With the plate or cap your going to get rust and corrosion. At least with it open it dries properly. If it had a cap and stayed damp and built up salt it would be a problem.

Also I can't belive your calling them out on this now instead of rebulting his statment. Makes your side look weak.....

 

You've shown several times on this thread your lack of knowledge and understabding- yet you still try to contrubte.

Mindnightfire- The term is called "jacking down" of the strut.

John- Low risk is correct, bu tlook at the same issue with the racecraft spindle. One failure is enough for everyone to take them off. THis is just as dangerous becasue you can also loose a wheel assembly the same. It CAN be machined from the top and still be adjustable.

When it happens......whether that is 1 year from now or 10 years....I will make sure to revisit this thread and say I told you so. There is a risk period, a risk that can be avoided.

Goodbye.

 

John, I'll let you answer your own questions by simply giving you food for thought. There is alot that you and a few other here posting are missing.

Ever heard and seen rodend knock? That rodend knock is from failure from fatigue and lubrication because it is exposed and it takes a constant beating in radial cycled motion. Yes radial- in other words fore and aft- compression and tension. This is how swivel bearings ar designed. They are not primarily designed for axial force, their strengthen is in the radial direction. Yet, they seem to fail even in the radial direction and always eventually need replacing.

Now lets go further with this axial load. When the sphrical bearing takes axial load, it is not always straight up or straight down load at 90*. It's being hit at various angles depending on caster and camber specs along with dynamic mtion of the angle upon suspension travel. That bearing cup is always moving about. You must remeber it is always acted upon in radial force mostly while it is also being acted upon in axial force- this is where everyone is lost...everyone except myself. This is where I say most people do not understand dynamic chassis motions. When that bearing starts to eventually fatigue, and a bit of slop develops because the bearing is exposed to elements and is exposed to axial thrust as well as radial thrust- and effect starts to happen called the "slide hammer effect" where as the inner and outer cups of the spherical start pounding on eachopther- hence rodend knock. This slide hammer effect will start to wreak havoc on that little spiral lock. Consider time and corrosion and you now are looking a a big problem because that bearing can not hold lubrication and your beraring coatins have worn away

What then? Becasue you can't replace the bearing like you can in Spohns design. That was the whole point of a top snapring applications so the bearing is servicable without throwing out the entire strut mount. I know I service Rodends on my cars all the time, including ball joints, tierods, and u-joints. Those all have grease dust caps in them for a reason, to protect them from grim and corrosion. Funny thing is, even the stock factory strut mounts have dust caps engineered into them on the top side- go figure.

You guys are all looking at figures of something that is new and put together in a perfect world. No reason at all not to press fit this from the top with the lip machined into the bottom. and then find a better weay to protect the bearing.

No one has address my question either on the claim of a $17 bearing having more load rating than the $60 bearings I used. Remember, we are looking at both radial AND axial forces.

I think I have said all I need to warn people about here. Good day.

 

I think most issues have been addressed.

JamesC