Re-Build

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May 9, 2013 | 08:43 AM

gregl316

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From: pnw near portland or.

Car: 91 RS convertible

Engine: 330 hp vortec 350. TBI

Transmission: 5 Speed

Axle/Gears: 3.73 Moiser 12 bolt/Wilwood disc's

Re-Build

I am re-building my 91 RS convertible. Everything but the suspension and steering is done. I have all new steering parts from MOOG. I have new rear control armes and adj panhard bar from Hiest and lowering springs. For the front I have new springs and heres my delema. I have new Ball joint and bushings from Moog but I ran across some tubular A-arms and K-member for 700. I want them but do I need them? What is the reason for them besides weight? Oh and the coolness factor? I haver new shocks and struts too from Monroe.

I have spared no expence on this car. It has a 330hp Vortec 350. A built 700r4 and a re-built w/gears and posi rear end. New paint interior and top. Whats another thousand? I have way more then the car is worrth in it.

Also should I get a torque arm and tranny mount? And drop bracketts for the rear control armes?

Help me spend my money.

May 9, 2013 | 10:58 AM

SlickTrackGod

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Re: Re-Build

Quote:

Originally Posted by gregl316

I all seriousnness, sparing no expenses would mean buying high end koni Shoks and struts at $700. You bought cheap Monroes. I would forget about even looking at a tubular Kmember setup that does absolutely nothing, and instead of going to expensive tubular A-arms with cheap shocks, you are FAR FAR better off returning those crappy Monroes and buying Koni Yellows with that money. You'll thank me later if you heed my advice- but I doubt you will. You aksed so I offered my opinion.

May 9, 2013 | 11:30 AM

Alice89

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From: DFW

Re: Re-Build

Quote:

Originally Posted by gregl316

Help me spend my money.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlickTrackGod

sparing no expenses would mean buying high end koni Shoks and struts at $700.

Amen. They are on sale at summit racing. I used to runcheap KYB’s, the Koni’s humiliate them. I have used Monroe's, they are pretty poor shocks.

Here’s a good review on the Koni’s:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...og-5662-a.html

The tubular K member will give you a lot of room to work around under the hood, and you loose some weight. What brand are they?

Theirs a lot of stuff you could do (like the Koni’s) that are a lot cheaper and will do a lot more for the money. If money’s not an issue for you, and you have to have the tubular set up then buy the set. But at the same time order some Koni yellow’s. You won’t regret it.

Here, I’ll give you direct link to them:

Shocks:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ko...5spt/overview/

Struts:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ko...0spt/overview/

Last edited by Alice89; May 9, 2013 at 11:37 AM. Reason: spelling

May 9, 2013 | 11:51 AM

SlickTrackGod

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Re: Re-Build

Quote:

Originally Posted by NOSHOWALLGO

Amen. They are on sale at summit racing. I used to runcheap KYB’s, the Koni’s humiliate them. I have used Monroe's, they are pretty poor shocks.

Here’s a good review on the Koni’s:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...og-5662-a.html

The tubular K member will give you a lot of room to work around under the hood, and you loose some weight. What brand are they?

Here, I’ll give you direct link to them:

Shocks:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ko...5spt/overview/

Struts:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ko...0spt/overview/

Just an FYI to the OP- If I had all the money in the world I would not put a tubular Kmember onto a 3rd gen- Unless it was a track only designated Drag car. Impact reasons being the first, but not the only- they pretty much are usless. You are lowering safety, lowering sprung weight, and increasing positive roll weight. With absolutely the same identical suspension geometry- its a waste of money.

Want the best sprung weight savings? Lexan rear glass hatch and fiberglass hood Start with those- they are polar, and they are high in cg. But if you reduce sprung weight, for every 5 lbs you take off you need to take off 1 lb of unsprung weight or your ride quality goes to crap.