gta_knight

This is something ive never touched on with my car. However im wondering if something is wrong with mine because ive replaced ALL of the suspension now and i still get wheel hop when im nearing or on full lock and turning around, i can hear the tyres scrub scub scubbing and sometimes i got like popping noise.

Ive fitted all new Moog steering linkages, idler arm, new ball joints, new struts, Eibach springs etc etc etc.

Im not even sure how to do the castor and camber

Amillionoh7

iTrader: (1)

Caster and camber are adjusted through strut mount. but due to the way a McPherson strut is they don't get much camber gain when turning. so these cars like a lot of caster. I have changed mine a million times. (I'm a alignment/suspension tech) and mine does same thing since switching to vette rims (much wider)

But regardless if you changed everything it needs a alighnment

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

These cars always do that; it's inherent in their design.

In fact, the better the condition of the bushings etc., the worse it gets, because the poor geometry is held more solidly in place.

Best alignment specs are around ½ - 1° NEGATIVE camber (tires slightly closer together at the top than the bottom) with the curb side having slightly more, up to around a ½° split; and about 4 - 4½° POSITIVE caster (top of strut rearward) again with about ½° more on the curb side. Be aware however that the more positive caster you dial in, the more the tires will tend to rub on the fender between the tire and the door; the outer edge of each tire will rub on hard (full-lock) turns in their direction. Which gives you yet another reason to avoid full-lock turns as much as possible.

Amillionoh7

iTrader: (1)

My setup rite now is camber L-1.0_R-1.2 Caster L4.8_R5.2 Toe L-.05_R-.05

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

That's almost exactly the setup I am describing; should be working out pretty well. Of course in the US, the curb side is the right, so on this side of the pond, you want those to be slightly higher than the left. In the UK you'd want the left side to have the higher #s.

I forgot to mention the toe: My preference is IN, about 1/32" (.030") or so on both sides. Your measurements are .050", not too terribly different. In a metric place you could make it 1mm and call it good. (.03937")

gta_knight

So 3rd gens done this from new then ? like i say ive replaced just about everything under the car and i had the tracking done which was set dead level by the guy and it made it drive and and straight.

Can i take the car to a garage with a laser aligmment setup and give them those specs to set up or should i just leave it as it is now as it only does it when turning hard ?

Amillionoh7

iTrader: (1)

just about any car/truck with similar front end will do it. every chevy and ford truck from 80's does it

gta_knight

Would love some modern steering, with electric power steering..... the crappy van i use for work every day rides and steers nicer than my expensive Trans Am. lol, its just not right is it

Amillionoh7

iTrader: (1)

Yea until it breaks. I replace them all day in the f150's at 1500$ a piece plus 400 labor

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Yes absolutely.

A lot of em won't do it though; they'll punch your car into their computer and whatever that says, is all they'll do. Problem being, the stock specs for our cars SUCK BLUE DONKEY you-know-whats; they call for POSITIVE camber (tires farther apart at the top than at the road) which makes them EEEEET tires, and only a little bit of caster which makes the car have a vague center, wander real bad, and have poor grip in turns.

But if you can find one that will set it up like you tell em you want it, then HELL YEAH, do it. You won't BELIEVE how much better it is than the stock specs. And just as great, how much longer your tires will last.

gta_knight

Im in England so im pretty sure they wont have Pontiac in their system, lol. Ive been looking at my wheels in the garage today and im sure they are pointing inwards a little. Too much negative camber i think.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Consider a Wonderbar, if you haven't already.

The following is from How to Tune and Modify your 1982-1998 Camaro by Jason Scott:

"The problem stems from high forces transmitted from the steering box to the chassis, especially under low-speed cornering, such as when maneuvering around a shopping mall parking lot. Fat performance tires present a great deal of resistance at low speeds, which imparts considerable stress into the steering system, and ultimately attempts to rip the steering box from its mounting surface--especially during "full-lock" turns, where steering torque is greatest. Over time, these forces weaken the chassis surface around the steering box and can result in torn metal.

"Whether the chassis is weakened or torn at the steering box, the result is the same--steering actions are delayed while the chassis flexes, leading to unresponsive and erratic steering. Ironically, though the damage stems from low-speed steering, the resulting problem is far more serious at high speeds than low ones.

"It is possible to repair the damaged area, though the best solution is to avoid the problem in the first place by installing a brace [a wonderbar] that reinforces the steering box mounting area."

JamesC

gta_knight

Ive had a wonderbar fitted for years, got it off a Camaro. I don't why firebirds didn't have an option to have one ?

It made the steering feel more direct after I fitted it from what I remember. If the wheel scrubbing / hopping thing is fairly common place I might just leave it alone then