After replacing the factory rubber trans mount about 5 times and the bolts every time, I decided to go with the Energy Suspension mount. Every time the original trans mount breaks, the bolts come with it, I got loctite and lock washers,and grade 10 bolts, should this work as far as keeping the bolts in? Also is the polyurethane trans mount only for strength?

 

No need for the thread locker. The poly mount has a metal 'hook' inside, so if it fails, it won't completely come apart on you.

 

For general info about ES, Prothane and OE rubber mounts, check the following:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ison-pics.html

Should you choose Poly, please provide results.

JamesC

 

Will it hurt to put thread locker on it? I've already bought the poly mount

 

I've never used thread locker, regardless of the mount type, and I've never experienced an issue.

JamesC

 

Right: no need for the special bolts, thread locker, or any of that.

The mount will break (after all, it's just rubber or poly or whatever) long before the strength limit of even the weeniest bolts is even remotely approached.

Just use the stock bolts to hold the mount to the trans, and the bolt that comes with the mount to hold it to the crossmember.

 

Id find the cause first, why have you had to do this 5 times, if replacing the mount isn't fixing your problem, look else where.

 

My dad and I have had the car for 6 or 7 years. Its been replaced 5 or 6 times in that time span. Mostly everything on the car has been replaced in the past 2 or 3 years. I don't have the factory bolts because every time the trans mount separates, it takes the bolts with it. What would cause it to do this?

 

Also trans got rebuilt about 4 years ago.

 

The OE mount attaches to the trans with two bolts, then has a single threaded piece which goes through the cross member and is bolted in place. Nothing complicated. I have no explanation of why you would lose anything.

JamesC

 

I can't figure it out either, maybe the vibration and jerking on the bolt would make come out eventually? To get the bottom piece off the cross member I had to make a flat tip screwdriver slot in the stud because all it did was spin.

 

Well when I still was using the stock mount, and still had the original 305 in it, I could put a brand-new one in it, back it down the driveway, and break it the first time I let out the clutch. All I had to do was make sure I got traction. Did it once just to prove it to myself. Did nothing but get worse- ALOT worse - when I swapped a 400 into the car. Then, I didn't even have to "try" any more. Didn't take long to figure out that I needed a more effective solution.

So no, breaking that 5 times over the life of the car, is by no means a positive indicator of "deeper" problems.

 

I just cant figure out what would be the problem. Everything on the car has been replaced recently. So I think its just old.