My new Mark Williams 12 bolt has the standard attachments (shock mounts, control arm brackets, spring pocket); otherwise it is bare.
I've ordered Spohn's aftermarket sway bar mounts: http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-GM-F-Body/Suspension/Sway-Bars-Accessories/Aftermarket-Rear-Sway-Bar-Installation-Kit.html
This should give me some adjust-ability with the sway bar. I'll re-use my 24mm bar for now - there's only two months of good weather left.
I bolted the jegster bracket onto the PHB mount and ground away the powder coating where I'll be welding. I decided not to use the bar brace to the axle tube, so I can adjust those sway bar mounts more easily, and I can weld the bracket really good since the axle assembly is out of the car.
Pic of the jester bracket bolted and ready to weld.

 

It's got Big Bearing Ford housing ends, set-20 bearings, 1/2" studs, and Wilwood dual piston floating rear parking brake kit - D-154.
30 spline Detroit Truetrac Diff.

 

Looks beefy, great selection of parts, I bet quite a bit of dilegent homework went into that. Let us know how it performs..

 

Looks beautiful Brian.

I never had any issues with my Jegs unit, I did the same exact thing welding it all around and no support tube. Mine actually never came with a support tube like the new kit does.

Those big Ford bearings last forever. I just replaced mine on my 5000lb truck with the Currie rear end for the first time in 17 years. This truck sees lots of abuse as well as a LOT of high speed cruising. been over a buck 50 in it a half dozen times. You have yourself a bulletproof rearend. The nice thing about a beefy 12bolt compared to a 9" is the 12bolt robs less HP because the pinion rides higher on the ring gear- then of course MW gears are so much stronger then GM design so quicker wear is not an issue.

Looking great my friend!!!

 

ps- just use black epoxy paint after you weld. It will last darn near as long as the powder coating and blends just fine. I jsut spray it on direct without any primer or anything. Just wire brush the welds and spray away.

 

Thanks Dean, when I talked with them I asked for "max side load protection." I don't shock load my drivetrain - the 217k 9bolt is still in for a couple more days.
I used POR-15 - starter kit (cleaner, prep, and POR-15, $30 from Jegs). I taped off the LCARB brackets and painted them. I weld them in with the axle out of car. I was careful to make sure they are equal on both sides. I have Kenny Brown adj LCA's if there's a problem. As you can see, I have the bare metal edges ready for weld.
Had to make my own brake line brackets - angle iron. The Goodridge lines need .630 opening so I used a 5/8 drill bit (.625) and filed the remaining .005 in order to clip them in. The 3" u-clamps are big causing me to struggle with bending the brake lines and keeping them off the tube so that I have sway bar clamp adjustment.
The powder coat is soft - I'm painting the tube where the clamps go with POR-15 as well cause it's harder.

 

Looks great. Did the Wilwoods go together ok?

 

Yes, slight rub so I ground down the caliper - not much. I plan on D52 later on anyway. This will get me up and running, then I'll find someone to make a bracket for the D52.
9bolt is out. 12bolt should go in tomorrow.

 

Looking great, Just a friendly reminder to zip tie those brake lines so they don;t wobble or they will spring a leak.

 

Fought with the shanks from the old LCA's and PHB. I won, but it took too much time. Replaced them with Del-Sphere ends and the associated spacers are in the plastic baggie. I guess I'll learn to loosen the adjustment nuts every couple of years or so.
Also, picked up Neapco 3r x 1350 adapter joint (2-1153) for the drive-shaft. It was so long ago when I bought it; it's a 3.5" aluminum unit I picked up from TPIS back when I lived in Mpls. I'll replace it next year sometime.