the brace, again dont tighten anything, then the supports. its going to take so pulling and forcing because its a tight fit. so i slotted the holes on the bracket to make it easier. i have a fiberglass hood from an 83 so i had to lower the bar to bracket bolts to get hood clearance. hope it helps

 

if you need pics let me know

 

you can have some caster added to the alignment (where is it might i ask? you seem to have a lot of camber and not a lot of caster) that will get you some room back. The aftermarket mounts from J&M, UMI and Founders all have independent caster adjustment, so they may help too with clearance in this location.

that or modify the mounting brackets you have to work with the existing holes. Some cutting and welding will be needed

 

When the car was aligned the shop did it twice and it was still pulling to the left kinda hard, they said that was as good as they could get it without aftermarket camber/caster plates and/or adjustable a arms. It seemed to work itself out though because it drives straight now.

The issue with just egging out the holes on the strut tower brace bracket is that I need the center bar to be towards the rear where it originally was, otherwise it will be putting a bind in the hood and scuffing up the powder coating. It sits higher up the more forward it gets on the fenders.

I think I'm going to just have to dish out the money for the J&M plates, seems those have the most adjustment, plus the width of the plate on the outside of the slides is thinner than the other ones I've seen which will help my issue as well.

 

I had to make custom brackets to make mine fit

 

.

 

I can fab you up some new brackets and weld it up no problem, just drop the car off

It can use the original holes too, just looks like they added a bunch of adjustment from the first time, I like to run as much positive caster as possible for straight line drag stuff, I'm sure you got more of a road race alignment.

 

You could use shim washers under the STB bracket that are equal to the thickness of the strut mount. That way you can overlap your bracket on top of the flat part of the strut mount.