sparky550

So my 84 berlinetta didn't come with a rear sway bar at all factory so I of course want to add one when I do my four wheel disc conversion while dropping in the fresh 9 bolt I have. What all would I need in order to make it look like its a factory seat bar. I already have a sway bar and end links from my 9 bolt.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

The rear should have the bushings and U-bolts on it. Otherwise you'll need those.

On the chassis, you need the brackets the end links go to. They're little L-shaped pieces of metal that bolt in with 2 bolts, in the wheel well, in front of and above the axle.

naf

iTrader: (7)

The brackets are available through TDS or a JY near you.

if you add anything larger than the smallest sway bar to the rear, you'll need to upgrade the coat hanger up front. These cars already come pre-disposed with a tendency for the rear to want to be in front.

sparky550

I have a 36mm front sway bar and my rear is a 24mm i believe. parts were sourced from a 1le car

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

The 36mm front and 24mm reear is the correct combination. As mentioned I have the brackets you'll need to attach the sway bar to the body. Link attached. I also have the 36mm and 24mm greasable bushing kits in poly-graphite black or polyurethane red.

http://www.top-downsolutions.com/cha...mount-brackets

Lon Salgren

sparky550

thanks! ill take a look. was looking more for factory mounts as i could fab my own if im going after market. How are the reasonable bushings? i heard the grease attracts sand.

AlkyIROC

Poly bushing. Don't compress and dry out like rubber ones.

sparky550

I'm just wonder in poly vs grease able poly. I'm very interested in those mounts do they come with hardware?

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

From what I understand polys can be noisy and need to be greased periodically. Poly bushings typically include grease for the install but without bushing you'll have to take it apart.
Not all kits provide grease fittings and even less are shaped inside to allow it to get into the bushing. The mounts in the link appear stock and you'll need the bolts. It says bolts are included.

FWIW, Berlinettas also don't have a couple of triangle braces by the front frame rails. Most Thirdgens have four, Berlinettas typically only have two. You might also want to pick up a wonder bar while you're installing the front sway bar. One should have been on the 1LE if you still have access to it. The brackets also for that matter.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Best advise you've gotten all month !!!!


Here's a pic so you know what he means.... The larger one gets mounted under the drivers side 'battery tray". The other 2 attach each frame rail to the crssmember.



Installing these things will SIGNIFICANTLY reduce the chance that your drivers frame rail will fail/rip. Early Coupe and Berlinettas didn't get these braces and MANY frame rails have been ripped apart by the steering box as a result.

Here's what happens to cars without them: ( This car was an 85 Berlinetta )


The wonder bar Scorpner mentioned is also a BIG help in adding strength to the frame rails.

sparky550

i have the wonder bar. got the mount from the 1le car however as i dont have direct access to it. I did not get hardware or the triangle any idea where i could possibly get those? or any good pictures of them installed that i could possibly use to make my own?

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Here's a pic showing how they get mounted:



Don't bother wasting time trying to fab them. You can find the cross-member and battery tray braces on any 86+ thirdgen. There is also a "rod" type brace you can add that's usually found on IROCS,..... it's mounted to the pass side hood hinge on 1 end and the firewall cowl on the other end. Not to significant - but ever little bit helps !!

P.S. If you are swapping to a 34/24 sway bar set-up,...... I'd recomend swapping the F/R springs soon too. BZY and NNL sound about right to me !!

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

Good deal on the wonder bar sparky550.

Excellent info John.

sparky550

Currently have the sway bars, a full 9 bolt rear end with all new breaks, sub frame connectors, a four bolt main 350 that I stripped to the block, a set of 16 inch iroc rims freshly blasted I need tires for and to to it off a front end rebuild. Going to be a huge project but worth it to have a digital dash and iroc running gear. Plus the car will be a huge sleeper. Hoping for 300 wheel horses

sparky550

So a quick up date after crawling under the car in the cold I found a heart breaking reality. My frame had cracked and was welded. I'm not sure if it was done at the dealership or separately. The crack was minor id say less than 3 inches long and to top it off i have none of the factory braces. I have the ability to add some and have sourced a set of all three, but im wondering is it worth building this car? With the crack in the frame am i better off buying a new car to drop all of my parts into. Aside from the crack my car has very little rust and only 100xxx original kilometers. My parts guy has a very clean 91 v8 rs with higher km's but ill be replacing the whole drive train. In your guys opinion what is my best option? Grinding the existing weld adding a think plate or buying a new car?

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

I'm going to say that's a personal decision. It should have at least two of four braces from the factory, so something was modified. Check to see if any of the panels are different colors near the edges or from the insides, or have parts markings on them. Could have been tweaked in an accident and/or maybe the weld repairs wouldn't allow the bracing to be reinstalled?

sparky550

welds shouldn't have been an issue and if the frame is out its very very close to perfect

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Because the 82-85? Coupes/Berlinettas didn't get these braces from the factory,.... there are MANY of them driving around these days with exactly the same crack in the drivers side frame rail. ( sometimes the cracks also appeared on the lower drivers side radiator support too )

I would not give up on the car if there is a crack. MAYBE if there was a lot of rust/rot in that spot too,... but not if it's just got a crack. My advise is to get a pair of the cross-member-to-frame braces and attempt to install them. ( might need to grind the welding repair in order for the braces to fit properly. )

This is the same car as shown above,... I just welded the cracks and installed the braces. If the braces still line up properly to the mounting holes than the frame rail can't be "off" too far and installing the brace will help eliminate the steering box stress that caused the frame rail to crack in the first place.

I'd at least try to braces first before giving up on the car !

sparky550

Good to know. I can make most anything work with my grinder and welder. And the car is low km rust free

Slowbalt

Sorry to revive an old thread. Does anyone know of anyone still making aftermarket rear sway bar body mounts or have a pair of them they want to sell? My Sport Coupe didn't come with a rear sway bar so I am trying to find a way to upgrade. Thanks!

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

I normally stock them, but I ran out. I'll have my next batch in stock in roughly 2 weeks when I get my next batch of steering braces powder coated. In the morning I'll reactivate the rear end link mount brackets so customers can pre-order them.

Lon Salgren

Slowbalt

Thanks! Please let me know when you add them! I plan on picking up front and rear sway bars and a wonderbar from you as well!

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

I have just enabled the TDS 207190 REAR SWAY BAR MOUNT BRACKETS. Any orders placed will be updated with the status of the parts. Estimated in stock by 6/5.

Lon Salgren