Chuck84TA

Just want some basic information in suspension options for my 1984 Recaro T/A.

Here is what I want:

Vette-like handling without lowering the car to the point of skinning road-kill.

The car has the stock WY-6 package, I guess the WS-6 got deleted somehow...

What upgrade options do I have?

Let's say the budget is around 500 to 1K

Chuck

85Iroc-Z

iTrader: (4)

A good set of shocks, struts, subframe connectors, and lower control arms would be a big difference.

TheMonster

Vette like handling? C4 Independent rear suspension?

Chuck84TA

What would be some good specific examples of shocks, struts, subframe connectors, and lower control arms ?

Chuck84TA

Yes and yes.

AlkyIROC

Cheapest route would be to buy a Vette

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

The biggest improvement in handling and general feel is going to come from shocks/struts. Spend the money there. The rest can wait. Having said that, I'd go with a set of Koni Yellows. They're about $800 for a set of four. It's a lot of money to shell out at once. That's why I did the rears first (about $250) and waited about half a year before I did the fronts.

I don't like lowered vehicles for a number of reasons. Hence I went with stock height spring replacements. The rear springs are easy to change with the rear shocks (no extra labor). The front springs are a whole different ballgame though. Stock height springs aren't expensive. But regardless they can wait. (Though I would change the rear springs out with the rear shocks just because)

With the other $200 left over after doing struts/shocks, I would look at either doing bigger sway bars or subframe connectors. For subframe connectors, I like the Alston and Spohn designs the best. But honestly all subframe connectors are better than nothing.

If all you do is new struts/shocks and nothing else, you will achieve about 80% improvement over what you have. They're extremely noticeable.

85Iroc-Z

iTrader: (4)

I have all UMI suspension parts and Bilstein shocks and struts and they made a big difference.

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

Koni yellows. Howe tall ball joints, Moog 5664 half coil cut and 5665 about 1.5 coils cut. junkyard 36/24 sway bar combo. Top it off with the biggest stickiest wheel and tire combo you can afford.
You might be able to do this for 1500. You'll need an adjustable panhard and probably new bushings too.
If you are competing on a road course i also highly suggest an adj. prop valve.

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

These things will put a smile on your face:

Strut Tower Brace.
Poly Bushings... sway bars first.... then other places... just threw out a torque arm one that would fit your car... sorry
Shocks and struts... not sure you need Koni Yellows... VERY stiff... quite spendy... at the other end, GR2s won't do the job you want.
Lower control arm relocation brackets
Sub frame connectors

Sometime some wheels and tire.... 4th gen 17s, or C5 17s & 18s will work nicely... you need two inch spacers.

Enjoy.

Chuck84TA

Everyone!
Thank you for your inputs !
Keep it coming !

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

Hey Chuck-
Forgot to add.... WHEN you do your shocks, find a fabricator to beef up the top rear shock mounts. Does not have to be elaborate, just put some plate up there. Otherwise, the gas shock will fatigue the mount and pull it out.
FIRST thing you want to do is polyurethane mounts and end bushings on your sway bars. Even if you later change sway bar size, do it now...... takes a lot of the goosh out... right there.
Maybe get a used STB to start. Anything up there is better than the flex inhabiting the area now.
Lots of folks go through several stages of tune on their suspension. Don't agonize over getting the best to start... it is very subjective. You will find where you car and the seat of your pants take you.