I am doing a complete ignition re-build .
Here is what I have now

MSD gm blaster coil - on the car now
Accel cap and rotor
Accel 8mm spiral core wries -on the car now

Here is what I know I need -

ignition control module
pickup coil

Ok guys , dont laugh at this question but , do I need a new distributor shaft ? Im sure they wear but have never heard of any of you guys changing them .

What am I missing guys ?
(besides the 6AL box )
Thanx as always !!!

 

ive heard of distributor gear wearing out.... does the shaft wear out too????

and wayne didya get that shiftkit fit in

 

Yeah , I bet thats what I need is a new gear with it ?

Yeah , I have the shiftkit in ! I LOVE IT !!! It barks second !

 

Any other parts I need guys ? .


.......Anyone have a Discounts Auto parts near them ? ....Well they are changing to Advance Auto Parts . I went in there today and they had alot of their new stock in there .SOME NICE STUFF guys .Blue Streak caps and rotors .A better selections of Accel ignition wires .

 

Wayne,
Quality parts under the cap are the way to go.
I have AC Delco stuff.
It works perfect.
I got them at a fair price & it works right.
When you remove your distributor, MAKE SURE the BALANCER MARK is AT 10*. AD MAKE SURE you are at TOP DEAD CENTER.
Out comes the patient.
Above gear, is a small roll pin, Knock that out.
Slip apart shaft and housing.
Spray brake cleaner down the shaft. Many times.
Let it drain.
Get some 200+ sand paper. Spray some brake cleaner on the sand paper, start to polish and sand smooth the shaft. If you feel a nick, attack the nick with a metal file. Wipe down with fresh towel & brake cleaner. Attack until "spotless". You'll know when to stop.
Grease the shaft with a FILM of axle grease. Insert shaft into housing, hand spin until spins freely and smoothly. Keep working it, it will.
Rotor, bend the tips, until you see "zero" clerance. Use your dremel on the tips to "polish" them, BUT DON'T REMOVE METAL, just clean.
You have already changed the shaft coil, correct?
Slip everything back together, spinning shaft in housing and checking all tolerances with eye. They should be "zero" tolerance, but not touching.
Should feel smooth, insert the roll pin back into housing & you're done.
Get a small block Chevy distributor gasket, for your distb. Apply a FILM of Black RTV both sides, slip on that o ring thing on shaft, seat it.
You have already cleaned the intake area and you let it "air dry for many many minutes".
Ready to insert the distributor?
The block for wires point to the passenger side. Make sure the rotor is pointed toward the PASSENGER SIDE FRONT CYLINDER CORNER.
IF NOT, pull back out, twist rotor ever so slightly, drop back in again.
When you have that one pointing at the one corner detail correct, slip back in the bolt to hold down this distb. you just rebuilt.
If your car ran great before it'll start right up. Adjust your timing by ear.
Listen to how smooth the engine becomes as you twist distb one direction to the other.
When it sounds "just right" back distb by 1/4"-1/2".
Tighten down. go for a ride, up a SLIGHT INCLINE.
IF YOU GO UP INCLINE NO PING, you got the setting just right!
Drive back home, tighten down better.
Close hood.
Difficulty?
YES, getting the bolt back into the block to hold down distributor.
Rest is really pretty simple.
IF you also set the engine at the 10* Top Dead Center point before you remove your distributor.
That details solves lots of later on problems.

 

Karl , GREAT MAN , THANX ALOT I like that real good detail ya gave me on this ! ....I think my distributor shaft is the original one on the car .Do people change these , or just the gear at the end ? Im going to print this off !

 

I recall housings going bad. Lord knows how they do but...
IF ya can, go find a free one in the yards and check it out. Or find a parts store with a rebuilt one already and check that one out.
You'll see what I mean, easier.

 

When I rebuilt my distributor, I didn't inquire about a shaft, just a gear. The dealer wanted $40 for the gear. I looked at mine, it looked alright, so I didn't bother. You could always try to go to the junkyards, and see if you can find a wrecked low-mileage 2.8/3.1 f-body, and nab it's distributor.

Think about the Holley spark module, part #891-103, Summit part # HLY-891-103. It's the same price ($60) as an aftermarket "stock" module, and I think the GM stock module is also $60.

You can't buy a performance pick-up coil; there's nothing you can make performance about 'em. All they do is sense the magnetic pulses caused by the reluctor spinning in the center of the 6 pole pieces. So if you make the clearance between the disc and pole pieces as tight as possible (I used a valve adjusting feeler tool, with all the swing-out blades of different thicknesses), the stronger the magnetic pulse will be to the pick-up coil. Mine cost $12 at the local Pep Boys.

You can "add" extra heat-sink-grease for the module by going to Radio Shack (or any other electronics store). I think the Shack wants $3 for their tiny little tube of lithium heat sink grease. Make sure you put this stuff between the module and the distributor base. I wiped the old grease out. I also scuffed the plate of the module with a fine grade paper, in the hopes that it would "hold" some of the grease. Don't use a coarse thick sandpaper; you'll reduce the metal-to-metal heat transfer area. I've seen some distributors use clear silicone grease; I wouldn't use that stuff, stick with the "real" white heat sink grease. (Same stuff used in computers & the likes.)

And then there's the classic "Karl vs Tom" debate, , the 1" inside diameter O-ring. Whether you use a new o-ring or use the SBC distrib gasket, remove your old o-ring, and pry it "backwards".. you should see many little cracks. Those cracks cause the common "looks like a rear main seal" oil leak.

You might want to bring the #1 cylinder (front passenger side, NOT front driver's side) up to TDC. This'll help you align everything later.

Did you guys know it doesn't matter how you aim the distributor housingin the engine, as long as you get the relationship between the #1 cylinder TDC and #1 cap terminal correct? https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=60772

 

THANX Tom !